Electric Fan Questions:

BAD67FUN

Founding Member
Oct 31, 2001
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Wisconsin
I'm interested in buying one. I have the Mustangs Plus catalog. They show the SPAL and the Flex-a-lite single and dual version. Any opinions on them or what you'd recommend? I'm not sure I like the big bulky mounting brackets of the single blade Flex. Is "thru core" mounting safe or a bad idea? How does the wiring work? Can you control the temperature as to when the fan kicks on? Is it an easy install? etc.....

Thanks.
 
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BAD67FUN said:
I'm interested in buying one. I have the Mustangs Plus catalog. They show the SPAL and the Flex-a-lite single and dual version. Any opinions on them or what you'd recommend? I'm not sure I like the big bulky mounting brackets of the single blade Flex. Is "thru core" mounting safe or a bad idea? How does the wiring work? Can you control the temperature as to when the fan kicks on? Is it an easy install? etc.....

Thanks.

First off, I am 100% against electric fans, however if you want to do it, you don't wnat to tie it to the radiator, you want to make your own brackets and mount it seperatly. You can control them with a temp switch like they do with the newer cars, or a variable adjustible t-stat that you should be able to get aftermarket. They will be wired threw a relay so the switch side will be low current.
 
WORTH said:
First off, I am 100% against electric fans, however if you want to do it, you don't wnat to tie it to the radiator, you want to make your own brackets and mount it seperatly. You can control them with a temp switch like they do with the newer cars, or a variable adjustible t-stat that you should be able to get aftermarket. They will be wired threw a relay so the switch side will be low current.


I don't either, but how else you gonna cool a side mounted engine? When I first got the '04 Buick, I thought it was broke, but it soon kicked on. Only comes on when it is needed.
 
WORTH said:
First off, I am 100% against electric fans, however if you want to do it, you don't wnat to tie it to the radiator, you want to make your own brackets and mount it seperatly. You can control them with a temp switch like they do with the newer cars, or a variable adjustible t-stat that you should be able to get aftermarket. They will be wired threw a relay so the switch side will be low current.

why don't you like them? its a waste of HP that could be going to your wheels
 
JimBowy said:
why don't you like them? its a waste of HP that could be going to your wheels


On my 67. the temp reading is the same even if I climb Pikes Peak. In the '04 Buick, the temp gauge creeps up a bit past half way before the stat kicks it on. Still cools fine, just not steady. Waterpump draw might be 1 to 2 HP, but I have more than I need. Call it old school lame brained thinking.
 
Ozsum2 said:
On my 67. the temp reading is the same even if I climb Pikes Peak. In the '04 Buick, the temp gauge creeps up a bit past half way before the stat kicks it on. Still cools fine, just not steady. Waterpump draw might be 1 to 2 HP, but I have more than I need. Call it old school lame brained thinking.


Actually, I think it's closer to 10hp. But I've never claimed to know everything.

I think Black MAgic has a kit that comes with a relay and adjustable thermostat.
 
mustang70 said:
Actually, I think it's closer to 10hp. But I've never claimed to know everything.

I think Black MAgic has a kit that comes with a relay and adjustable thermostat.



That surprises me. With the belt off, you can just about freewheel the water pump.
 
Ultimately....an electric water pump and fan that work off the same electric thermostat would be great. That way, when you shut your car off, your water pump and fan will continue to run until your engine cools off....better have a good battery though.

Streetortrack.com sells spal fans....just be careful to measure how much room you have between your water pump and your radiator so it will fit.

I bought mine from someplace called. thehotrodstore.com or hotrodstore.com. Little shop out of TN. They had the best prices I could find.

Wiring is easy. The fans come with a plug and everything is pretty much prewired. You just have to wire in a thermostat, ground the fan, have a switched on 12 volt source, and a constant power source if I am not mistaken.

I currently have mine on a toggle switch. If I see the temp even remotely creep up, I just flip it on. I have a thermostat that came with the fan, but I have yet to get it to work.

Black magic or Spal is my Vote. To me, it really cleans up your engine bay also and eliminates the need for a shroud. (since the electric fans sit right on the radiator and technically have a little shroud built on.

Good luck
 
Ozsum2 said:
That surprises me. With the belt off, you can just about freewheel the water pump.


