Dyno graphs

jman_b13

Founding Member
Jul 27, 2000
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Edmond/Norman OK
My current dyno.

well for those who don't visit turboford, I dynoed my car on saturday, here are the results, the hp is a little down, but several people have suggested its because of the knock sensor, but my torque is wicked high.
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bhuff30 said:
maybe you didn't see my post on TF, but what kind of boost controller are you running? Are you sure it isn't letting the boost creep up to 21, then dropping down to 19?


woops didn't see your post, and if you look higher up in the thread on turboford, you'll notice I said the boost spikes up 1-2psi and then settles at 19. its a ric gillis valve.
 
that helps to explain some of it. looking at where the torque leveled off, you can consider the torque from 19psi to be 20ft*lbs lower. but 280 is still pretty high for 217hp.
I see you have an adjustable cam pulley. Did you degree it in, and what is it set at? You might be able to pick up some wicked horsepower by retarding it 6-8 degrees.
Don't even get me started on what I really think of the RR. :stick:
 
jman_b13 said:
woops didn't see your post, and if you look higher up in the thread on turboford, you'll notice I said the boost spikes up 1-2psi and then settles at 19. its a ric gillis valve.
Mine hits 17 and then settles at 15.
I'm glad it isn't just mine though I feel bad for both of us.
 
bhuff, interesting results.. I would have thought you'd have gotten higher HP as well. In your list of mods, you don't say anything about the head, so that's still stock, correct?

My gillis valve spikes to 22 and then comes down to 20. I did the drinking straw around the spring trick this past weekend and it didn't make any difference. The straw is supposed to be the length of the spring when it's fully compressed, right? I wonder if (I bet) the vacuum line length from the vac tree matters?
 
I run my source off of the turbo also. the hose length between the turbo and valve is like 6-8 inches, and between the valve and the wastegate is like 8-10 inches. so its not exactly a long amount. the reason I think the boost spikes, is because the spring holds everything closed until the set boost is reached, which then it opens the valve, the problem is that boost comes on so fast in my car that if the valve waits till the set boost to open, then by the time the wastegate opens, the boost has gone a little higher, but once the gate gets open then boost chills where its supposed to be.
 
Brantley said:
bhuff, interesting results.. I would have thought you'd have gotten higher HP as well. In your list of mods, you don't say anything about the head, so that's still stock, correct?

My gillis valve spikes to 22 and then comes down to 20. I did the drinking straw around the spring trick this past weekend and it didn't make any difference. The straw is supposed to be the length of the spring when it's fully compressed, right? I wonder if (I bet) the vacuum line length from the vac tree matters?

are you asking about my head? if so yes it is still stock.
 
My gillis has only had the spike problem a few times...both times I've taken it apart, cleaned it, and put it back together and the problem has went away. Mine goes up to 19.5psi and stops...no spiking.

Stinger
 
Stinger said:
My gillis has only had the spike problem a few times...both times I've taken it apart, cleaned it, and put it back together and the problem has went away. Mine goes up to 19.5psi and stops...no spiking.

Stinger

gillis valve is clean. it spikes 2psi no matter if i'm running 19psi or 12psi
 
Fastest 2.3 turbo?

Hey guys,
I was just wondering how bad@ss these little 2.3 turbos can get? How many ponies can you guys push with all the right mods? What the 1/4 mile times on these beasts?

Thanks,
John :nice: