Engine Darn Stock Block Problems - Putting together the peices

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Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
10 Year Member
Dec 30, 2002
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In to see block in two separate pieces:pop:
Almost put it in two pieces. Still surprised this didn't come apart, all of the drivers side main cap stud nuts (except the rear one) were loose when I pulled the pan off. All of the main caps (except the rear one) are cracked where the block split. It looks like the rotating assembly survived so I will at least be able to salvage/sell the rods and pistons.

20191115_104440.jpg


Split the block the whole way back to the rear cam bearing and up into the block a little. I'm thinking the only reason the block didn't split completely in two was because of the thick SFI certified bellhousing the engine was bolted too.

20191115_114850.jpg


Hard to see, but the crack goes past the last drain back hole and up and into the cam bearing hole. You can take a pry bar and spread the block to see the crack better. Not much material holding this thing together.
20191115_114905.jpg
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
10 Year Member
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Just for a little background on this car, my original intention when purchasing this car was to have a running mustang that my girl and I could enjoy while I continued to build my '89 (she's a motorhead also). I had planned on installing a cage, cleaning up some wiring, and just running it the way it was for a year or two before I had the time to swap in a proper block as a foundation for a 600-800 RWHP street/drag vehicle. I wasn't aiming for any particular class to run in, just something I could take to the drag strip a couple times a year and make some runs.

Obviously all that has changed now. My new goal is to be able to fire this thing up by May 2020, with a solid block as a foundation for my future plans. While the motor is out I'm also going to be fixing items under the hood that I would like to address from the previous owners such as the brake line routing, absence of a sealed radiator overflow bottle, electrical harness routing and protection, ect, ect.


At this point I'm looking at and budgeting for:

-Dart SHP based 363 8.2 deck short block (leaning toward a Fordstroker's short block)
-TEA porting of my TW170s to the TEA 205's
-Foxlake porting (or home porting) of my Holley Systemax
-Upgrading my V1 to Si trim
-Possibly reusing my Comp Cam NX282HR-14 and staying hydraulic....
-Megasquirt EFI

Of course there are lots of other bits and pieces that need to be considered, but this is the 1000 foot view so far for a 600RWHP build. This thread is probably going to turn into a progress thread.
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
10 Year Member
Dec 30, 2002
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Cornwall, PA
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Ran across a new Moroso 20516 9" deep road/drag race pan for sale for $200 bucks at mustangs unlimited. Anybody ever run this pan? I'm mainly concerned with ground clearance as I have been looking at the newer billet end 20533.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Can an Si be stretched to 600rwhp?
I always thought you needed to goto a T.

Two project mustangs.
I don't envy you.
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
10 Year Member
Dec 30, 2002
795
510
134
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Cornwall, PA
www.hoytspot.com
Can an Si be stretched to 600rwhp?
I always thought you needed to goto a T.

Two project mustangs.
I don't envy you.
I did talk to a couple guys with an Si and vortech themselves, and they all confirmed 600 rwhp should be no problem. It is approaching its limit at that point, but two of the guys were over 650 with a setup comparable to what I'm looking to do. Vortech rates the Si HD v1 to 775 HP. Mine isn't the HD gearbox version as its from the 90s, but they still rate the non-HD Si to around 700 hp and 52000 rpm. The future plan will be to upgrade or go turbo.

And yes, having two projects right now is not ideal to say the least.
 
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7991LXnSHO

5 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
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I was also thinking “JB Weld should fix that.” But Mike put it better.
Glad you and the bodywork do not have holes from blown chunks.