I had thought about doing that, almost as a trophy piece. It's looking more and more like I'd have to weld this together to even be able to do that. I can't believe this didn't come apart.
Progress Thread Darn Stock Block Problems - Getting the Engine Together
- Thread starter Hoytster
- Start date
I had thought about doing that, almost as a trophy piece. It's looking more and more like I'd have to weld this together to even be able to do that. I can't believe this didn't come apart.
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In to see block in two separate pieces
Almost put it in two pieces. Still surprised this didn't come apart, all of the drivers side main cap stud nuts (except the rear one) were loose when I pulled the pan off. All of the main caps (except the rear one) are cracked where the block split. It looks like the rotating assembly survived so I will at least be able to salvage/sell the rods and pistons.
Split the block the whole way back to the rear cam bearing and up into the block a little. I'm thinking the only reason the block didn't split completely in two was because of the thick SFI certified bellhousing the engine was bolted too.
Hard to see, but the crack goes past the last drain back hole and up and into the cam bearing hole. You can take a pry bar and spread the block to see the crack better. Not much material holding this thing together.
Just for a little background on this car, my original intention when purchasing this car was to have a running mustang that my girl and I could enjoy while I continued to build my '89 (she's a motorhead also). I had planned on installing a cage, cleaning up some wiring, and just running it the way it was for a year or two before I had the time to swap in a proper block as a foundation for a 600-800 RWHP street/drag vehicle. I wasn't aiming for any particular class to run in, just something I could take to the drag strip a couple times a year and make some runs.
Obviously all that has changed now. My new goal is to be able to fire this thing up by May 2020, with a solid block as a foundation for my future plans. While the motor is out I'm also going to be fixing items under the hood that I would like to address from the previous owners such as the brake line routing, absence of a sealed radiator overflow bottle, electrical harness routing and protection, ect, ect.
At this point I'm looking at and budgeting for:
-Dart SHP based 363 8.2 deck short block (leaning toward a Fordstroker's short block)
-TEA porting of my TW170s to the TEA 205's
-Foxlake porting (or home porting) of my Holley Systemax
-Upgrading my V1 to Si trim
-Possibly reusing my Comp Cam NX282HR-14 and staying hydraulic....
-Megasquirt EFI
Of course there are lots of other bits and pieces that need to be considered, but this is the 1000 foot view so far for a 600RWHP build. This thread is probably going to turn into a progress thread.
Obviously all that has changed now. My new goal is to be able to fire this thing up by May 2020, with a solid block as a foundation for my future plans. While the motor is out I'm also going to be fixing items under the hood that I would like to address from the previous owners such as the brake line routing, absence of a sealed radiator overflow bottle, electrical harness routing and protection, ect, ect.
At this point I'm looking at and budgeting for:
-Dart SHP based 363 8.2 deck short block (leaning toward a Fordstroker's short block)
-TEA porting of my TW170s to the TEA 205's
-Foxlake porting (or home porting) of my Holley Systemax
-Upgrading my V1 to Si trim
-Possibly reusing my Comp Cam NX282HR-14 and staying hydraulic....
-Megasquirt EFI
Of course there are lots of other bits and pieces that need to be considered, but this is the 1000 foot view so far for a 600RWHP build. This thread is probably going to turn into a progress thread.
Ran across a new Moroso 20516 9" deep road/drag race pan for sale for $200 bucks at mustangs unlimited. Anybody ever run this pan? I'm mainly concerned with ground clearance as I have been looking at the newer billet end 20533.
I did talk to a couple guys with an Si and vortech themselves, and they all confirmed 600 rwhp should be no problem. It is approaching its limit at that point, but two of the guys were over 650 with a setup comparable to what I'm looking to do. Vortech rates the Si HD v1 to 775 HP. Mine isn't the HD gearbox version as its from the 90s, but they still rate the non-HD Si to around 700 hp and 52000 rpm. The future plan will be to upgrade or go turbo.
And yes, having two projects right now is not ideal to say the least.
I was also thinking “JB Weld should fix that.” But Mike put it better.
Glad you and the bodywork do not have holes from blown chunks.
Glad you and the bodywork do not have holes from blown chunks.
Been working on the car as time allows so this is going to be a string up update posts.
One of the first things I started working on was to re-wire the battery relocation that the previous owner did. He didn't do a horrible job, but he used 2/0 cable, didn't use grommets on the firewall penetrations, and ran the alternator output wiring through the cut off switch. I upgraded both the ground and positive cable to 1/0 welding cable, put in proper firewall grommets, ran 12 gauge cabling back to the cut off switch to disable the exciter on the alternator and properly strapped the cabling. I also ran cabling from the new ECU location to the rear of the car for future PWM control of the fuel pump.
