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Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by OonDeanisS, Nov 27, 2003.
anyone have it? anyone know the part #? price? Reviews?
ttt sorry but noone has responded (obviously)
I would get a maximum motorsports road/track kit with H&R springs and maybe bilsteins...
Ya, the sportline. It drops the car nicely. Ride is a little rough, I run tokico 5-way and it smoothed the ride a lot. I run autocross and like the Eibach sportline springs. Cost around 225-250.
I got the sportlines also in my car and love them! The ride is a little rough but heck, it rips corners, i still need struts and shocks so that will smooth it out some.
but i can get the road race kit for 200 flat, so shouldnt i just do that? It drops the car 2.5 inches and rides like a racecar. So thats what i did and now im waiting for them to get here this week, but i need to know if i can run my stock struts/shocks with the road race kit. So can i?? My brother told me that if i dont replace the shocks and struts, the old ones could ruin the new springs, but my shocks arent bad, so i dont know what to do, because i dont want to wait a month to save for struts and shocks before getting springs on. Please give me your advice, and sorry for rambling.
You should get some new shocks with that amount of a drop. You could possibly bottom out the stock shocks. I suppose you could try it out for a while, if you dont mind maybe breaking a shock or two. I havent heard of the road race kit. Is it a new line Eibach has out now thats higher performance than the Sportlines?
its on their website, not new though. Its made for SCCA racing
With a 2.5" drop you are going to have a serious problem with bump steer. Also, you will be in need of some C/C plates if you don't have them already. You can use your stock shocks and struts, but the shock absorbers are what keep the tires on the road. If you don't mind hitting a bump and flying off the road, keep your stock shock absorbers. It sounds like those springs are pretty stiff.... a soft shock is NOT a very good combo. However, if you are just installing the springs for looks and don't really drive fast you should be fine. The ride quality is going to suffer though. Don't hit me I'm just being honest. This is kind of an old post, did you get the springs installed? How does it look and ride?
road race kit, koni 5 way, polly bushings, and eibach sway bars is the way to go. its the stiffest ride ive EVER felt. feels like a race car, and makes a mustang corner with the best of any cars, but you know that dont you Dean, i was just letting everyone else know
yea wanna let me have the money for some koni's? didnt think so. What is bump steer? I still havent got the springs yet... so ill let you know how it rides when i do. RickLX is my brother, and doesnt have C/C plates and his car rides great, so do i absolutely need them? because im on a very limited budget
Whenever you lower your Fox Body more than 1.5"s you get what is called bumpsteer. Especially with fox bodies made in 1989 and before. The problem comes from the control arms moving up in relation to the steering rack. This changes the geometry and effective length of the steering rods. So, when you hit a bump in a turn, your steering rods move in a different arc than the control arms causing them to turn the front wheels. This causes the car to turn when you didn't tell it to.
C/C plates can change the way your car rides and handles. When you put shorter springs in, your struts are compressed more. Which can cause them to be at the bottom of their stroke when not even hitting a bump. So of course they bottom out when you do hit a big bump. Specifically, the MM C/C plates.... they raise the top of the strut shaft by 1" or more effectively adding 1" to the travel of your strut to prevent them from bottoming out. They also make the car handle better by allowing you to adjust your camber and caster to the appropriate settings. I have 4 degrees positive caster and 1 degree negative camber. Sometimes lowering your car without adj. C/C plates will cause excessive negative camber, which is really bad for tire wear.
I understand you are on a limited budget, but if you don't buy the C/C plates you will probably be buying new front tires in the near future. I don't know about you, but my front tires are more expensive than the C/C plates.
so which CC plates should i get? how much are they? whats better about them than others? where can i get them? How do i set them correctly?
Just so there is no misunderstanding, C/C plates will NOT fix a bump steer problem.
I just installed my Maximum Motorsports C/C plates last weekend and had my car aligned. The install and alignment went flawlessly.
Write Dave at IVM IVMOTOR@NVBELL.NET Or call him at (775)331-6577. Ask him for a price on MM C/C plates. There is no tax and you should get free shipping too but I'm not sure. Tell him Ken Adams from San Diego sent you and you may get hooked up, but no guarantees. They go for around $190. You can also check ebay, but make sure you get the right C/C plates for your car! 90-93 use different plates than the 89 and older Stangs.
holy crap i dont have 190 to spend so i guess i just have to deal with it until i can save up
I have Eibach Sportlines and using MAC caster/camber plates. I got them for $149. They are about the cheapest you will find. I have KYB struts and shocks. With 16x8 wheels, P225/50 front, P255/50 rear the tires rub in front and rear if you hit any dips in the road, worse in the front. It wasn't too bad when I first put them on but now that the springs have settled it doesn't take much for them to rub. I couldn't imagine having the car lowed 2.5 inches.
mustang dared, on your website the little blond kid looking at your car in the third pic down looks just like me when i was 12 lol
my brother's got the road race kit and the same rims and tires as me(16" ponys with 225/45/60's) and they dont rub at all because the springs are so tight they dont compress much
That's my kid, he's not much into cars yet, playstation addict, lol.