Electrical Help Urgent!! Hissin50, Everyone!!

[str8stang036]

I have been working on a project car for a while now, and I am finally at the point of starting it. It has oil, gas, everything is connected(so I think), but I am having major electrical issues. I had a previous thread about blowing a fuse, well I figured out why.

I then tried to start it, it did a couple rotations but didnt start. I turned the key again but when I did I noticed smoke coming from one of the wires right below the drivers side rocker panel. It had melted a wire completely through the insulation from the big connector it comes from. My dad and I removed the dash and traced the wire to the instrument panel and the radio area. We looked in the haynes manual and it looks like instrument panel lighting. We cleaned everything up, but now the started does fire but before it did.

I have to say the car was previously an automatic and I remember reading that when the conversion is done there is a cable that remains from the auto tranny that may not let the car start if not pulled or pushed. I tried that, i pushed , pulled it and tried starting the car and nothing.

Please guys help me out!! Its been a long time in the making, its a father & son car. It means a great deal to me. I am so close but so far. I will take pics to guide you guys in the search for results.

 

[chuck943]

how did you bypass the neutral saftey switch from the automatic transmission?

 

[str8stang036]

I haven't. I also tried that. I pushed the clutch pedal in and nothing.

 

[chuck943]

I haven't. I also tried that. I pushed the clutch pedal in and nothing.

What did you do with the connector from the switch on the automatic tranny?
What did you try?(2nd thing in your reply)
Did you wire up a clutch pedal switch?

Current has to go from R/LB wire thru switch to W/PK wire in switch for starter to engage.

 

[str8stang036]

What connector switch? I am using a manual tranny harness now.
Now that you say r/lb wire, thats the one that burnt! Does the r/lb wire come from this big black connector by the feet of the drivers side rocker panel?

funny thing is that it cranked before any of this happen, with no bypass switch or clutch pedal depressed.

 

[chuck943]

So I think I'm with you now,you installed wiring harness also during auto to manual swap.
Can you supply ignition switched voltage to W/PK wire at clutch switch to see if it will start then?

 

[bmac50]

So I think I'm with you now,you installed wiring harness also during auto to manual swap.
Can you supply ignition switched voltage to W/PK wire at clutch switch to see if it will start then?

 

[str8stang036]

I am going to try it tomorrow, thanks for the help so far.

Where is that connector you are showing me?

 

[chuck943]

I think he said he has done away with this connector.
This is the switch or commonly known as the TR sensor on the automatic trans.

 

[str8stang036]

the w/pk wire and the r/lb where are they located? I think we are talking about the same area, but I want to make sure.I will get some pics tomorrow to help us out.

 

[chuck943]

It leaves the Ignition switch as W/PK to connector c218 (this is a gray 14 pin connector behind IP at the left cowl area)it changes to R/LB at this connector and then goes to another connector in the same area c253 (shop manual does not tell what color or how many pins in this one).From there it goes to your clutch pedal switch (if you have installed this)it leaves this connector as W/PK and goes to starter relay unless you have remote keyless entry(if you have this then let me know and I will give you the other connector locations).

 

[str8stang036]

Here are some pics so that I can better orient myself about what to do.

This picture shows the cable that overheated and melted off the insulation. Its from the connector by the drivers side feet on rocker panel. Its r/lb.

Another view of the connector I am talking about.

This is the clutch switch you have been talking about. Let me know what you think.

Thanks

 

[chuck943]

The melted wire appears to be the ckt that is suppose to be going to clutch pedal switch according to wiring schematic but the wire colors are not jiving at the switch?

One other thing I can't really tell from pic because of damage to isulation but the wiring to instrument illumination is LB/R, make sure thats not the wire u see melted, the fuse should be blown on that ckt what ever it is to see if it is fuse 13 in fuse panel is blown,that is to the instrument illumination.

If it is to the cutch switch that one comes from ignition switch itself.

 

[str8stang036]

to my knowledge from looking at the haynes book, it is the illumination wire. I had cut it up by the instrument cluster connectors for illumination for the autometer gauges. If the fuse blew, then why would the wire melt?

today I checked continuity for the starter cables, and I didn't get any with the ignition on. I do get voltage at the ignition switch, but not the w/pk.

what is ckt

 

[chuck943]

circuit

did the schematics help?

 

[HISSIN50]

I do get voltage at the ignition switch, but not the w/pk.

So when you turn the key to the crank position and are testing right at your ignition switch, the starter interlock circuit wire (crank wire) is NOT showing 12 volts? That's not sounding too hot.

 

[str8stang036]

no when I turn it to ignition and test at the switch it does give me voltage. Its at the starter wire w/pnk that I dont get anything.

 

[chuck943]

may be a dumb question but are u measuring it in the start position or run postion. it should only have voltage while u hold it in start postion.

 

[str8stang036]

I got it!!! I found the culprit!! It was one of the ignition 40amp fuses in the engine fuse box. Now I get it to crank, but it wont start!!

Its a brand new engine, you guys think it already comes with timing adjusted?