Drag Suspension?

Discussion in '1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by ktaylOR2012, Oct 29, 2012.

  1. so the build is starting slowing but surly. made up my mind on that when i get out of school going to put a TT 5.4 into the stang build it for Drag! so im building the car for the little stuff now. it is no longer the daily driver so for the best suspension for the track. best set ups! going to do suspension, then cut more lbs out of the car and then gears. then start saving
    Lyncher6868 likes this.
  2. first things first... wheelie bar and a parachute
    hoopty5.0 and txredgt like this.
  3. You would be surprised how fast you can go with a basically stock suspension. The trick is all in the setup. Drag shocks and struts, poly rear bushings, weld the torque boxes so you don't rip them out, yank the front sway bar, and slap on some sticky tires. I've seen such very basic suspension combinations go 1.5 to 1.6 60' times which will get you moving in a hurry. Heck, my 4cyl did a 1.6 60' with a much more stock suspension and nitto DRs.

    If you went with a full on drag suspension (like a ladder bar), you will spend a lot more time and effort dialing it in... if you ever could get it right on your own. Don't do that unless you have some experts to help you out.
    Winters98GT likes this.
  4. That's about the worst advice for a starting point. I trap 149-150mph, and that's not first on the list. A good roll bar/cage and harness is the best starting point for safety. Have you ever pulled a shoot without the interior proper safety equipment inside a car?

    Since you are going TT, get the clutch/power plant put in the car. Get it out to the track, put some drag radials on it and go from there. Subframes, tq boxes, and axles are a good starting point.
  5. I would agree 100%. Start off with the basics.
  6. guess you didn't see the joke in that...
  7. Well, one of the Stangnet vendors manufactures the best bolt in suspension on the market for drag racing purposes, so you're in good hands there.

    Basically, you you'll want a full tubular chrome-moly k-member setup in the front and adjustable tubular control arms in the back. Add adjustable shocks and drag springs or coilovers, and your suspension will be 6-second quarter mile capable. I've actually driven thousands of miles on the street with this setup, and it's perfectly livable on the street if you don't mind a little NVH. However, it should be noted that suspension is just one piece of the puzzle. It needs to be adjusted to match your combo, and the clutch or torque converter also plays a big role.
  8. Call Maximum Motorsports, and buy some quality stuff. There customer service is Top Notch and will even help you pick the right springs and shock set up for your car.

    Whatever you do, DONT BUY FROM UPR.
    03_TrueBlue_GT likes this.
  9. Im running stock shocks with the UPR k member, a arms and coil over conversion up front, and steeda lowering springs in the rear. Still have the quad shocks installed and everything else is stock. Cut a 1.7 on street tires with 3.27s in the rear. Going to the ROCK this weekend with a set of Mickey T's ET streets, built rear-end w/ 3.55s and a two-step... I hope I get below a 1.7.
  10. lol looks like im in the wrong place to get suspension questions answered lol
  11. H
    The second I read that I had to laugh :lol:

    In terms of what you can do, I read that removing the front sway bar helps transfer weight to the back, do as much weight reduction/transfer up front as you can (relocating batter to back, tubular K-Member, having a stricter diet, etc.) The first thing I'd do is get some drag slicks if you wanted better times right off the bat.

    Here's a link that has some good info in it! http://www.dragzine.com/tech-storie...tock-suspension-tips-from-team-z-motorsports/

    Good luck :)