This is the old positive 2/0 cable I pulled from the drivers side. This might explain part of the hard starting issues. Notice the heat marks in the jacketing.
Punched and installed the Moroso through firewall grommets for both the negative and positive battery cables.
One of the first things I started working on was to re-wire the battery relocation that the previous owner did. He didn't do a horrible job, but he used 2/0 cable, didn't use grommets on the firewall penetrations, and ran the alternator output wiring through the cut off switch. I upgraded both the ground and positive cable to 1/0 welding cable, put in proper firewall grommets, ran 12 gauge cabling back to the cut off switch to disable the exciter on the alternator and properly strapped the cabling. I also ran cabling from the new ECU location to the rear of the car for future PWM control of the fuel pump.
This is the old positive 2/0 cable I pulled from the drivers side. This might explain part of the hard starting issues. Notice the heat marks in the jacketing.
Punched and installed the Moroso through firewall grommets for both the negative and positive battery cables.
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I bought this new crimp tool which IMO does a great job of crimping these larger connectors. I used to just crush the connector with my vise but this thing really captures the cable. I really tried to yank it out after crimping but could not get it to budge.
Just a finished cable picture.
Just a finished cable picture.
Installed my new door seals while I had the interior ripped apart.
When the guy originally built this car he spent the time to modify all the wiring harnesses for all the modifications he planned. He did a really nice job and then wrapped everything in electrical tape. Great for appearances, but a PITA to figure out exactly what he did and to unwrap to modify. Since I am switching to Megasquirt, all of the ECU wiring will be eliminated and I get to re-do everything else he did. I'm pretty sure I have 99% of the old wiring figured out at this point but I'm sure there will be some stuff that pops up.
When the guy originally built this car he spent the time to modify all the wiring harnesses for all the modifications he planned. He did a really nice job and then wrapped everything in electrical tape. Great for appearances, but a PITA to figure out exactly what he did and to unwrap to modify. Since I am switching to Megasquirt, all of the ECU wiring will be eliminated and I get to re-do everything else he did. I'm pretty sure I have 99% of the old wiring figured out at this point but I'm sure there will be some stuff that pops up.
Got my MS3 and MS3+ harness to start re-wiring the engine bay. I'm consider myself pretty competent when dealing with this stuff but am sure I will have many questions on this as I move forward since this is the first from scratch megasquirt wiring project I have done.
I am going to be doing coil on plug with this engine. I actually had all the parts laying around. I'm thinking I should be fine with these LS coils for now as my current plans are for ~600rwhp. The cam trigger and harness is for a 96 Explorer (hall effect) and I will be doing a 36-1 trigger wheel. Looking for suggestions on how best to do the 36-1 trigger wheel (I will be buying a new HB for my zero balance 363 if that makes any difference).
I am going to be doing coil on plug with this engine. I actually had all the parts laying around. I'm thinking I should be fine with these LS coils for now as my current plans are for ~600rwhp. The cam trigger and harness is for a 96 Explorer (hall effect) and I will be doing a 36-1 trigger wheel. Looking for suggestions on how best to do the 36-1 trigger wheel (I will be buying a new HB for my zero balance 363 if that makes any difference).
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I sent the lower intake from my Systemax II to Tom and Matt Moss for porting. I'm really happy with the results on the lower. I just had them port it to a 1262 gasket and not the 1262R that my heads will be at since this isn't a max effort build at this point (plus it requires welding on the intake to do this). I figure I will see how this intake does and then upgrade down the road if needed when I switch to turbo.
I'm really surprised how the ports from the lower to upper don't align very well. Looks like I have some work to do to get these inline. I'm also going to be porting my upper to a 80MM throttle body opening. The mismatch is about the same on every port:
I'm really surprised how the ports from the lower to upper don't align very well. Looks like I have some work to do to get these inline. I'm also going to be porting my upper to a 80MM throttle body opening. The mismatch is about the same on every port:
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This weeks goal is to finish cleaning up and engine bay and finishing all the touch ups as well as get the UPR K-member installed and squared. I'm going to be sending my V1 to get the Si upgrade something this month also.
Oh, and I'm probably the only person that finds this kinda cool but I discovered this car was built 1 day before Foxbody production ended on 8/25/93. I noticed my VIN sequence was pretty high and the 8/93 build date, so I pulled a Marti report for the car and verified that build date. Nothing like THE last foxbody produced, but still kind of neat in my eyes.
2 Project cars must be painful on the wallet... love what you're doing with this one though and cool that it was almost the last one out there!
