Electric Fan 90 5.0

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Hanksta, Sep 16, 2013.

  1. Alright thanks this was helpful.
  2. Sorry to high jack the thread bit it's so recent I thought why start another? Anyway my e fan power is stuck in the #11 (radio) fuse. It was like that when I bought it, is there a better spot to wire into? Don't know what kind of fan it is.
  3. If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using an electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator on 86-93 Mustangs isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car. If you have a 94 or later Mustang, the stock 3g alternator should be fine if it is working correctly.

    Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.

    The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. www.dccontrol.com. Cost is about $???. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.

    Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$120 See http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?html=pwmv3. eBay will have the controllers for a bargain price: do a Google search and see what you find.

    At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.

    Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30+amps and you need to use #10 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.

    If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.


    Note that the temp sensor in the diagram needs to match the thermostat in your engine. The preferred arrangement is to have it open about 5 degrees above the thermostat.

    To allow the ignition switch to control the fan so that it does not run when the ignition is off, connect the relay contact #86 to the red/green wire on the ignition coil or to the red/yellow wire on the coolant level sensor.

    If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is similar in function to the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
    See my post at http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-sooo-much-amperage-help.859590/#post-8645840 to get the drawings and full details.

    Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

    Tee adapter info:
    Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

  4. Whoops, guess I left out quite a bit of pertinent info. It's a 92 gt, just put the 130 amp alt kit from LRS on, it has the relay/control thing. The power wire is run through the firewall and stuck in with the fuse on the #11 fuse slot. Is there a better place to hook up the power wire and not have to use a switch? Thanks for the expedient reply!!
  5. What controller do you have? Does it have a thermo-switch? We're assuming the control side of the controller goes to fuse 11 (the load side should be fused and come from the battery). Is this true?
  6. A thermostatic control! That's what it's called. Don't remember the brand. It has a pink wire to the battery (power for the fan through the fuse?) and the one to the fuse box is power for the control switch?
  7. The best place to draw power from for an electric fan is the battery side of the starter solenoid.

    Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.
  8. my starter solenoid is about full and i'm pretty sure i just hooked up the 3g alternator straight to the battery, is that bad? back on point, so i can just put an eyehole connector and hook it up to the starter solenoid instead of hooked into the fuse box?
  9. The alternator needs circuit protection on the charge cable.

    The control side of the relay/controller, which is generally connected to accessory power, can go to the fusebox. The circuit-protected wire that supplies power to the fan motor needs to come from the battery or the battery-lug on the solenoid.
    jrichker likes this.
  10. By protection you mean the fuse? It was a kit and came with a fuse in the larger 3g compatible wire.

    so it won't hurt anything being connected directly to the battery (with a fuse of course)?
  11. I wasn't asking for opinions on the fan I was just asking how to hook it up.

    No opinions? ok, No problem. You wire it to the starter solenoid, key on side, and find a body ground. That's how you hook it up. We're trying to help, but it seems you have all the answers. Good luck on your first hot day. Bring plenty of water.
  12. Who is this directed towards?
  13. This is the best answer you are going to get on this issue. Follow the instructions that HISSIN50 gave you and you will be good to go and stay out of trouble.

    I probably could bury you in electrical theory about why this advice is so good, but you are not likely to understand it. If you really want to know, ask for the theory behind the advice and I will take the time to explain it to you.
  14. @jrichker when you said hook it up to the starter solenoid did you mean the fan or the control? It seems to me like there would be a better place to hook up the control power than shoving the wire in with a fuse in the fuse box?
  15. [​IMG]this is how it is currently hooked up
  16. Picture no worky...

    Between the diagrams I posted and HISSIN50's instructions, you have the best answer for your question.

    You can use the red/green wire on the ignition coil to power the relay coil. I would add a 2 amp fuse to protect the wiring and ignition circuit if you use the red/green wire.
  17. the pictures don't pull up on my phone but i can see them fine on my computer. at any rate thanks for the help and i'll see about hooking up to the solenoid.
  18. Me I guess. I tried to inform him that the fan he has won't cool a honda much less a 5.0 based on the advertised CFM ratings.

    CFM: 954.1

    Some people learn the hard way. I wouldn't put that fan in my car unless I wanted so see how fast it overheated.
    6ScubA9 likes this.
  19. I installed my mishimoto unit with a dual relay and dual thermostat setup as a stand alone system. Just connected them to a battery pos source. This way your can adjust when one fan or another fan comes on and at what temperature. Also it cools the engine after you shut it down.