True. But the fan isn't moving a whole lot of air when you spin it by hand. When it gets up to speed and starts moving the air it's going to create more resistance. Car Craft did a dyno test on this a couple months ago and they ran a plastic flex fan on a motor and it cost 15hp. It's not much really, but when you're going for the most power possible..........
 
Just because you're moving from a water pump driven fan to an electric, doesn't mean you just got all that free horsepower... the load switches from spinning the water pump to spinning the alternator for all that extra current draw...
 
slackr said:
Just because you're moving from a water pump driven fan to an electric, doesn't mean you just got all that free horsepower... the load switches from spinning the water pump to spinning the alternator for all that extra current draw...


But unlike the water pump driven fan it's not a constant load.
 
JimBowy said:
why don't you like them? its a waste of HP that could be going to your wheels

A number of reasons,
1) you can't get an electric fan that will pull as much air as an engine driven fan.
2) With an engine driven fan the engine will maintain a more steady temp, heating and cooling hurts everything.
3) your adding another electric component than can fail for no reason, simple is better.
4) wear and tear on your charging system.

And if I need more HP, I'll get a bigger engine :D
 
Don't get the Black Magic (part# 150) because it is too thick. They have a similar fan that is thinner (part# 475) that has all the same features and will fit our classics.
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/electric-fans.html

The Black Magic style fans have a thermostat built in that rests up against the radiator and have a knob to adjust the kick on point. You can also get a thermostat control that screws into the block/thermostat housing that has a preset kick on and kick off point.
http://centechwire.com/catalog/cooling/fc3.shtml

A new one I found (installed it but haven't had a chance to really test it out) is one that connects to your temp gauge and has adjustable kick on, manual override, A/C kick on, etc.
http://centechwire.com/catalog/cooling/fc2p.shtml
 
i've been thinking about converting to an electric fan also. my mechanical fan cannot keep the car cool when sitting in traffic. mostly because of the underdrive pulleys. but i also believe the electric fan will be more effective at cooling. my car never runs hot when it is moving. the airflow thru the front R-apron and front opening are more than adequate to keep it cool when it is moving. the problem is when its idling in traffic the an is spinning too slow to draw enough air thru causing the temp to creep up. a powerful electric fan should prevent this from happening. i hear lots of good things about derale fans. i think they are narrow and have curved blades which supposedly helps to draw more air thru.
 
WORTH said:
A number of reasons,
1) you can't get an electric fan that will pull as much air as an engine driven fan.
2) With an engine driven fan the engine will maintain a more steady temp, heating and cooling hurts everything.
3) your adding another electric component than can fail for no reason, simple is better.
4) wear and tear on your charging system.

And if I need more HP, I'll get a bigger engine :D

1. Don't have stats to back it up but my spal seems to move much more air at idle than my old stocker. At higher speeds maybe the stocker moves more, but in reality moving down the road at 70 mph is what is really moving the air when I'm running at speed.

2. My fan is wired to come on anytime I start the car and temp is very very steady.

3. Agreed that it's just another electrical component that can fail, HOWEVER there is not a FAN BELT THAT CAN ALSO FAIL.

4. An alternater cost about nothing. My motor has driven 10 to 20 degrees lower cooler in stop and go with my spal and that's worth a dozen alternators.

A bigger motor and an electrical fan are not mutually exclusive.

Not an expert but don't Mercedes, Ferarri, Porsche and less impressive Honda, Toyota, Ford, GM..... use electrical fans??? I can't think pretty much everyone has switched because it's less efficient and reliable.

Then again I thought my first fiance wasn't an evil shrew from the deepest pits of the abyss, so I could be wrong.
 
I was thinking about an electric fan but, luckily for me, the radiator sprang a leak. I pulled the rad, took it to my pal's rad shop and he sealed it up and boiled out the rad while he had it there. I think I had about 20 years worth of crap in there. With a clean rad, a stock shroud and the 5 or 6 blade fan engine driven fan, my temp never goes about 1/2, even with AC and in town driving with temps in excess of 95.

Point here is not to assume that heating is caused by a crappy fan. You may have a radiator or rad hoses full of crap that is restricting water flow.

(Look at me. The good doctor almost sounds like he knows what he is talking about! :rolleyes: :D :nice: )

YMMV

--P