Dr_elusives Swap Question and Progress Thread V 2.0

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by Dr_EluSivE, Apr 4, 2005.

  1. I'm not totally relying on the butt dyno... I'm also talking about the ear dyno. It sounds a lot smoother. And how is using 1 extra ground strap grounding every single piece of metal? Well, actually it is close to doing that, but not literally. Anyway, enough thread jacking. You have your reasons, I have mine, and that's just how it is.
  2. Keep posting pics. This should be done up as a timeline. Its quite interesting indead.
  3. It's called "sarcasm" Brantley...you might want to look it up some time. ;)

    Adding one more piece of wire to the three or four existing pieces of wire changes NOTHING. The ECU grounds directly to the battery for all the sensor grounds (signal return) and directly to the turbo for the O2 ground. The drivers and screens go to the case ground (chassis). No part of the ECU wiring on a 2.3 turbo, except for the O2 ground is referenced to, grounded to or in any way connected through, any part of the engine...and the EGO ground is a direct "home run" right to pin 49 of the ECU. You could weld the engine to the frame and it wouldn't change that fact and it wouldn't change anything in a material way.

    As long as pin 49 has >.5 ohms back to the battery, the ECU could be mounted on a Barbie Dream House and it wouldn't know the difference.

    They say a little knowledge can be dangerous...maybe I'm making you more dangerous, but what the heck...the ground straps are very generally there to provide a good reference ground for the guages and on early cars, the fan switch...which ARE ground-referenced through the engine. The battery cable running to the block is for the starter ground and nothing else...disconnect it and the guage ground and see what happens to your guages when you crank the engine. :eek:

    The case ground (next to the ECU) needs to be clean and tight. This one (depends on year) provides the ground path for the injectors, EEC relay and the screens (RF shielding). On later models, the actuators go directly to battery negative and the case ground only carries the screens.

    You need a good quality battery cable from the negative terminal to the chassis to the block. The chassis lead can be smaller (like stock in a car), but it can also be done with one cable, clamped to the chassis along the way (stock in many trucks). You should have some kind of direct reference ground from the engine to the chassis near the firewall (10-12ga is plenty) for the guage reference ground.

    The ECU sensor ground should connect directly to the battery in a Ford. Period. Adding 1, 10 or 50 additional wires changes nothing, zip, nada, zero, ziltch. If you think it does, you have a vivid imagination...you should write science fiction or something, but stay away from car wiring...you'll eventually hurt yourself trying to coax the space aliens out of your alternator. :rlaugh:

    (Hint for Brantley: ^^^That^^^ would be more sarcasm.)
  4. Dr., after you set your cam timing and such before you fire it up remember to rotate the assembly through two full rotations to let the tensioner take up the belt slack, then tighten that tensioner back down.

    Otherwise on your test run, your engine might go POW and die. You will soil yourself thinking your engine just ate it, when it jumps a couple teeth.

    Ask me how I know this, I dare you.
  5. Speaking of hints.... I guess you didn't get mine, huh? Maybe I should spell it out for you. Like I stated earlier in a reply that you didn't read very carefully, neither of us will convince the other is right or wrong, so who cares? You'll keep doing them your way, and I'll keep doing them my way. There will be no more replies from me on this topic. End of discussion.
  6. Well i for one Appricaite the Input, I just want to avoid problems, and build a quick and fun car. I know you started with an 88 TC motor and a ranger cam too, if you have any suggestions as to things to do or avoid when i do mine, Please Shout. I will always take suggestions from people more knowledgeable then myself.

  7. If straight-up, uncontroverted facts can't convince you that you're mistaken, then at least admit to yourself that you're operating on your beliefs rather than working from some sort of objective reality. "Rodding as religion" as it were.
  8. I'll be glad to help with what I can.. that was my intention on the ground strap thing.. just offering my opinion and experiences and then gio_mamma.. well, you read all that. Anyway, good luck with your project, and if you have questions, post them up.
  9. Update!

    I have the new motor Mostly assembled, put the roller cam in today and the new valvecover gasket, thermostat and gasket, New timing gear and timing belt. I still need to mount the turbo and oil lines (its just hanging there for mach up purposes) install the new cap, rotor, and wires, Install the throttle body, and then put the motor mounts and Accessory brackets back on. As soon as thats done i can mount the clutch and tranny and drop it back in. Its coming along nicely. Here are some updated pics of the motor.


    I really like the Race engineering cam gear, it fits perfect and unlike some, mine did not need to be adjusted at all to hit the timing mark. I do have one strange problem thoough... My turbo support bracket must have gotten bent somtime in its life because the holes that mount on the manifold are to close to line up, i need to strech it out a bit and then mount it.

    Comments Welcome.


    Attached Files:

  10. You guy's are ruthless. There's a ground on my engine that isn't connected properly. Now I'm about to go out there and do it right. If it runs "miraculously" better I'll be surprised. If I notice no difference, I won't. But I'll hope for the best!
  11. Well, I hate to bring the ole butt dyno back out, but after making my braded ground correct (it basically wasn't even hooked up) and turning back my timing just a hair, the car idled smoother, and seemed to gain like maybe 2 hp. My first two four cylinders where both 2.6 mitsubishi motors, and I have to say they where slow as a$$. But this 2.3 really feels as fast to me as my 2.9 bronco was, and I had it build pretty tough.
  12. Wow lookin nice man :nice: Like the Timing belt cover hole ya put there too. Good thinkin!

    Edit Also the bolts that hold the water pump pully on you might wont to paint, I didnt when I painted my engine and they rusted a bit and looked like crap. Just somthing thats easyer to do while the engine is out.
  13. that really is a nice looking motor. I prefer the original ford blue myself, but that setup is pulling off light blue quite well.
  14. what is that car sitting in the background under all the junk? not a small british car dreaming of its own turbo motor is it?
  15. 68 austin Healey Sprite. Its in bad need of some body panels. Its the Twin sister to My 73 MG. The 2.3 Lima Block is too tall for the MG's otherwise i might consider it. I did however call on a RX7 12a Rotory the other day for it.

  16. i think they sell kits to stuff the v6 motor thats in my mustang II into those cars. Never drove a british car like that, but they are supposed to be a blast aren't they?
  17. they are a blast. So small, and nimble, its like driving a street legal go cart. Not a whole lot of power, (55hp stock) but they only weigh #1700 so they go pretty good. No top end though, mine tops out at about 90, but its a 4 speed with 4.22 gears so i guess thats to be expected.. Here is mine..


  18. Don't mean to jump in the middle of a war, but here's my solution to the 'bad ground' problem (if, according to gio, there even is one)! Ground isolators welded to the frame. That should solve the 'bad ground' problem, if it exists!


    Attached Files: