1. My mustang didn't come with front door speakers but appears the wires were run from the factory. Do these wires need to be hooked up to the stock deck, I don't seem to get any power through them?
  2. I'm far from a Mustang expert. However, I do have extensive experience in the audio world.

    What year is your Mustang? Do you have rear speakers and are they hooked up and playing?

    Factory wiring can be a nightmare. Sometimes colors are the same, but go to something completely different. If it were me, I would just run new, quality wiring from the door speaker location to the deck. Then, there is no guessing, and just about any aftermarket wire you purchase is better quality than the stuff they run from the factory. It should be relatively easy, especially if you have a couple of wire pulling tools. (Plastic always better than the steel stuff for the auto environment. :) )

    There is a great site that you may be able to look up info on your car for stereos, relays, etc. They probably even have some color codes to help you out. Try visiting www.the12volt.com. Some really great info on that site.

    Please let me know if there is any other way I can assist. Good luck!
  3. 1987, without the premium system, thus the reason it only has 4 speakers instead of the 6. Fronts and rears are hooked up and work great! Wire is there for door speakers but when I hooked them up to the speakers I don't get any sound, so I'm guessing that the wire is put in there but not attached to anything behind the deck
  4. I thought premium was the amplifier they hid behind the deck.
  5. It is, I don't have the amp or the premium package
  6. That is certainly very possible. I didn't even know Mustangs back then came with 6 speakers! Shows you how much I know about Stangs.

    Anyway, do you happen to have a multimeter? If so, you could certainly do a trace of the wiring pretty easily. (If the 12volt.com site doesn't provide you any help.) If you don't have a meter, one can be had for not too much money, the inexpensive ones can be as cheap as $15-$30 at your local autoparts store. And, if you do much work on cars or around the house, you will definitely use it more than once!! If you are not sure of how to trace them out, I can certainly help you with that. Just let me know.
  7. That's good. Factory amps require either an aftermarket module or just running new wiring to get around them. These things can be a royal pain because the car manufacturers love to hide them in the craziest places!
  8. According to the12volt.com, here is what you are looking at for factory wiring in a 1987 Mustang:

    Left Front (+) Orange/Green
    Left Front (-) Light Blue/White
    Right Front (+) White/Green
    Right Front (-) Green/Orange
  9. Yah I have a multi meter, it's been a while since I broke that thing out, but as far as I could tell today, there was nothing going through the wires. So I'm wondering if in fact they just throw the wire in there and not hook it up because the standard deck doesn't have the output to power all six W/O the amp
  10. Yep, you are on the right track. Although it still CAN be done, you have to know what you are doing or the amp in the head unit can be damaged. Not that it's that difficult, but it's also not difficult to make a mistake, if you know what I mean. Man, it's times like this where I wish I could just transport over there, would love to jump in and help you out!!!

    Basically, you can wire your door speakers that you install into the other front speakers, if there is for sure no output from the deck to support extras. However, you must wire the speakers in SERIES, to prevent too little of a load to the amp and quite possibly damaging it. Most auto systems are built on the 4 ohm platform. However, I have seen many strange setups from the factory. I would use the meter to test what you have in there at current. You can either pull the speaker from the front or get to the wire from behind the deck. Set the meter to ohms and check the impedance. I'm guessing if they are original from 87 they are just a mid with the old whizzer cones. I doubt seriously you will run into trying to read through any crossovers.

    One thing to keep in mind, even if you do wire in door speakers to the others in the front (I'm assuming these are in the dash?), since you must do it in series, you will be cutting your power in half. That factory head probably only puts out around 3-10 watts anyway, so I'm not sure you are really going to gain anything.

