I know what I'll do with my UPR k member, I'll find somebody I hate and give it to them for a screaming deal 
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@Fordfreak93 My tabs for my control arms were off too. A BFH kinda cured that, should've taken a sawzall to it right then and there but I'm a gluten for punishment I suppose. I have some money burning a hole in my pocket but I just don't want to set this back another few weeks by replacing the K member right now. Maybe next winter I'll do it and just drop the K member under the car with the engine still supported from above.
Right now I want to
I know what I'll do with my UPR k member, I'll find somebody I hate and give it to them for a screaming deal
I feel your pain, I'm trying to move forward and not backwards right now too. I should have scrapped all this stuff after my buddy cracked his UPR K-member road racing at Sebring. I figure that will be a nice winter time project, swapping in maximum stuff turning my upr garbage into yard art. I'm really not happy with this stuff but I'm ready to bang some gears too. It's staying on for now but I'm really disappointed with it and I'll swap it out as soon as I have the chance. I've got an idea, we can do a buy one get one deal for some poor sucker, hahaha
Doesn't UPR have a lifetime warranty? I would email them about the fitment and powder coating "rust" (aka patina powder coating lol). Never know they may send another lawn art for free.
At this point the only thing that would make me happy would be for them to buy it all back, which will never happen. I've purchased three things from Maximum Motorsports, caster camber plates, bumpsteer kit and full length subframe connectors. The way they package their parts, the instructions they provide and the overall customer experience is far superior to UPR. Another example, my upr k-member was supposed to come with the bolt kit but they were nowhere to be found after I unpacked everything. I called up my buddy and upr gave him such a hard time that he ended up paying out of his own pocket for a new bolt kit. So after spending hundreds and hundreds of dollars with them they were hassling over a $30 bolt kit. I don't know, I just don't get the warm fuzzies from them... I guess I'm a MM guy.
- Mar 2, 2015
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I bought the cheapest of the cheap k members. Guess I lucked out because its been a lot if miles through a few cars. Everything fit well and the powder coating is still great. AJE must've been trying to prove something 8 years ago. I've heard real horror stories about them so I'm not endorsing...but thats one time ( the only time ) cheap payed off.
I noticed the k member main section that runs under the engine has been redesigned in the last couple years.
Maximum Motorsports seems like the way to go.
I noticed the k member main section that runs under the engine has been redesigned in the last couple years.
Maximum Motorsports seems like the way to go.
all this upr talk is why i went racecraft for my k member. have yet to bolt it on, but at least the finish is good 
@FoxMustangLvr What gauge metal did you use in your bay? What type of Evercoat did you use? I've heard good things about their Rage product. I'm trying to get all of my supplies ordered
I forget if I bought a 4x4 sheet of 20 or 22 gauge mild steel. There was plenty left over (more than half) but I wanted to have extra to practice welding thin steel which is what I would recommend to you.
Pic below of the Evercoat Metal2metal that I used. See also the first few pages of my build thread for all of my engine bay smoothing if you'd like
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...obra-irs-swap-_-kenne-bell-twin-screw.878656/
Thanks man! Those pics are definitely helpful. Now that you've made your own panels, do you wish that you had gone with different ones? Do you still like the straight down style? I'm trying to decide between making my own or just going with Scott Rod panels, and also if I want straight down or contoured panels. It looks like the contoured panels give you a little more room in the front of the engine bay, but they have very hard lines that seem to stand out in the bay. I'm leaning towards straight down style panels, but I want to make sure I won't regret it later. Any feedback would be awesomeI forget if I bought a 4x4 sheet of 20 or 22 gauge mild steel. There was plenty left over (more than half) but I wanted to have extra to practice welding thin steel which is what I would recommend to you.
