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Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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Got done early at the farm so decided to prep stuff for the big day tomorrow.

There were no issues with this clutch other than pushing through it occasionally. Figured I could atleast use the clutch fork...nope... I was wrong.

20201107_185324.jpg


I never pulled it off and checked it when I took the t5 out of my 89 gt. Never had an issue at all with shifting or noise.

It was riding at an angle...

20201107_185708.jpg


Guess I found the problem. I hope we get more stuff made in the good ole USA. This is BS....

20201107_185330.jpg


So much for my big day tomorrow.
You should really get the longer fork for the TKO anyway. My cable goes into the fork at an angle and it drives me crazy.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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The reason the fork got ground into is because the opening for the bearing itself is too big. It allowed the collar for the bearing to twist.

Its also a softer type of steel. I'm ordering a Ford one. I think welding it and filing it into shape would just cause other issues. Its a cheap China fork that happens to be nicely galvanized. Good looking POS.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Went to Tractor supply to try and find new bolts since the old ones are going on the old engine. No dice at all. Ended up ordering front coilovers, spanner wrench, Ford fork, and all new bolts.

Next go around should be the driveshaft, rear shocks, and rear coilovers. After that I should be done under the car. Might actually get to drive it again by December.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Stuff was supposed to show up today....but no bueno. FedEx sucks right now. They are really overwhelmed with all the stuff being shipped. I guess this will be the new norm. I really got spoiled by real delivery dates.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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This project stuff never let's me get a clean win. Seems like I always run into something. All the parts came in today so after work I installed the bellhousing, starter, and the tko600. This thing wasn't as heavy as I thought it would be. Didn't need a jack at all.

The first hiccup was the difference between the tko aluminum bellhousing bolts and a t5 bellhousing. The tko browsing uses 7/16- 14 bolts. I found that out after I tried my new bolts and they wouldn't go in by hand. Ran to Home depot at 8:50 ( they close at 9 ). Not a single 7/16 bolt...but you can buy washers though...what a load of crap. They don't even have a spot on the shelf. Left there and headed to O'Riellys. They had the bolts 1.5 inches long. Also, picked up some lock washers.

20201113_191103.jpg


20201113_214930.jpg


To get to this point was a little crazy. I had to remove the shifter ( already knew that ) and had to jack the front of the engine up to tilt the rear down a hair. Transmission slid right in.

Like some have posted over the years my tko is hitting the top of the transmission tunnel...right at the first rib after the shifter hole. The instructions for the Stiffler crossmember says to use one of their flat spacers under the trans mount ( takes the place of exhaust hanger do- dad ) and to use the spacers from the tko install kit above the mount. They are 5/8ths thick. There is no way I could get them in so I ditched the flat spacer and bolted everything in.

The main issue is that the TKO is a c☆nt hair from the tunnel. Easy fix with hammer but it means pulling the transmission back out. The bolts supplied with the spacers are too long. I had to add washers to keep from running out of threads on the bolts.

After looking at all this junk I glance up at where the speedo gear is supposed to go in the trans....the bolt is so long that there's no way it won't be in the way.

I slid out from under the car and decided to let it rest. Tomorrow I've got to make another bolt run to grab shorter bolts. I'll also swing past HF for a magnetic base angle finder to set my driveline angle. I could always measure from the line across the crossmember bolt holes and down to the mounting point of the mount...then measure both transmissions from output shaft to the base of the trans mount pad. Measure the height of the mount and hanger, do some quick math, and figure out the exact height needed to put the driveshaft at the same height as the t5. I should've measured down from the tunnel to the output shaft before I removed it but I'm stupid like that sometimes.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
5,376
4,463
203
42
This project stuff never let's me get a clean win. Seems like I always run into something. All the parts came in today so after work I installed the bellhousing, starter, and the tko600. This thing wasn't as heavy as I thought it would be. Didn't need a jack at all.

The first hiccup was the difference between the tko aluminum bellhousing bolts and a t5 bellhousing. The tko browsing uses 7/16- 14 bolts. I found that out after I tried my new bolts and they wouldn't go in by hand. Ran to Home depot at 8:50 ( they close at 9 ). Not a single 7/16 bolt...but you can buy washers though...what a load of crap. They don't even have a spot on the shelf. Left there and headed to O'Riellys. They had the bolts 1.5 inches long. Also, picked up some lock washers.

