Dyno Results

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by [email protected], Oct 1, 2004.

  1. Are you sure it's not holding you back? A 327 with the parts you have should lay down more than 310 :shrug: JMO though.
  2. Ray - at wide open throttle, the ecu goes into open loop and ignores the O2 sensor input. If they were malfunctioning you should be getting check engine lights/error codes.
  3. :stupid:
  4. good, because I am enjoying my popcorn :) :nice:
  5. * Pats everyone eating popcorn on the back *
  6. Dam get this $hit, I took the motor out when doing everything because I had a oil leak of wich we thought was the oil pan & I just got back from the the muffler shopping having a tailpipe adjusted & o2 sensors replaced & I got the same dam oil leak again.
  7. Welcome to our world....sorry about the leak; I'm sure you'll find it.
  8. Alright I know it's the rear main but I heard I can get a block with everything & cam for about $600.00 from advanced auto parts is this right or is autozone anybetter, any suggestions ?
  9. actually, you should be able to get a low mileage shortblock locally pretty cheap. check local classifieds and mustang clubs
  10. I'd pay that kind of money for a low mileage JY Explorer engine before I'd buy from Autozone or other outlet.
  11. Well I'm not looking for anything used, mine has only 64k on it right now & in excellent condition just needs rear main seal just trying to save some time & trouble that's all...
  12. Are you sure it's the seal that's bad? Brand new seals will leak if there's too much crankcase pressure. Are you sure there's not too much blow-by or that the pcv system is working properly?
  13. honestly, it isn't that difficult if you jack up the car and do it with it still in. that way you don't have to take it out....just drop the oil pan.
  14. If it's a 5.0, you don't have to drop the pan for the rear main seal - pull the trans, bellhousing, clutch, take off the flywheel and pull the 1-piece seal & replace. If it's the pan, you could try to tighten it first.

    To Mikes' point, try a new PCV valve and JUST as important - a new PCV filter screen just below it.
  15. then I stand corrected. I seem to remember dropping the pan when we did mine awhile ago but I can't remember if we were doing something else too. my apologies. I do remember that it was easier in the car than out though. lol
  16. This is what I got, oil running down the plate inbetween the block & flywheel "the plate that bolts to the bellhousing" honestly I don't know if it's the pcv valve or not but if I'm not mistaken the pcv valve is the little black plug thing that plugs in the lower intake manifold right, it has a rubber hose that connects to the upper right, I looked @ it & there is not a drop of oil around it, would this tell you any better ?

    How do I check compression ?
  17. Ray - the pcv valve - pcv stands for positive crankcase ventilation - is designed to ventilate the crankcase into the intake manifold. Under high vacuum conditions like idle the manifold actually 'sucks' metered air through the crankcase from the little tube that connects the throttle body to the valve cover nipple. Under low/no vacuum conditions like wide open throttle, crankcase pressure increases and it vents through both lines - ultimately all that goes back through the engine and gets combusted. If that system isn't working properly, OR if the engine has more blowby than the pcv system can deal with (older tired engines, younger beat-on engines with tired rings) then crankcase pressure can build more quickly than the pcv system can vent it. In those circumstances, the pressure will find the 'weakest link' to vent itself from the engine. Frequently the weakest links are the seals on both ends and the valve cover gaskets. And frequently the pressure takes engine oil out with it. The result is a leak that many people think is caused by a bad gasket or seal, only to find when they replace it, it keeps leaking. There's no way over the internet to know what's causing yours - it could actually be a bad seal - but I lay out the whole story so you'll know what the possibilities are. One of the other symptoms of high crankcase pressures is the engine will blow the dipstick out under heavy throttle. Have you seen any of that?

    To test the cylinder seal cranking compression tests or leak down tests should give you some more data with which to determine how your engine is behaving.
  18. Sounds easier to just replace the seal by dropping the tranny :spot:
  19. ....if it's the seal that's causing the problem....
  20. Mine is dry as a bone - no leaks, and doesn't burn a drop between 3000 mi. oil changes. With that engine, when I had freshly rebuilt it, I was playing around with different crankcase ventilation set ups. Some were more effective than others. At one point, with a brand new build (gaskets, seals, etc.) I had it leaking from both valve covers and both front and rear seals. Once I put it back to the stock PCV configuration, all leaks ceased. Was under it this morning - 14K miles - dry as a bone. So a brand new seal will leak like a sieve if the crankcase pressure is out of whack.