Pic below of the Evercoat Metal2metal that I used. See also the first few pages of my build thread for all of my engine bay smoothing if you'd like
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...obra-irs-swap-_-kenne-bell-twin-screw.878656/
I think the SR panels that @Davedacarpainter did on his red car look great and makes the engine bay look larger. I also love the look of my panels which I think gives more room to run all the electrical, hood latch cable, vacuum lines, fuses, etc in the fender well. I really enjoyed making my panels to be honest, I'd do it again (and probably will one of these days).
There is a lot of junk that gets tucked in to the fender
We prefer to drive our cars, no automotive jack stand lawn art around herePersonally I wouldn't run either just put a turbo on each side
Those Scott Rod panels look amazing! I'm leaning towards buying those for my bay. I've got a few questions if you don't mind. Did you cut out your old aprons because they were damaged? (It's probably in your build thread somewhere, but damn that thread is long!) Did you seam weld the panels in or tack them in? I have access to a panel bond gun and thought about going that route. Did you have to use filler on them before painting? Thanks man, sorry to keep dragging you in here, hahaScott Rod
No power adders for me, unless you're buying!??? It's going to push my budget over the top just trying to paint and put new shoes on this thing.Personally I wouldn't run either just put a turbo on each side
That's where I was over budget, I made a list of how much it would cost to make my fox right and it caused me to convert over much deliberation. Now it will just be a matte black and awesome sounding with a fire patina haha.
you could just buy that other one done for like 10.5K and be done
jk. Built not brought
ive got the same panels, i actually tried the lmr full apron replacement first and was not happy with the way it looked, and went the SR route. i cut my old aprons out, but looking back at it now i wish i had left them in.
I got all of the glass out! Sorry for a double post if you already saw my other windshield thread. If you want the dirty details of how it came out: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...or-pulling-a-windshield-all-glass-out.896930/
After being quoted $325 to remove the glass, and being constantly told I'm going to break it, it feels good to get it out! Don't ever let anyone tell you that you can't do something!
I said this in the other thread, but I feel like I need to say it again. I challenge you to take your doors and fenders off and glass out and tell me you still have a rust free car. Ford spot welded these cars together and painted them with the doors on and didn't spray behind the fenders or in the cowl worth a f*ck. Unless your car has been garaged it's entire life or lived in AZ and never saw a drop of rain, your junk is rusty too! Can you tell I'm sick of RUST!!?? I just have a couple more spots to cut out on the trunk corners and then I'll be done with rust, I hope...
After being quoted $325 to remove the glass, and being constantly told I'm going to break it, it feels good to get it out! Don't ever let anyone tell you that you can't do something!
I said this in the other thread, but I feel like I need to say it again. I challenge you to take your doors and fenders off and glass out and tell me you still have a rust free car. Ford spot welded these cars together and painted them with the doors on and didn't spray behind the fenders or in the cowl worth a f*ck. Unless your car has been garaged it's entire life or lived in AZ and never saw a drop of rain, your junk is rusty too! Can you tell I'm sick of RUST!!?? I just have a couple more spots to cut out on the trunk corners and then I'll be done with rust, I hope...
This is what I'll be working on this weekend. I think that I can remove that entire corner piece by drilling the spot welds and the carefully cutting the edges. I know there is more rust hiding behind them, but I'm hoping for the best.
I've been out of my comfort zone for months now, tackling stuff I've never even attempted before. I'm trying to be more of a doer than a thinker lately and it seems to be going well. I usually sit around and worry about all the things that can go wrong, but now I'm just diving in. I know everyone struggles with their own projects in different ways, just wanted to encourage anyone who needs it. Get out there and kick some ass!
I've been out of my comfort zone for months now, tackling stuff I've never even attempted before. I'm trying to be more of a doer than a thinker lately and it seems to be going well. I usually sit around and worry about all the things that can go wrong, but now I'm just diving in. I know everyone struggles with their own projects in different ways, just wanted to encourage anyone who needs it. Get out there and kick some ass!
Looks one hell of a lot better in the wheel well mostly. Plus it makes (keeps) a stronger structure.
Mostly I wish I had just done the SR panels first instead of even fooling with the lmr ones.
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