20201113_191103.jpg


20201113_214930.jpg


To get to this point was a little crazy. I had to remove the shifter ( already knew that ) and had to jack the front of the engine up to tilt the rear down a hair. Transmission slid right in.

Like some have posted over the years my tko is hitting the top of the transmission tunnel...right at the first rib after the shifter hole. The instructions for the Stiffler crossmember says to use one of their flat spacers under the trans mount ( takes the place of exhaust hanger do- dad ) and to use the spacers from the tko install kit above the mount. They are 5/8ths thick. There is no way I could get them in so I ditched the flat spacer and bolted everything in.

The main issue is that the TKO is a c☆nt hair from the tunnel. Easy fix with hammer but it means pulling the transmission back out. The bolts supplied with the spacers are too long. I had to add washers to keep from running out of threads on the bolts.

After looking at all this junk I glance up at where the speedo gear is supposed to go in the trans....the bolt is so long that there's no way it won't be in the way.

I slid out from under the car and decided to let it rest. Tomorrow I've got to make another bolt run to grab shorter bolts. I'll also swing past HF for a magnetic base angle finder to set my driveline angle. I could always measure from the line across the crossmember bolt holes and down to the mounting point of the mount...then measure both transmissions from output shaft to the base of the trans mount pad. Measure the height of the mount and hanger, do some quick math, and figure out the exact height needed to put the driveshaft at the same height as the t5. I should've measured down from the tunn to the output shaft before I removed it but I'm stupid like that sometimes.
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
This project stuff never let's me get a clean win. Seems like I always run into something. All the parts came in today so after work I installed the bellhousing, starter, and the tko600. This thing wasn't as heavy as I thought it would be. Didn't need a jack at all.

The first hiccup was the difference between the tko aluminum bellhousing bolts and a t5 bellhousing. The tko browsing uses 7/16- 14 bolts. I found that out after I tried my new bolts and they wouldn't go in by hand. Ran to Home depot at 8:50 ( they close at 9 ). Not a single 7/16 bolt...but you can buy washers though...what a load of crap. They don't even have a spot on the shelf. Left there and headed to O'Riellys. They had the bolts 1.5 inches long. Also, picked up some lock washers.

20201113_191103.jpg


20201113_214930.jpg


To get to this point was a little crazy. I had to remove the shifter ( already knew that ) and had to jack the front of the engine up to tilt the rear down a hair. Transmission slid right in.

Like some have posted over the years my tko is hitting the top of the transmission tunnel...right at the first rib after the shifter hole. The instructions for the Stiffler crossmember says to use one of their flat spacers under the trans mount ( takes the place of exhaust hanger do- dad ) and to use the spacers from the tko install kit above the mount. They are 5/8ths thick. There is no way I could get them in so I ditched the flat spacer and bolted everything in.

The main issue is that the TKO is a c☆nt hair from the tunnel. Easy fix with hammer but it means pulling the transmission back out. The bolts supplied with the spacers are too long. I had to add washers to keep from running out of threads on the bolts.

After looking at all this junk I glance up at where the speedo gear is supposed to go in the trans....the bolt is so long that there's no way it won't be in the way.

I slid out from under the car and decided to let it rest. Tomorrow I've got to make another bolt run to grab shorter bolts. I'll also swing past HF for a magnetic base angle finder to set my driveline angle. I could always measure from the line across the crossmember bolt holes and down to the mounting point of the mount...then measure both transmissions from output shaft to the base of the trans mount pad. Measure the height of the mount and hanger, do some quick math, and figure out the exact height needed to put the driveshaft at the same height as the t5. I should've measured down from the tunn to the output shaft before I removed it but I'm stupid like that sometimes.
Dude, you don't know how im reading all of this saying to myself " been there, done that"...if anybody can, I can literally say I feel your pain.
7/16" bolts are automotive only..thats why the home depots of the world don't stock them.
They do have mag base angle finders though....just bought mine last week in order to determine that my pinion had twisted to 20 degrees.
I had that 4l80 in/out 4 times between test fitting, and fixing the fck ups..You may as well suck it up, remove the thing and properly clearance the tunnel, and be done with it or risk some rattle, or vibration that makes noise due to the contact.
 
