I think I'm going to take my time this go around. No rush...its almost Christmas. I don't usually order stuff this time of year but, I may have to make an exception.

Might check the yards for Volvo electronic power steering pumps....
 
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I got the flywheel and transmission back in. Just small stuff left like putting the driveshaft in and the center console back together.

I've been working for the last few weeks with a dislocated wrist. Doesn't really hurt but its about to put me out of commission for a few weeks....might need surgery. Oh well....Merry Christmas to me.
 
I got the flywheel and transmission back in. Just small stuff left like putting the driveshaft in and the center console back together.

I've been working for the last few weeks with a dislocated wrist. Doesn't really hurt but its about to put me out of commission for a few weeks....might need surgery. Oh well....Merry Christmas to me.
I dislocated/sprained mine 2 months ago in a "skateboard" accident. And in my line of work that's not a good thing. Just now getting to feel 100%. Take care of it.
 
Not bad for 42 bucks at the pick and pull.

20201213_155906.jpg


That's a 90 degree oil filter adapter....volvo s40 electronic power steering pump....and MAF sensor harness of an old taurus ( I melted mine way back when I first put the turbo in )
 
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The plan is to get rid of the battery, windshield washer bottle, and moroso overflow. To do that I need to get some stuff to relocate the battery and source a 82 mustang windshield washer / overflow box that fits where the battery resides now.

Screenshot_20201213-163539_Chrome.jpg


The reservoir for the electronic P/S should install neatly between the new box and the coil / strut tower.

Right now I'm focused on getting Dusty back on the ground. Decided to go with BBRC fuel rails with aeromotive regulator and 3/8 hard feed and 5/16 return lines. Still coilovers for the rear but eyeballing Kenny Brown lower IRS arms and his coil overs....

I'm anxious as hell. Son comes home from AIT next week before heading to South Korea. Working with a one hand handicap.

Someone asked me if my cup was half empty or half full ? I replied, I've got a cup'n sumtin's in it...and it's refillable. Lmao.

Happy Holidays folks !!!
 
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yes sir, and a filter adapter if you come across one but its low priority. I want to do the electric PS at some point

There were a couple volvos out there with units in them. Someone has been taking them though. Atleast 4 were missing. They just ripped the bumpers back and cut the brackets. There was another one that had the remote reservoir but someone opened the cap and water is in it. I'll keep my eyes open for another one for sure.
 
I checked the schematics on the pump at work. ( 2004 Volvo s40 2.4L ) Apparently, there's a speed sensor built into the pump. At idle it should spin around 2500rpm...at load it should be at around 6500rpm. The three wires must be a speed signal input...and I'd guess a data out. The issue is there is no schematic actually showing what wires do what. The gray wire is what people put 12v to and it sounds like that's full on all the time.

If I can find the speed output I would think I could find a way for my mspnp2 to control the pulse width for pump speed. I believe there is also a steering signal input to tell it when you are turning the wheels.

The issue is that neither of them look like CAN BUS wires. There are trouble codes set for the PS module so it must communicate out through one of the three lines. Or, it's all based on motor speed.

If I could find what wires do exactly what I could crack this code and get factory like power steering. The signal for steering could be as simple as a tooth on the column that rides inside a ring with the top open. Steering straight and the pump is idle...turn the wheel and the tooth contacts the ring and pump goes full on. MS may also be able to use vehicle speed + steering action = PS motor speed.

I need to find a way to check for the motor speed output. Then I can test whether pulsing the 12v gray wire changes motor speed. My tko600 already has an electronic speed sensor and harness that's just dangling on the trans. Gotta find a good way to put it to use.

What do you think @a91what ?

I think I'm going to destroy one out in the JY for the name of science. Hopefully, the one full of water is still there when I get back out.
 
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@a91what

Screenshot_20201216-094210_Drive.jpg


There is CAN BUS high and low on the other two wires. Seems like in order to get to the motor speed sensor I'll have to take one apart. There is a notation of a motor speed sensor and detection in the diag flow chart...however, the speed of the motor could be picked up through the actual motor itself. There is a formula for using the sine wave and calculating rpm. In this particular situation the module inside the assembly probably calculates and varies the voltage to the motor leaving no outside way to do it. The 12v trigger wire is probably going to an internal relay so varying voltage or pulsing may not work. I've got to get inside one of these.
 
It looks to me like the unit has its own module inside that receives the can signal and then will pwm the solid state relay. unless we can debug the can circuit and figure out what address it is and what its looking for.... IMO alot of work and will require a second module to communicate with it, an arduino can be used but you would have to write your own code for it AND get it talking with the MS at the same time for some type of load feedback.

NOT worth the hassle IMO. :chin

let that bish run as is :nice:
 
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It looks to me like the unit has its own module inside that receives the can signal and then will pwm the solid state relay. unless we can debug the can circuit and figure out what address it is and what its looking for.... IMO alot of work and will require a second module to communicate with it, an arduino can be used but you would have to write your own code for it AND get it talking with the MS at the same time for some type of load feedback.

NOT worth the hassle IMO. :chin

let that bish run as is :nice:

Or gut the module out and let MS pulse width the solid state relay. No need for can or the module. No second module...no codes to crack. Easy peasy...I just need to see inside one.