Don't Want To Screw It Up.....engine Start-up List

rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
10 Year Member
May 8, 2006
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So hopefully I can get a chance to work on the Mustang in the next month or so. I have been trying to get a list together for the initial "start-up" or re-starting of the car. The motor is not new, but received a turbo, FPR, injectors, new aeromotive 355 pump, intake, water pump and a bunch of other goodies I have forgotten in the six months since I've worked on it. I started it before having to travel for work, but did not get much done beyond the intial fire-up. I want to go back and start from scratch, ensuring I'm checking everything off as I go. I've come up with the below checklist, but need to ensure, since gone, that I'm thinking of everything so I do not donate the motor to the junkyard Gods or local highway. Help is needed, so chime in. The motor is a 327 (331 with stock sized pistons), AFR 185s, Eddy intake and a custom grind nitrous cam. The turbo is an HP stage 1 with a couple of upgrades.

List:
Pull dizzy and prime oil pump while drinking cold beverage
Pull plugs
Ensure TDC is marked correctly on balancer.
Ensure plugs are properly tight after checking gap (can't remember where I gapped at)
Check fuel pressure (HP literature has 27 PSI)
Fire motor (after replacing bad FAL controller)
Ensure spout is removed still and set timing to (HP had 16 degrees?)

I've got to work out some electrical gremlins witht the fan controller and wideband, but let me know what I'm not thinking of.
 
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27 and 16 is exactly what I have written, but I agree. I read the literature 3 or 4 times regarding the timing. At one point they say to lock it out by removing the spout, then talk about 16 degrees "total timing". That would indicate electronic advance to me? Seems a bit much and beyond my fan controller failing (did not like the antifreeze I spilled on it) the engine started getting a bit warm. The fuel pressure is an enigma to me. I did not have time to pull the plugs, and need to ensure my wideband is working correctly. The tune has been done by a gentlemen that has provided me several cheap project cars due to his poor work. It s meant for a stock motor with the HP and ran a bit rich down low. I couldnt speak to the actual mapping and probably wouldn't trust the guy if he told me. For now, its only there to get the car started. I am sending my AEM standalone in (for reformatting) as soon as I get home. Then, hopefully, I can find a reliable tuner to run me through the softwa
 
37-39 is where the fuel pressure should be at. But if you recently added bigger injectors and its running abit rich then 27 might be what it likes till you get a tune. 13-14 degrees timing is usually fine. Totally safe is like 10.
 
Anyone remember where stock fuel pressure sits? Unfortunately, I'm working with half the information I need at this point and don't have the car in front of me. I need to start out safe, but will need to get it under its own power even if it is just to load it on a trailer and take it for tuning. I'm kidding myself, I need to drive it around the block, just to get the motivation flowing again. I'm starting to believe that I will set the timing to 10-12 with the crappy 91 octane I'm getting in Southern Cali, but still need to find a safe area to set the fuel pressure. Then again, I'm probably being too safe. Too much time and money involed to biff this one up.
 
37-39 is where the fuel pressure should be at. But if you recently added bigger injectors and its running abit rich then 27 might be what it likes till you get a tune. 13-14 degrees timing is usually fine. Totally safe is like 10.

39 psi is stock with the vac line pulled. Is 27 idle with the line attached? The computer should be adjusting that. Timing stock is 10 deg btdc.
 
The lone print out (cant find a digital copy anymore) listed 27 psi, but it may very well mean with the vacum line attached. The company is out of buisness and it doesnt seem like any of the guys who purchased their kits kept the directions. Its hard to tell, but I'm going to have to just find a good "safe" starting point and dial it in from there.