distributor gear

[speedy66]

Im doing the 5.0 swap.. Do you have to take the distributor to a machine shop to get the gears on the distributor swapped?

 

[D.Hearne]

No you can swap them yourself. Just takes a little gentle persuasion ( the little F---n hammer method) and a little patience. I've done two, neither was hard. The instructions are included with the gear. Use a steel gear for a roller motor, the brass/bronze gears wear too fast.

 

[gp001]

It is easier if you have access to a press. You also need to be very precise when measuring where to drill for the new gear. With my MSD gear swap the gear placement only had a margin of error of 0.009". Here is a scan of the instruction sheet

http://www.2mfffabshop.com/misc/msdgear.JPG

 

[bifs66]

I suggest taking it to a knowledgeable machine shop. Provide the specs in case they don't know them as it is a critical dimension where the gear is positioned. IIRC, it ran me about $20 to have the cast gear removed and a bronze one installed on a new MSD dist. I've removed them with simple garage tools myself; but I wanted an expert (experience/tools) to install it for the Fastback's engine.

 

[usedtobe 67p51d]

just make sure you use the right gear My dad said hell yes that bronze one will work---three oil changes latter I was still seein glitter. motor lasted 100k miles of way harsh treatment

 

[gp001]

I would not put on a bronze gear. For a roller use a steel gear. I originally put on a broze gear cuz that's what some people recommended, but after ~750 miles the gear stripped. Driving down the freeway with my buddy behind me. He said it looked like a battle ship firing. There was a HUGE BOOM and then nothin. When I talked to CHP about it they said use as steel. Bronze is good for a race engine that gets checked/serviced regularly, but being so soft it will not last long under normal driving conditions
The steel gear I replaced it with has gone 14k miles. I have pulled the distributor and inspected both the gear and cam at 5k, 7k, 10k, 13k, and it neither show signs of wear.
Here is a pic of the cast iron gear (new, never used) and the stripped bronze gear.

 

[speedy66]

Yeah I have a steel gear

 

[jae902]

My msd came with the bronze gear, i don't want to buy another gear cause i'm broke as it is. The motor i have is a roller cam block, can i just take the gear off the original distributor that came with the motor and swap it?

 

[gp001]

My msd came with the bronze gear, i don't want to buy another gear cause i'm broke as it is. The motor i have is a roller cam block, can i just take the gear off the original distributor that came with the motor and swap it?

Nope. Chances are the holes drilled in the gear are not in the same spot. My MSD came with a cast iron gear. When I first swapped to the bronze the hole in the shaft and hole in the gear did not line up. Had to redrill. Same when I went from bronze to steel.

EDIT: What the hell am I talking about?? That answer does match you question. You can use the gear from the motor if 1.) The shaft diameter are the same, and 2.) It is a steel gear for the roller

I need to start drinking already

 

[D.Hearne]

When yuo swap gears, yuo really don't want to try and line up the existing holes on the dist shaft and gear. With a replacement gear, you drive the gear onto the shaft and drill a new hole thru the gear and shaft at 90 degrees to the old one. Then install the roll pin.

 

[jae902]

When yuo swap gears, yuo really don't want to try and line up the existing holes on the dist shaft and gear. With a replacement gear, you drive the gear onto the shaft and drill a new hole thru the gear and shaft at 90 degrees to the old one. Then install the roll pin.

Why wouldn't you want to use the existing holes?

 

[bifs66]

I would not put on a bronze gear. For a roller use a steel gear. I originally put on a broze gear cuz that's what some people recommended, but after ~750 miles the gear stripped. Driving down the freeway with my buddy behind me. He said it looked like a battle ship firing. There was a HUGE BOOM and then nothin. When I talked to CHP about it they said use as steel. Bronze is good for a race engine that gets checked/serviced regularly, but being so soft it will not last long under normal driving conditions
The steel gear I replaced it with has gone 14k miles. I have pulled the distributor and inspected both the gear and cam at 5k, 7k, 10k, 13k, and it neither show signs of wear.
Here is a pic of the cast iron gear (new, never used) and the stripped bronze gear.

I wanted to use a steel gear, but I was told that the Chet Herbert solid roller cam required a bronze gear. I checked it after about 2000 mi of street and track driving (4:11 gears and HV oil pump) and found no unusual wear. I guess they got it positioned correctly on the distributor shaft. However, I would have been happier with a steel gear if I could have used one.

 

[D.Hearne]

Why wouldn't you want to use the existing holes?

Because the new gear has no holes in it. And if swapping gears from one dist to another, chances are if you do get the holes lined up. the dist gear will not be in the correct location on the shaft and you'll end up with binding gears or premature wear.

 

[98CobraClone]

if the bronze gears get worn out so quick, why are they the ones recommended by most people for those with a roller cam?

