Disappointing Times At The Track!!

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 91 quarter horse, Jun 8, 2013.

  1. This... and once you've tired of guessing, get a fuel pressure gauge and an air/fuel ratio meter with data-log capability and an rpm converter.

    Use these to determine why it's running poorly across the ENTIRE rpm range. The alternative is to get some dyno time in order to get the same data.
  2. This was in the plans but not at the moment :( , 2nd kid will be born soon. That's why I was asking for thoughts. I'll try the least expensive routes first.I was just remembering that it really became noticeable after I installed my bassani exhaust I don't know if it became noticeable because it was breathing a lot better or what but that's when it started...
  3. Your 60 ft seems off. What kind of tires do you have, what rpm are you launching and what is your tire pressure. I ran a near stock car back in the day with a short belt, gears, timing advanced to 14, headers, a 65mm TB, hurst shifter, K&N filter, removed the spare tire, jack, passenger and rear seat, put unhooked the front sway bar, used 2 donuts with 165/80/15 as skinnies and lowered the air pressure on the stock goodyears and ran mid 13s. I think if you put on a good set of DR and drive it like you stole it you should get low 13's.
  4. Hurry up and get this fixed before the baby comes. Your garage time dwindles to almost nothing with an infant. I'm sure you figured that out on your first kid. My son will be 2 next month, I get garage time when he is in bed... That's about it.
  5. the under 3k rpm stuff almost sound like it might be running rich off idle? pull the codes, they may be really revealing. with the cel coming on this should be one of the first things you do anyway
  6. Your comment doesn't really make much sense.
    I never said he needed a "money tree" and should go out and buy another 2 grand in parts.
    He could have simply used the explorer intake with a converted 65mm TB. Certainly would be better quality than the typhoon.
    In most cases that would cost LESS money.
    Part of being on a budget it getting the right parts for your money. Especially when involving working with gaskets and fluids, those things start to add up after a couple of installs.

    The meter? There is a reason i reference it all the time, they work. A 75mm bullet on a stock car gives a proven .2 in the quarter, not bad for something you can get used for $100.
    The only thing a c&l does is make your car run worse.
    stykthyn likes this.
  7. I had a typhoon.. Went back to the explorer setup.. I just bought another explorer intake for 60$ at ford nationals carlise yesterday.
  8. Could be a fuel regulator issue as others have said. To shed some light I went 14.5 with a 1.7-1.8 60ft on 17s full weight with a full stereo in the trunk and spare tire. Something is deffinitley off. My car has a similar issue where sometimes it falls flat after 3k-55 and sometimes it doesn't. Good luck with it .
  9. Launch her out at 5k and keep her over 3k rpm- problem solved haha
  10. Ok so we tested the tps and it was at 1.3, we set it to 900 I believe and it runs ALOT better in first gear,2nd gear pulls harder but still notice more of a power band after 3k rpm. Just ordered a pressure gauge so we will see. The car came with an adjustable fpr and had a lot of thread showing but don't want to do this blind. Hopefully this solves the issue and I can get mid to low 13s :)
  11. that's good news. It was definitely sounding like a tuning issue. You should be able to blast the tires away with a 3.55 and a T-5. (unless you've got good suspension and sticky tires)
  12. That's great to hear! I was hitting 9.7 (1/8) with 75mm TB, MAF, crappy tires, E303 Cam, stock heads & intake manifold, while having clutch/cable issues getting into 2nd gear. I am having the same issue with no lower end power, and I am also having idle surge issues.

    When I get my torque box reinforcement, and U&L control arms in, I am going to go for another run. If you come up with any more problems on why this was happening, I would love to hear them. I could be having the same issues too. Let us know your new and improved time as well :)
  13. Just curious you say a 76 mm maf is proven .2 tenths but also state the 75m throttle body is oversized?isnt that contradictory?
  14. C&L is garbage
    I had an Eddy Performer. Same runner /plenum as the typhoon and it still wasnt any better than the explorer unit. Quality/fit/finish on the explorer is better as well.
  15. Yes and no. Its kind of a perception of power thing versus making a real amount of additional horsepower.

    The larger the throttle body, the more that can come past the butterfly, with less opening. Thats why throttle response improves. Its not that its making crazy more power just that more air comes through with less foot on the gas.

    It does hurt the bottom end power band with the larger the throttle bodies. Similar principle to intake runner and design. The larger opening hurts velocity. Your engine is going to pull a set amount of air based on its needs. That amount of air will enter the intake faster through a smaller opening throttle body than the same amount of air would through a large throttle body.

    Just depends on your needs and goal for the car. I think for most people a 65 or 70 MM is probably fine.

    Think of a engine like a giant air pump. If you could hook a drill up and free spin the engine you would be able to feel the suction on the intake side and expelled air on the exhaust side.
    #35 jAEded, Sep 5, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013