Differences in LCA's b/t Steeda, MAC, Hotchkis, etc... LCA's?

elite130

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Dec 7, 2005
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Denver, CO
I had Steeda Aluminum LCA's on my 98 v6 and loved them. I left them on the car when I sold it. I've been looking at getting a new set of LCA's (non-adjustable) for the GT. When looking at the Steeda, MAC, Hotchkis, etc... LCA's, they all look the exact same. My question is...What is the differences in the bushings between all of them? Is one better than the other. I will be using them only on the street and often carving through the mountains.

Thanks for the help.
 
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I say MM. Why? Because thats what I have of course :)

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Nice to see you around Tom :)
 

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Here's what I've gathered so far:

1. The stock control arms flex under hard launches, which can cause wheel hop. If you peel out and it sounds like a rapid sequence of chirps, you have wheel hop.
2. The stock rubber bushings flex and compress a lot, allowing the arm to twist a little. This is by design.
3. Polyurethane bushings are hard and barely flex. They will allow up/down movement of the arm and very minimal twist. This is good in keeping the axle in place, but is hard on the chassis.
4. Spherical bearings are solid and do not compress. They allow full up/down and twisting movement. They do not absorb vibration or noise. Some say the ride is noisy. Some say they didn't notice a change.
5. Some control arms have polyurethane bushings on both ends. These (I think) are best for the drag racer since the flexing of the control arm is the main concern. The axle can move up/down and very minimal side/side.
6. Some control arms have spherical bearings on both ends. These (I think) are best for the autocrosser since they do a better job at keeping the wheels planted on hard cornering. (I'm still not clear on how that works).
7. Some control arms have one of each. Maximum Motorsports and Pro3i have the spherical bearing at the chassis and the polyurethane bushing at the axle. Global West and UPR have it the other way around. (I'm not sure which one is better and why).

Hopefully someone can correct and/or add to this.
 
most control arms are similar in design but without getting to the nuts and bolts of what was used to build them they all do look the same. what gauge material, what material type etc. I think for drag racig they will all be decent. in the turns though the cheaper arms do not do as well.

I have the MM control arms and just love them. I have spherical bearing on both ends. These are actually MM drag arms but work well in the corners too.

these are the best control arms I have ever had.

they are so much better than polyurathane arms in the corners.