Electrical Eliminate Starter Solenoid?

RekeHavoc

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Have any of you guys with a mini-starter eliminated your fender-mounted starter solenoid? My understanding is that it can be replaced with a standard SPST 30A relay in this scenario.

Are any of you guys using a junction block for power distribution? Are there any issues with cranking amps going through these junction blocks if I were to put batt+, alt and starter power cables on the same post?

Or would it be a better idea to leave all of the starting/charging cables on the starter solenoid and piggyback a junction block for all of the smaller gauge wires?

I'm currently working on a wire tuck trying to clean up as much of the engine bay as possible.

jegs1.jpg jegs2.jpg
 
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jrichker

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You better get a handle on what kind of wiring you are messing with....


Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang
attachments\52294

Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.
attachments\53216\
 
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RekeHavoc

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Yeah, I have a 3G alt and mini-starter which mirrors the 2nd diagram above. I have capped off the 2 10 AWG orange/black alt wires.
 
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Mustang5L5

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Yes, what you say can be done. Many have done it. Just use a relay to activate the starter relay that is physically located on the starter.

The main issue Is the distribution block. Many of the cheap Amazon/eBay blocks are not robust enough and can break over time.

I plan to do the same with my car but haven’t selected a distribution block yet. I’ve been looking at OEM GM blocks rather than aftermarket. I just don’t trust them
 
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RekeHavoc

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Hmm, yeah, you are confirming what I am afraid of. I will be interested to see what you come up with. Thanks for the help!
 

7991LXnSHO

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The typical Ford starter solenoid is really a big, multi terminal relay. In the second schematic, it still acts like a relay, but it is sending only a signal to the more typical on starter solenoid and Bendix kick out coil. I cannot see the points sticking and welding with a low battery like the stock set up can.
If you have extra wires that need power, a properly installed distribution block should be safer than trying to get everything on one solenoid terminal.
 

Mustang5L5

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I think the issues is if you read reviews for many of those cheapo blocks, they break off at the terminal.

I was looking at something like this. I have more trust in these. I just haven’t selected the model I think I can make look ok in the engine bay.

E400A6A6-D473-48D1-A007-55A5900A9067.png
 

sd331

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you can use the 94-04 mustang power distribution box..
 

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RekeHavoc

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I don't know if I could stomach installing any GM parts on my car lol.

Something like this could possibly work, too, I suppose. This is from a Volvo S60.

volvo1.jpg volvo2.jpg
 

90sickfox

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The cheapest distribution block comes off the mid 80s to mid 90s chevy trucks. Its located under a plastic cover on the passenger side of the firewall. They'll handle just about everything you can throw at them.

Screenshot_20200803-224522_Chrome.jpg
 
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Rdub6

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Yes, what you say can be done. Many have done it. Just use a relay to activate the starter solenoid that is physically located on the starter.

The main issue Is the distribution block. Many of the cheap Amazon/eBay blocks are not robust enough and can break over time.

I plan to do the same with my car but haven’t selected a distribution block yet. I’ve been looking at OEM GM blocks rather than aftermarket. I just don’t trust them

Now you say you don’t trust them, after you led me to my eBay block! Lol. No issues yet though. Fingers crossed!
 
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Rdub6

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It starts here. Just filter through the mish mash, and you’ll get what I did.

 
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RekeHavoc

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Is there any difference in connecting power cables (e.g. electric fans, fuel pump, amplifiers) directly to the battery vs. to the starter solenoid?

If I were to add a junction block, should I connect it directly to the battery or to the starter solenoid? Or does it even matter?
 

90sickfox

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Less connections the better. I ran a wire straight from the battery to the junction block. I did this mainly because I relocated my wiring to behind the fender. My solenoid is still used but also relocated. I have a bunch if aftermarket stuff and needed the extra space the junction block gained. If you locate them behind the fender I recommend using a mega fuse 200 or 250amp on the wire leading from the battery. If that wire is pinched in an accident it will smoke up pretty quick. ( not that we ever want to think about an accident...but they do happen )
 
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Blown88GT

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The typical Ford starter solenoid is really a big, multi terminal relay. In the second schematic, it still acts like a relay, but it is sending only a signal to the more typical on starter solenoid and Bendix kick out coil. I cannot see the points sticking and welding with a low battery like the stock set up can.
If you have extra wires that need power, a properly installed distribution block should be safer than trying to get everything on one solenoid terminal.
It acts like a relay because it is a relay & not a solenoid.
 

RekeHavoc

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Do any of you guys happen to know what the typical maximum amperage draw would be from the battery (fuel pump, headlights, foglights, wipers, A/C, radio all on)? 75-80A?
 
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7991LXnSHO

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That is half my point. The other half is it is misnamed, and the name “starter solenoid” is what a replacement from most suppliers will be called. Ford might call it a starter relay, but the NAPA counterperson probably will not.
It acts like a relay because it is a relay & not a solenoid.