Dies when put into gear

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by t_chelle16, May 16, 2007.

  1. have you checked for excessive play in the distributor shaft yet? the more you describe the problems the more it sounds like a worn dizzy to me now. it only takes a couple minutes to check it, just pull the distributor cap and grab the rotor and wiggle it, if it feels loose that's your culprit.
  2. No, I haven't had a chance. I will this weekend, though.

  3. first of all holy ***** ! I'm glad you stuck with it. I just recently got my 68 thats set up pretty much like yours, 289, performer intake, and it took some ironing out.

    I also had problems with hesitation, but my solution was fixed at the carb dimantle and re-assembly.

    ALthough I have a 570 holly, I'm assuming that your's also has a fast choke like mine, i push the gas, set the choke, let off of the gas and fire it up. Then when you hit the gas, its the norm for it to drop, but you should try to set your idle screw a little higher.

    of course after i put in an inline fabric filter it ran fine (those holly's are to f'n touchy)

    i think you said it somewhere, but just be sure your not sucking air between your carb and intake either.

    I hope to god you get it running, mine also gets to 55 quick:p although 3 days after i got it, i collapsed a lifter :mad: (ran about 8k ...oops)

    keep plugin away, your almost there!!!!!!
  4. ok, well let us know how that is, and we can go from there if need be.
  5. As previously mentioned, the throttle return spring needs to be hooked up differently.

    Vacumn leaks are a real pain. It looks like you are running two spacer plates under the carb, are they needed? I can only see two gaskets, is there a gasket between the spacer plates? If you have the clearance, I would dump the spacer(s), and try a new gasket under the carb. The intake looks fairly new, double check the back of the manifold, (using a small mirror) to see if that rear gasket is in place, or if there was enough sealer back there to squeeze out and make a good seal. Most people get the front done properly, as they can easily see it when they put the intake on, but the back is much harder while doing an intake in the car.

    The choke ground probably needs a better hook up too. It needs to have a good clean contact, attaching it to the carb, on top of the plating isn't the best. I'm sure there is another spot you can run it to.

    Raising the idle is not the solution, there is still something wrong. The car in gear should idle near 600 or so. Raising the idle to 900-1000 in gear is too high and is a band-aid solution...

    How much adjusting to the mixtures did you do on the carb, most of the time the carbs are pretty close out of the box for a near stock setup.

    just my two cents on the matter.....
  6. Just a little update.

    The car is running great. All the problems seem to have worked their way out. Maybe everything just needed time to settle in (I'm pretty sure my initial problems with dieing was vacuum leaks in the intake and/or carb). The idle is pretty consistent now when I first start it up and I can put it into gear after letting it warm up for around 30 sec w/o any problems (and I never got around to bumping it up any). And yesterday I got stopped at the light a block from where I work (ie the engine wasn't fully warmed up yet) and sat there w/o my foot even touching the gas and it idled fine. And I let my dad drive it to work the other day and he didn't have any problems either.

    Oh and I checked the distributer rotor and it felt fine.
    YAY! :D

    My biggest problem now is the engine paint is still brown even though dad told me it would turn black after I drove it a while. :mad:

  7. hooooooooooorrrraaaaaaaaayyyyyyyy, i think naming it murphy helped