Engine Engine Crank But No Start

[RazerDev2014]

This morning I had woke up and I started my car to let it warm up ( it was 23 degrees F and ice all over) and I went inside to finish getting read and came back out 5 minutes later and it was idling like it was misfiring and then upon me trying to keep it alive it just died and its only been cranking ever since, ive checked the fuel pressure and the fuel pressure is great, I changed out the coil pack and that didnt change anything, what else could it be? It was running perfect when I started it and let its idle go down then I went inside and came back to it running bad and died, the battery is fully charged, could it be a bad ground possibly? Its a 96 mustang with a 98 3.8 in it, ive had zero issues until this morning, any helps would be amazing!

 

[wmburns]

Here's some information that may be of help.

1996+ Crank with no start check list
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html#2984838

Is there some reason why you thought to change the coil packs? Any previous work done on this car?

If asking for an educated guess with no real test results I would guess an issue related to MAF especially if the fuel pressure has been verified.

Do you have an ODB2 scanner? If so this could make short work of this issue. Here's some information on an affordable Windows unit.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/forscan-odb2-scanner-w-elm327-usb.57/

 

[RazerDev2014]

I changed the coil pack with my older one from the old motor and I knew it works so I thought if I changed it out then that would rule out my coil pack not being the problem and not delivering spark, ill do the spark test to see if something other than the coil pack is wrong aswell, but there is fuel pressure and its getting fuel, another thing I should have mentioned it my hood has been open while driving in the rain due to having an oversized battery so the hood would latch but woulden't shut all the way and lots of things got wet. Which is why my first guess was the coil pack, but I also imagine that the whole coil pack wouldn't have died and it would just run like a**. I'm going to be checking the CKP for ohm readings and see if that's the culprit, Ill also check the MAF here in a minute, and I wish I could afford that program right now but I can't, it seems awesome but I can't get a scanner as of right now and im 100% sure that would tell me the problem but im stuck 20 miles from the nearest autozone and the car won't start so that rules me checking the codes out haha. Ill update asap

 

[RazerDev2014]

Okay so I have confirmed that there is spark, I'm going to take off the injectors and clean them as a last resort, because it doesn't make sense that it was running just fine, then it just starts running bad and then now it won't start

 

[wmburns]

another thing I should have mentioned it my hood has been open while driving in the rain due to having an oversized battery so the hood would latch but woulden't shut all the way and lots of things got wet.

I'm a big believer in Occam's razor.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_razor

Occam's razor would tell you to look at water as the initial cause of your problems.

Consider the ODB2 scanner. It could really save you a ton of time.

 

[RazerDev2014]

IM really wanting the OBD2 scanner but I don't have the funds for it :/ but I was reading another forum about it not starting but would crank, and they said that the computer wasn't grounded properly and that they unplugged it and plugged it back in and it started right up, and ive been thinking of all the possibilitys and water would stop the motor from running from the coil pack, and some other things, but it doesn't make sense that it would start right up and run for 10 minutes with no problems and then start running bad and die after a night of not running after been driven in the rain, It just doesn't make sense to me, water could be the culprit but I don't understand why it would start up immediatly and run good for a little while and then not wanting to start afterwards, just doesn't make sense.

 

[wmburns]

IM really wanting the OBD2 scanner but I don't have the funds for it :/

So you don't have $35? Really?

Just wondering. How much the "extra" parts already put onto the car that didn't "fix" the problem cost?

As far as "free" things are concerned. Did you read through the crank with no start check list? What are the results of the MAF disconnect test? What does the check engine light do during cranking? Does the PATS system "prove out"? Do you hear the fuel pump run?

 

[RazerDev2014]

My theft light never comes on at all and both of my keys are original to the car, I litteraly don't have 35 bucks, im broke af, and I havent spent a single dime on fixing it, all the parts I have are left over from the old motor that was in it, and the car has the 98 3.8 in it and it was running perfect for over 2 months. so everything was technically "free". Check engine light turns off during cranking, The car still didn't start with the MAF unplugged, and the fuel pump is working just fine, because I can hear it and theirs pressure in the lines. I just found a blown fuse and I replaced and nothing changed

 

[wmburns]

It might help if you mentioned which fuse is blowing. Fuses seldom just blow for no reason. This could be a big clue as to what is going on. At the very least it gives direction to the trouble shooting.

1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271

For the 1996-1998 get the fuse numbers and controlling system from the owner's manual.

Does the theft light come on during the initial key on "lamp test"? If not consider that the theft light might actually be burned out. Without a working theft light this could be a PATS problem and you would never know (or maybe your car didn't come with PATS).

Does the motor "hit" with a small amount of starting fluid?

 

[RazerDev2014]

The fuse was for Convertible top and mines not a convertible, and there isnt a slot for theft light so im guessing my car didn't come with PATS, I dont think its a PATS issue due to me starting the car and it dying 10 minutes later, and ill test the starting fluid here in a bit

 

[RazerDev2014]

I tried starting fluid and she started right up, and then I rechecked the fuel lines and sure enough, no pressure at all. So the fuel pump went bad

 

[RazerDev2014]

Well the fuel pump is actually fine, works perfect, so I blamed the fuel filter, changed it and still won't start, I'm at a loss of what it is :/

 

[wmburns]

Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

If it hits and runs on starting fluid AND the fuel pump is GOOD! So what else could it be????????

How about a bad fuel pressure regulator? Or maybe a blocked fuel line? Such you "think" that there's fuel at the rail but not really.

Have you CONFIRMED there is key on power at each fuel injector using a KNOWN good ground. Finally have you CONFIRMED there's a fuel injector pulse? Use a "noid" style tester.

 

[RazerDev2014]

Fuel injectors are firing, and I took off the fuel lines connecting to the fuel rail, im uploading a video of it right now, I turned the key forward, you can hear the fuel pump kick on, but theirs no fuel to the the fuel rails, but the fuel is getting passed the fuel filter, im thinking theres a kink or a fuel line has busted, although that would be weird to me, i dont think ive ever heard of a fuel line busting because of cold weather.

 

[RazerDev2014]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAJQSa1aY4g
Heres the video

 

[wmburns]

Just wondering. How did you confirm fuel flow at the fuel filter? By actually visually seeing the fuel flow under pressure?

Just because you can hear the fuel pump make noise does not mean that it is actually moving fuel. Or what if the flexible line inside the tank and top hat has sprung a leak?

Also it can happen when driving on rocky roads that a rock can crush a metal fuel line.