    Again, I will be happy to give you any help or advice you need, just let me know where you would like to head. If it were me, and I wanted to really add more sound, I would do nothing else until I swapped out the factory deck. Today, aftermarket decks are almost a dime a dozen. A really nice one can be had for <$150, will give you a ton more features, and add more power. Just a thought.
  11. I'm thinking I will deal with the door speakers when I buy a new deck, I did think to run the doors in series off of the dash speakers, but again, I don't really want to tinker all that much with the car as far as that goes. I REALLY don't want to splice any wires as I'm trying to keep the car stock or easily put back to stock. I do have after market speakers in the rear and front, both sets 2 way. At this point they sound pretty crappy due to what I think is a high THD on the stock deck, plus the amount of power these speakers require. I'm sure the stock deck isn't really the best to run with 2 ways because it probably has no way to filter the frequncies all that well for this. I've been out of the stereo think for a LONG time, and am out of touch with it. I unfortunatley think I will have to but the aftermarket deck to really do anything worth while, I just like the fact that I have to drill 4 holes into the console.
  12. Don't like the fact that is
  13. I certainly understand.

    Again, if I may make a recommendation, check out www.crutchfield.com. You will not find any rock bottom prices at that site. However, they do offer several advantages. If you order a deck or speakers from them, they provide you with both a wiring harness and install kit for your specific vehicle, at no additional cost. They offer tech support at no additional charge if you run into problems. I have ordered from them since the early 90's. I have never once had an issue. Again, you are going to pay either full MSRP, or pretty close to it, but they do offer great service. In your case, it may be a good place to start. (Usually the harness and install kit keep you from having to cut or splice any FACTORY wires, or drill any holes.)

    I don't guess you happen to live anywhere near southern CA?

    Again, any other way I can help, please just let me know. You can get me through this forum or [email protected].
  14. Yah, love Crutchfield, on my 5th pair of speakers from there in the last 6 months, you just can't compete with them, makes me wonder how Bestbuy stays in business! I talked with one of their reps today and I know for a fact I have to drill 4 holes with the kit which is unfortunate but it's something to think about. My mother and father in law used to live in orange county, been there many times, but unfortunately no, I'm in the midwest!
  15. Cool man. Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. Yes, sucks that you have to drill holes, but sometimes can't be avoided. To think the number of cars I've cut up all in the name of quality sound!!!!

    Best of luck. I hope it all goes like you need it to. Can't wait till I find the right Foxbody, even though I know original is nice, I will be putting in the ultimate system. I just can't help it!! :)
  16. The door speakers are wired in parallel with the dash speakers. Only cars with premium sound came with the door speakers. The parallel connection is made at the amp.

    If you want to run a factory setup, you'll need the amp and amp harness. Then simple yank the radio out and install the amp on the support bracket in series.

    However, the front speakers are different depending in if you have standard or premium sound stereo. The standard speakers are full range, while the premium sound dash speakers have bass blockers. They operate like 25 year old tweeters, while the door speakers carry the mids and bass.

    This is important to know if you want to run the oem stereo like a few guys are starting to do for restoration. (Myself included as I put a 1993 CD player in my car)

    If you want a good stereo, go aftermarket and run your own wires and speakers

    Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk

  17. Would you not have to also install 2ohm resistors on speakers that are wired in parallel?
  18. Yes assuming you use non-factory speakers. The OEM premium dash speakers already have this, while the non-premium do not.

    Components would be a good way to go. Mid/lows in the door with tweeters in the dash and full range in the rear. Add a small 8" sub in the rear with a modern head unit and you have a simple basic stereo that won't rattle the car apart.
    Noobz347 likes this.
  19. This is definitely a good option.^^^

    I like it but prefer this:

    View: http://youtu.be/bU19A60K_Zo
    (come back later if you don't have good sound right now). :nice:
  20. To each his own, but I would like to throw in an opinion on the above. In my experience, rear speakers are a waste, in general, but most especially if you are building the sound for yourself. They usually do nothing more than muddy and confuse the sound stage.

    Also, I NEVER recommend installing resistors with speakers. Not only do you have to install one with the proper power rating (depending on how much power, these resistors can be very large in physical size) but you are also wasting power that you have already paid money for. Just doesn't make sense, in my honest opinion.

    Again, certainly don't mean to be argumentative, and of course anyone is free to do whatever they choose. I just wanted to throw my two cents out there, in case it may assist anyone.

    By the way, the Mustang above sounds awesome!! Very nice!
    Noobz347 likes this.