Progress Thread She’s a runner

Short list of needed parts
Head studs
bushings for studs
head gaskets
intake gaskets
clutch (talk to steve)
MM clutch cable
line lock (because smokey burnouts, not sorry lol)
3g alternator
contour fans? not sure i'm gonna go elec. fan yet
 
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What are these washers for that came with my k member and A-arms. They were in the A-arm box with the zero fittings and cotter pins.
 

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Found this picture on upr website. Looks like they go on the balljoints. There’s no mention of it anywhere that I could find just spotted on this zoomed in pic.
 

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Those washers are if you have sn95 spindles to correct the issue of the taper on the ball jOint . If you still have fox spindles don’t use them
 
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Slow progress but I’m taking my time. It’s a long winter. Here’s some pictures. Coil overs, k-member, engine bay and the engine. Cleaned it up, replaced oil pump and resealed pan and got a coat of paint on the block and pan. Still need to finish sorting out wiring but I’m about half way through then I’ll reloom and secure to firewall just above tunnel.
 

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I used a standard pt333? On my 393, the 306 got MLS gaskets but unless you plan to feed that blower with a turbo they are not worth the money.
Ok. I just keep hearing not to use standard head gaskets over 10psi. Could be people using an abundance of caution. Knowing my luck though I’ll pop it and be banging my head against the wall for not using mls or copper. I got time to think about it.
 
Doesn't your quench measurement also dictate what head gaskets you are limited to picking from? Some of these HG's are 0.040" thick and if your pistons are 0.010" in the hole, it doesn't really give you an ideal quench number
 
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Doesn't your quench measurement also dictate what head gaskets you are limited to picking from? Some of these HG's are 0.040" thick and if your pistons are 0.010" in the hole, it doesn't really give you an ideal quench number
True but you can get the thickness you need from cometic. I believe the stock gaskets were at .039/.040 compressed. Once i get the heads off I'll see where the pistons are on this engine. It is a stock 87 bottom end but I've read there may be some variation so I'll get good measurements and do the math.
 
Mine measured 0.000-0.003" out of the hole, but I've seen numbers all over the place on OEM untouched shortblocks.
Ya seems like they’re all over the place. I don’t think they were in the hole the last time I had heads off, at least with my eyeball measuring device lol. I’ll bet they’re 0 or slightly out. I’m gonna shoot for ~35-38 quench
 
we run coppers on the X car and MLS on my car... head gasket material, thickness, and style are all based on the build. on a full out max effort race motor coppers are 100% the way to go. but a street motor we prefer the MLS/MLX. both come with their own ups and downs. a copper head gasket acts like a fuse... you'll torch a gasket before you torch a head.... BUT they arent exactly known for sealing real well. so we run a top fuel hoop around the cylinder. then we RTV the drain backs.
the MLS/MLX seal great... BUT... you need to have a 50Ra or better surface finish on both block and head, and they dont act like a fuse. so if you are going to lean on the tune up (not talking forum guys lean on it... i mean REALLY LEAN on it 1/2* shy of turning things into scrap lean on it).

a composite head gasket will hold up just fine for 99% of people... work as a fuse and seal good.
 
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Got the new booster and master cylinder installed as well as line loc and proportioning valve. Gonna try to get this thing on wheels so I can turn it around and get going on torque boxes. Gonna use the fog lamp switch for the line loc and a buddy is making a decal like I have in the picture.
 

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