Cylinder Head Removal & Replacement

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by 5spd GT, Apr 8, 2005.

  1. The following is from Jrichker:nice:

    Cylinder Head Removal & Replacement

    Plan on 3 days to do the job if you haven't done it before.

    Day one gets the heads off in 4-6 hours. Remove the A/C compressor mount bolts and move the compressor out of the way. The A/C compressor swings out of the way without disconnecting any of the lines or losing any refrigerant. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them.

    Day two gets all the gasket surfaces scraped off extra clean and the heads dropped off at the machine shop if you are going to have them reconditioned. Time here is another 4-6 hours. Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.

    Day three starts when you get the heads back from the machine shop. This is the time to pick up all the little odd pieces you found needing replacement on your day two inspection/cleanup. Plan on 6-8 hours to reinstall the heads and reconnect everything. Plan on an additional 2 hours to troubleshoot/adjust everything.

    Now for some practical tips:

    Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Make a scribe mark on the distributor base and engine block. Now you can pull the distributor out. When you re-install the distributor back in the engine, make sure you are still on TDC compression for #1 and then line up the scribe mark on the distributor and engine. You will be very close to where the engine was timed when you took out the distributor.

    You'll need new head bolts - get ARP bolts ($40) or studs ($93, maybe more). All the bolts get antiseize under the bolt heads, and everything but the short head bolts get it on the threads. You need Teflon pipe dope or ARP sealant to coat the threads of the short head bolts. The short bolts go into the water jacket and will seep coolant if you don't use the sealant.

    Note: The ARP cylinder head bolts have a radius under the bolt head. The washer has a matching relief. Make sure that the bolt head radius mates up to the relief in the washer. If you don’t, the bolts will never torque down properly.

    My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

    When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

    Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

    Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Walla! No leaks and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

    If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together.

    For iron heads, clean the combustion chambers with a wire brush in an air or electric drill. I used a scraper for the pistons. I don't like to use the wire brush on pistons because it will remove metal very easily.

    Change the oil once you get everything back together. Once the engine is up & running, run it for 1-2 hours and change the oil.

    Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern. You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor.

    Consumable parts:
    Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $2.74 per kit. The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

    http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

    Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

    Head gaskets
    upper manifold gasket
    lower manifold gasket set.
    Exhaust manifold gasket set
    Rocker cover gaskets - look for the rubber ones with the steel bushings - Summit has them
    Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
    6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
    2 ft 1/2" heater hose
    1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
    Blue Silicone sealer
    ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
    ARP thread sealer or Teflon pipe dope for the short bolts.
    4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
    4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)

    Machine shop charges will vary - figure $275-$350 to have heads checked for cracks, cleaned, surfaced, valves ground, valve guides reconditioned, valve springs checked and bad springs replaced.

    I do believe that you have now been buried in enough technical detail between 5spd GT and myself that you will have to spend considerable time digging yourself out.:)
     
  2. did you do the head replacement with the engine in the car? if so how did you torque the rocker arms properly? im in the process of buying gt40 heads from smmit racing and was wondering if i could get around without pulling the motor
     
  3. It can all be done with the motor in the car. Put the heads and lower intake back on and re-install the distributor in the correct position then either turn the motor over by hand or have a friend bump it with the key to move the rockers in to the appropriate position to adjust them.
     

  4. You didn't say what year car this was or make mention of any modifications on the engine.
    Do you live in an area that does smog inspections? This will have limitations on what you can and cannot do and pass inspection
    The lack of this information severely limits the accuracy of any information that we may try to give you.

    Replacing the heads and using the stock intake manifold isn't going to give you much gain. If you are working on an EFI car, you need the 1995-2001 Explorer intake manifold. to match the heads.
    If you are working on a Speed Density car 86-89, you may find it necessary to do a Mass Air conversion.
    If you are working on an 89-93, you may also want to swap the stock MAF for a larger one.
    If it is a carb car, someone else will have to add their recommendations.

    Notice that there is no mention of pulling the engine in the tech note below.

    Cylinder head removal & replacement

    Revised 25-Aug-2014 to update parts list

    Plan on 3 days to do the job if you haven't done it before.

    Day one gets the heads off in 4-6 hours. Remove the A/C compressor mount bolts and move the compressor out of the way. The A/C compressor swings out of the way without disconnecting any of the lines or losing any refrigerant. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them. If you have a digital camera, take several pictures.

    Day two gets all the gasket surfaces scraped off extra clean and the heads dropped off at the machine shop if you are going to have them reconditioned. Time here is another 4-6 hours. Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.