 

[D.Hearne]

Cause they're still of the mind set that roller cams are just for racing. If you want a bronze or brass gear, then by all means, go ahead and get one. Just rememeber what us, who advocate using steel gears told you, when that bronze gear strips when you're out cruising in BFE in the middle of summer and it's 110 degrees outside. Just common sense will tell you that a brass or bronze gear will wear faster against a steel camshaft than a matching steel gear will.

 

[gp001]

Cause they're still of the mind set that roller cams are just for racing. If you want a bronze or brass gear, then by all means, go ahead and get one. Just rememeber what us, who advocate using steel gears told you, when that bronze gear strips when you're out cruising in BFE in the middle of summer and it's 110 degrees outside. Just common sense will tell you that a brass or bronze gear will wear faster against a steel camshaft than a matching steel gear will.

YUP! BOOOOOM and nothin. Loudest boom I've ever heard. Not fun.

 

[66Stanger]

Distributor gear...

Hi guys !

I've '66 Mustang with 332 stroker and E303 cam.
First gear dead at 800 miles (FMS-M12390B 0.467").
Second gear dead at 60 miles only !

Maybe the good choice is FMS-M12390F (0.531") ??

I use a HV oil pump from Milodon, is it the cause ??

Please let me know your opinion about it.



Thank you,

'66 Stanger on http://www.pro-touring.com/ :
- 289 bored 0.030 block
- Eagle 3.25 4340 nitrured crank
- Eagle 5.400 4340 H-beam rods
- JE Forged aluminum pistons (11.25:1)
- Edelbrock Victor Jr CNC cylinder heads (2.05/1.65” Manley valves and bronze guides)
- Comp Cams Hydro Roller cam (230°/230° @0.050 and 0.544 lift)
- Comp Cams Roller Valvetrain
- Comp Cams Hi-Tech Stainless Rocker Arms (7/16”)
- Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
- Holley 750cfm carbureter
- ARP bolts
- Pete Jackson timing chain
- Milodon water pump
- Milodon high volume pump
- Electric Mallory fuel pump (140GPH)
- MSD distributor
- MSD 6AL
- Moroso BlueMax spark wires
- Fel-Pro gaskets
- SFI harmonic balancer
- Milodon 8qts low profile
- Griffin 19”x 24” aluminium radiator
- 16” electric fan
- K&N 14”x4” air filter


Tranny and front/rear

- Tremec T-5Z (5th at 0.68)
- 10.5” Cobra clutch
- Steel flywheel
- Hurst shifter
- 9” with Auburn 3.55
- Custom subframes
- Custom additionals subframes connectors
- Shelby traction bar
- 1 1/8” front sway bar
- 3/4” rear sway bar
- Koni Special shock absorbers
- 11” front disc brakes
- 620 springs
- 5 leaf springs
- Polygraphite bushings
- 17”x8” Thrust II wheel (225/45 and 245/40)

 

[D.Hearne]

Hi guys !

I've '66 Mustang with 332 stroker and E303 cam.
First gear dead at 800 miles (FMS-M12390B 0.467").
Second gear dead at 60 miles only !

Maybe the good choice is FMS-M12390F (0.531") ??

I use a HV oil pump from Milodon, is it the cause ??

Please let me know your opinion about it.

If your gear was the steel one and only lasted that long, then you either installed it incorrectly or it was defective. You cannot use the .531 gear in place of the .467 If your dist shaft was a .467, the .531 gear would just fall onto the shaft. You say your oilpump is a HV unit, how much pressure does it put out. I'm using a Ford Racing HV pump and my cam gear and dist drive shaft have worked flawlessly for two years now. My oil pressure hot or cold at 2000rpms is 70-80 psi. If you've gone thru 2 dist gears, what does your cam's gear look like now? Or have you checked it?

 

[gp001]

I agree with D.Hearne. If you are eating gears, especially steel gears, then something is off. Like I said in post #3 of this thread, with the MSD distributor the placement of the gear was very critical (0.009" tolerance). I posted the MSD gear install instructions in that post also.
You definately want the .468" gear for a 289 or 302 based motor. Here is a link to MSD gears.

http://www.msdignition.com/dist_63.htm

I would definately check the gear on the cam very thoroughly. Maybe when the first gear went it damaged the cam and that's why the second gear didn't last long at all.

EDIT: I also use a hi vol pump and have 75-85 psi

 

[66Stanger]

I think that the seconde gear has incorrectly installed
(no lube on it and bad position : installed by a bad "expert" !)

First, I've checked the cam gear but without remove that.
No strippe (obviously).

Second, I've replaced the dead gear by a new one (bronze gear from MSD just for testing).
With a good position and lithium greace.

Third, I've installed the distributor with Cyl.1 on TDC
+ 10° advance but no starting !
This is my first time about timing if you have any advice
about it...

When the engine start, I'll let you know about my gear...

Thank you,

And I wish you all HAPPY NEW YEAR !