Disappointing Times At The Track!!

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 91 quarter horse, Jun 8, 2013.

  1. I took my car to the track last night and I was a bit disappointed. My car has under drive pullies,gt40 heads,typhoon upper/lower intake,75mm throttle body,76mm maf,bbk shorty headers, bassani o/x pipe and bassani "catback" with 3.55 gears and stock t5. With these parts I would of assumed I could pull maybe mid 13s but no where close.

    Weather was mostly sunny in the low 70s with no humidity. This was my first time at the track in a couple years but here are my times. 1st run: 14.94 @94.48 2nd run:[email protected] car has absolutely nothing from 1-3k rpm but after 3k rpm she takes off, this is in all gears. I still have the stock cam. Could the be the problem? Car runs great on the street but just disappointed in my times. I've never worked with "typhoon" intake I w.as thinking it could be my intake, should I get a better one? Someone have any ideas on what it could be?
  2. What were your 60 ft's?...what tires were you using...traction plays a key in 1/4 mile times...but your mph is a little for your mods too...
  3. 60 ft 2.23 1/8 mi [email protected] I was using street tires but traction wasn't an issue just falls flat on its face :/
  4. 3.73 will help get you out of the hole normally you would want lower gears for forced induction to stay in each gear a little longer but I would change your gears and get a a TFS can or even a set of 1.7 RR that will help you get the most out of your can. Hope this helps man don't give up thojgh
  5. I have a set of 3.73 I bought but I found out it had 3.55 after I pulled the cover and didn't think it would make that big of a difference for the work involved. I have thought about cam and rrs but I think now it would be a good investment. I don't think my stock cam is keeping my valves open long enough... I will look into cams, if that doesn't help idk
  6. Well go RR first because they are cheaper and when that doesn't work and you upgrade the can you'll already have 1.7 rocker arms installed .
  7. If traction was the problem your mph would have been higher.

    Cam isn't the issue either.

    I wouldn't go through the trouble till you need a rebuild swapping in 3.73's.

    Try not to be offended, but those parts just sound like you slapped them together.

    The typhoon intake isn't so great, then you have an oversized Throttle body (does the typhoon even have an opening for a 75mm?) and then finish it off with a POS mass air meter.

    I ran 13.6 back in the day with 3.73's and BFG 16 inch drag radials, ud pulley's, 75mm pro m and a k&n filter.
    f8tlfiveo likes this.
  8. Woah man the guy asked for help sorry we all don't have a money tree to put into our car and he didn't say what maf he has it could be a pro m like you love oh so much
  9. Not offended, I got the intake from a friend and I had it ported to accept the 75 mm intake maf is a c&l with matching tube. Heads were rebuilt but no work done as I was on a budget
  10. Also I'm running 17 degrees of timing
  11. Timing seems a little high. Even if the parts are mismatched it should be in the 13's. all the mustangs I owned were all around 14.5 @ 96mph..stock.. Never ran more than 13 degrees timing.. I would pull the timing back before spending any money. And go back to the track.
  12. Why timing so high? Are you running 93 at least?
  13. I concur that going from 355's to 373's is not going to make much difference. I'd do a compression check on the engine, that could be the culprit in the low rpm range, and is cheap and easy to check. The stock cam is not helping your top end, but it sure would not hurt your bottom end, so that is not really the issue. The TB is a little big, but it's also not hurting you that much. The weather sounded near perfect, what altitude are you at? I used a 73mm C&L for many years, and had great success with it, don't let the naysayers get you too bad on that.
  14. Yes running 91/93 octane. After I put all the parts in it was running pretty rough at 12 degrees so we ended up at 17. The compression check is the only thing I haven't done so I'll try to do that today. I bought the bigger tb and stuff like that because I wanted to have the parts for when I rebuild it and have the "right" parts.I'm hoping its something stupid and cheap although I wanted a cam but I would need RRs and a spring kit first, still kind of on a budget...
  15. Your timing might be off like a tooth off maybe?...your car should run at 12 degrees...Vac leak maybe? when you lower the timing you see it? with a vac leak maybe a higher advacne you dont...what does it idle at..My heavy vert went 14.0 with an AOD and 3.55's...bone stock long block and a paper element...Oh and still speed density car...But i think you have high 13's in it just have to fine the problem...
    stangboy likes this.
  16. Could be. When I changed the heads I put #1 piston at top then pulled the distributer. I put it back in the same spot. I should also add that after I did everything my che k engine light cones on about 5k rpm then it goes off after it goes under 5k that's why I was thinking it might have something to do with the intake. I'll try replacing all the vacuum hoses and I did put them all in the right spot. This is my 6th mustang and I know I should be running in the 13s just kinda stumped on this
  17. i really wish people would stop spreading this false info, it is not physically possible for the distributor to be "off a tooth", as long as theres range for adjustment to the setting you want, and your timing light is showing the right value, you're there (assuming no error on the balancer or pointer, which CAN happen). just make sure when you set it, that the pip is out. 10 is stock base, 12-14 usually works well for a BASE setting, once the pip is back in it will add about 10 degrees or so advance at idle (exact number escapes me, but you will see it).

    like mentioned above, check for vac leaks, compression check, even hook your timing light up to each plug wire and make sure theyre firing (ive had a plug wire or two burn by accident with the gt40ps and bbk shortys i run). basically, just run a "stupid check" on everything. check plug gaps, fuel pressure, etc. run the codes, and post up what you get. get what you have running right first, and then you worry about changing cams, rockers, etc. what you have should be mid to low 13's if you can drive it and get it to hook, mph's should be around 100 give or take
    stykthyn likes this.
  18. I agree with all of this. 1 tooth off you will just have to turn the distributor farther. It can be out 180 degrees but will not run very good like that. I have made that mistake before.
  19. if you bogged it out of the hole that could be the reason the mph was low. you need to put a real tire on it and leave hard. the car should be able to easily run 1.8 second 60' times. when I was in high school my lx hatch with stock motor (including stock intake, tb and maf) with exhaust and 3.55s went 8.80s at mid 70s for mph in the 1/8th running 1.8 60' times with old M/T sportsman pros. leave harder and drive it.
  20. Bogging isnt It either. It will do this in the streets, if its under 3k you floor it it won't do jack until it goes over 3k it breaks them lose in first and 2nd but only after 3k rpm. Its like really really bad turbo lag but no turbo on my car. I'll do a compression check tomorrow and all that stuff. It probably is something stupid but we will see