    Day three starts when you get the heads back from the machine shop. This is the time to pick up all the little odd pieces you found needing replacement on your day two inspection/cleanup. Plan on 6-8 hours to reinstall the heads and reconnect everything. Plan on an additional 2 hours to troubleshoot/adjust everything.

    Now for some practical tips:

    Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern.

    Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
    FordIntakeTorqueSequence.gif

    The bolts are torqued down in a 3 step process.
    Step 1 8 ft/lbs
    Step 2 16 ft/lbs
    Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs

    You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor. Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Put some motor oil on them when you put the line back together.

    Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.
    Put some cardboard in the lifter valley to help catch the gasket scrapings. Have a shop vacuum handy to suck up the scrapings and any coolant that leaked into the lifter valley.

    Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out. Be sure to put a rag or cap in the block where you removed the distributor. It will save you trouble if something falls into the empty distributor hole.

    My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

    When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

    Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

    Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Whoopee! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

    Get a tube of anti-seize and coat all the bolt threads and under the bolt heads. That will help insure even torque when you tighten the manifold bolts. Plan on re-torqueing them after a week’s worth of driving

    The cylinder head bolts are reusable, but some new ARP bolts are a better plan.
    Caution!!! Be aware that the ARP bolts have a radiused shank under the bolt head. The ARP washers have a matching radius machined into them. Be sure that the machined radius of the washer is fitted next to the machined radius on the ARP bolt heads. Forget this little fact and you will never get the head bolts to torque down properly.

    Coat the underside of all bolt heads with anti seize and the threads of the long bolts. The short bolts thread directly into the water jacket and need a different treatment. Use Teflon Pipe dope on the threads of the short head bolts. It will prevent any coolant seepage from around the threads. You can get the Teflon pipe dope from the hardware stores, Home Depot or Lowes.

    Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3-$4 per kit. The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( BWD - Home ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

    Parts Plus - Premium Auto Parts & Accessories or Auto Value / Bumper to Bumper Quality Parts & Service - Home of the Aftermarket Auto Parts Alliance Group or Tires, Auto Parts Stores, Brakes & Automotive Parts | Pep Boys or Federated Auto Parts - Automotive Aftermarket

    Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

    Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.

    Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole,
    crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer
    on the engine block.

    The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor
    to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

    Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing. If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.

    At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car
    runs best. Don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT jumper connector when you set the timing, and plug it back
    in when you finish.

    The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
    Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

    attachment.php?attachmentid=51122&d=1183977187.gif

    Consumable items:
    head gaskets or head gasket kit
    Rocker cover gaskets
    Upper manifold gasket
    Fel Pro 1250 or equal lower manifold gasket set.
    Exhaust manifold gaskets.
    Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
    6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
    2 ft 1/2" heater hose
    1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
    Blue Silicone sealer
    Spray can weather strip adhesive to hold manifold gaskets in place
    Acetone or MEK to clean gasket surfaces
    1 gallon straight antifreeze (same price as 50/50 mix, but a 90 cent gallon of distilled water makes it 2 gallons at a cheaper price)
    1 gallon distilled water
    ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
    Teflon Pipe dope
    4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
    4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)

    Machine shop charges will vary - figure $275-$350 to have heads checked for cracks, cleaned, surfaced, valves ground, valve guides reconditioned, valve springs checked and bad springs replaced.

    See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info Everyone should bookmark this site.

    Ignition switch wiring
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

    Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

    Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

    Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

    HVAC vacuum diagram
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

    TFI module differences & pin out
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

    Fuse box layout
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
     
    #4 jrichker, Mar 5, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
  5. id like to thank you for giving me the best response i have ever received. as far as the intake and such i have the bbk cold air intake with the 75mm TB to the cobra intake top and bottom ive been thinking about switching to the edelbrok performer top and bottom. in the middle of trying to figure out what cam i want to put in. i see everyone use the E303 cam but im not sure if thats what i want ive been looking at the comp cam XE270HR stage 3 or the trickflow stage 1 off LMR. still dont know what would work best on the SVE heads LMR offers
     
  6. oh and its the 1994 ford mustang gt. i also live in texas but im stationed in New mexico so i can get my car registered in either state im still trying to figuer out what their laws are. im going to a garage this weekend to talk to some of the guys to see what the laws are regarding smog and EGR thats why i havent pulled the trigger on a set of heads yet
     
  7. Another note... if using aluminum heads DO NOT use a torque wrench to torque the intake manifold bolts down!!!! You will strip or damage the threads going to 25 ft/lbs! Lesson I learned maaaany years ago. Just nice and snug with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. If the intake and head mating surfaces are clean and true, the gaskets will still seal just fine. Still hand tighten using above pattern though.
     
  8. do you know if i have to pull the bumper to replace the cam
     
  9. You don't have to but it makes it a bit easier to work in my opinion.