Just a quick write up on how I installed my trans temp gauge and cooler.
Parts:
Guage Install:
Sending Unit Install:
Cooler Install:
Pics:
Bottom Line:
Great Mod to do to your 4R70W or AODE. Took about 5 hours all said and done. Cost was about $210.00 for all the parts listed.
If you are unsure at all about cutting your hard lines to install the sending unit manifold, by all means, take it to a professional.
Cheers.
Parts:
- Autometer Trans Temp Gauge (4357)
- Autometer Steering Column Pod 2 1/16" (10004)
- Autometer Trans Temp Manifold - 5/16" (2287)
- B&M SuperCooler Kit (70264)
- 2 - Buss Fuse Tap - ATM Type fuses (not included)
- Buss Fuse - 5 amp
- Buss Fuse - 15 amp
- 3 - Quarts of Mercron V (or same fluid that's in your trans)
Guage Install:
Pretty straight forward....wire up the trans temp gauge with 18 gauge wire, use male spades on the gauge light, use female terminal connectors on all the connections to the gauge. Big time shortcut......to get your gauge light to use the dimmer, tap into fuse 37 in the box with the fuse tap, it's 5 amp. For switched 12V power, tap into fuse 32 in the box with a fuse tap, it's 15amp. Your fuse box cover won't fit over the taps without modification. I just threw it in a drawer. The steering column pod, it's black (can be painted), I chose not to. I like the contrast of the gauge, white on black, versus white on charcoal grey. Use the 3M pro double sided tape to stick it to the column. Feed the wires out the hole below the pod, use a braided sleeve or heat shrink tubing to mask the wires back into the dash under the column. Feed the sender and ground out the firewall in the unused grommet to the left of the master cylinder.
Sending Unit Install:
Here's where a ton of misinformation is at. You do not need a flare tool to do this install. The 1/2" adapter from the gauge fit's this manifold and mount your sending unit into that. Use Teflon tape on all the connections. Pick a suitable location on the hot line. (2004 - it's the bottom line to the radiator and trans....The top line on the radiator and trans is the return line). I chose to put it right in front of the crank. The Autometer manifold fits 5/16" lines and has compression fittings. The sending unit should face down towards the ground. Installation is a snap. Measure the assembled manifold, mark your sender line a half an inch short of your measurement. Cut the line on your marks with a small tubing cutter (like copper tubing) . Cap the trans side line off with a rubber nipple, tape, or something (you will lose trans fluid if you don't). Use some sandpaper or emery cloth to clean off the black paint about a half an inch on each side making sure you de-bur the lines if your cut was less than perfect, that way the compression fittings are sure to seal on the line and not the paint. Install, tighten down until the fittings are flared and snug. At this point, start up the car and check for leaks before you move onto the cooler install. Once satisfied, no leaks, tie wrap the manifold block to the return line and connect your sending unit wire to the gauge. Connect the ground somewhere close, I used chassis ground by the battery. If you use 3/8" barb fittings on the manifold and connect both ends to rubber hose (ie you don't have it connected to the hard lines) - You will have to run your ground to the manifold - clean off the anodized paint on the manifold block, and use a self tapping screw to secure the ground wire using one of the two pass-thru holes in the block.
Cooler Install:
B&M Kit has everything you need, unless you want to use 1/4" couplings and 3/8" hose barbs like other installs that have been done. You can search for tranny cooler and find the others pretty easily. I chose to install by bypassing the radiator all together, you could run in series, and just use the return port and line to hook the cooler to. I removed the return and sender lines from the radiator and plugged it with 1/4" NPT hex plugs. I chose to use the supplied hose and clamp to the stock line fittings. Certainly you could cut the hard lines and flare them, then clamp to them, but if you cut them before they reach the radiator, they are real flimsy and would require a bracket or something to hold them up. Route your hoses around the radiator to the front, connect to the cooler, clamp down good, and mount it to the driverside member support using four self tapping sheet metal screws. The B&M fits perfectly between the radiator and lines running across. I would also suggest that you use the rubber cushions and mount them on the top of the cooler, so if it bounces off the radiator, it does no damage. Note: On plugging the sending port on the radiator, if you don't use teflon tape or sealant, the fluid that's in there is gonna come out the bottom port, especially when your driving. I thought it was funny how much fluid is in there even after it stops dripping.
Don't forget to replace any trans fluid you dropped on the ground.
Pics:
Bottom Line:
O/D locked out, 90 deg F outdoor temp., hard driving. My sender is on the Hot line.
Trans Temp Before - 220-250+ deg F.
Trans Temp After - 180-210 deg F.
Great Mod to do to your 4R70W or AODE. Took about 5 hours all said and done. Cost was about $210.00 for all the parts listed.
If you are unsure at all about cutting your hard lines to install the sending unit manifold, by all means, take it to a professional.
Cheers.