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Monkeybutt2000

Advanced Member
Aug 11, 2019
429
287
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49
Lafayette,IN
I think I covered the bolts in my build thread,shoulda' checked it out ;) I have room between my trans and tunnel,but there's no way I could use the Stiffler kit with their spacer. Wonder if you could slide hammer the tunnel,would save trans removal.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
5,376
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Dude, you don't know how im reading all of this saying to myself " been there, done that"...if anybody can, I can literally say I feel your pain.
7/16" bolts are automotive only..thats why the home depots of the world don't stock them.
They do have mag base angle finders though....just bought mine last week in order to determine that my pinion had twisted to 20 degrees.
I had that 4l80 in/out 4 times between test fitting, and fixing the fck ups..You may as well suck it up, remove the thing and properly clearance the tunnel, and be done with it or risk some rattle, or vibration that makes noise due to the contact.
20201114_092145.jpg


I clearanced it this morning. Taking the trans back out was too easy not to get that metal moved. It looks a whole lot better now. My neighbors loved it at 9 am this morning.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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I think I covered the bolts in my build thread,shoulda' checked it out ;) I have room between my trans and tunnel,but there's no way I could use the Stiffler kit with their spacer. Wonder if you could slide hammer the tunnel,would save trans removal.

No way to slide hammer my tunnel. There's another piece above it...and the interior.

How do ya think I found the right size for the bolts ? :nice:
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Exhaust is hanging under the car to the mufflers. They'd be on now but the tailpipes and muffler pipes are the same size. This means I need to cut the tailpipes and adapt them to the mufflers. The Kooks resonators are now gone.

20201114_150534.jpg
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Got the exhaust on the car....everything except the clamps. Had to cut 2.75 inches off the tailpipes near the muffler connection. Chopped some 2.5 inch exhaust pipes down to 7 inches long. Got the job done. No pics yet. I want to pull the stainless parts off and polish it up. Also, want to paint the raw steel adapters.

The coilovers went on today. No big issues. For the record....Strange coilovers do fit OEM Spectrum struts very well. The coilover sleeve measures 2.2 inches inside.

20201119_195758.jpg


There is a very small amount of play...the thickness of masking tape.



20201119_202010.jpg


The top cap has 4 tack welds. Popped them of with a chisel and hammer. Painted them with semi gloss black engine enamel...perfect match.

20201119_195506.jpg


20201119_201419.jpg


20201119_201724.jpg


Found some bump stops at O'Riellys in stock. Had to trim a ring around the foam thingy and cut a 45 degree angle at the bottom opening to get it over the strut shaft. Fit very well. The MM coilovers are the only ones I've seen with bump stops. I like the idea. The strange coilover top piece looked like it was made for one.

20201119_201539.jpg


20201119_201441.jpg


20201119_201446.jpg


One last little time bit. The piece that cover the needle bearing assembly was a little tight on the top of the strut. I sanded the strut down a little with some 80 grit followed by a red scotch bright pad. Now it slides on and off with no fear of getting stuck.

20201119_204245.jpg


For one time in my life I didn't get antiseize all over everything aincluding myself. Thats a win in my book. I did have to relocate my brake hose brackets...but that was easy using existing holes. Not really satisfied with how my brake lines look but I'll make new ones at a later date.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Here's the finished product before I put them on the car.

20201119_204538.jpg


I used peanut butter ( high temp disc brake bearing grease ) on the needle bearings and races.

They came out good but I may have to up my spring rate. These are 170lbs. For the weight of my front end I should probably have 225lbs on there. Not a huge deal...Summit brand springs are less than 45 bucks a piece. We shall see.
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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I'm not sure what the exact length of the bump stop should be but that puppy looks a little long.
I'd cut it in half,limiting bump travel that much seems a little extreme.
I agree, by the time you load the front end weight on the strut, i think the rubber thing will be smashed.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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I agree, by the time you load the front end weight on the strut, i think the rubber thing will be smashed.

Adjusted 5 inches from the bottom it'll take 4 inches. The spring rungs are almost 1 inch apart. We'll see what happens. The good thing about foam bump stops is they always can be trimmed down.