engine flush, marvel's mystery oil help

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by fivespeedsteed, Feb 16, 2007.

  1. so i have been noticing that my car dirtys up oil very quickly. i also have a pretty bad lifter tick. someone on here told me that marvel's mystery oil does the trick. you put it in, run for 5 minutes then change your oil. the turtle wax site, says to put it in with your oil everytime you change your oil?

    also i was looking at valvoline pyroil engine flush. the directions for that say Add to crankcase and remove after 5 minutes. that seems pretty simple, and the overview says it helps sticky lifters.

    an then there is amsoil engine flush. this stuff seems good but the directions threw me off:

    To quickly clean residual sludge and engine deposits, AMSOIL Engine Flush is recommended: Change the oil filter and add the flush (about 10% of the oil capacity). Do not overfill the crankcase. Idle the engine 15 to 20 minutes, then immediately drain the old oil and flush.

    change the oil filter then put it in, then run, then drain oil? seems odd to me....

    so which of the three would you use? i dont want to mess anything up. my usual oil combo is motocraft 10w-30 with some engine restore. sometimes i use some stop leak stuff becasue i have some leaks.

    if you tell me to go with marvel's how much do i use? i asked my friend whose dad owns a bodyshop what to do and he said that he never heard of that stuff, but he has heard before that there is something out there that turns your oil acidic and cleans everything up. is that what this stuff is doing?

    on a side note, i got magnetic pan plugs, and they have really thin washers in them. should i just keep using them or use the washers on the stock plugs? can i go to advance and get stock washers to use on my magnetic plugs?

    thanks for all the help guys.
  2. I dunno...there is A LOT of engineering into oil these days (especially the true group IV or V synthetics) and there really is no need to add anything else. If you have a sticky lifter or some other problem, adding mystery oil or any of those things is only going to be a temporary fix at best. In the mean time you are diluting and reducing the oil's ability to do what it does best - lubricate and cool.

    Seafoam in the gas is another story and probably a discussion for another thread.
  3. Marvel Mystery oil is great for your air tools. I have never used it in an engine before.
  4. I have put about a cup of the Marvel oil in some of our older work trucks with 460s that had a lifter tick. I would put it in, drive for about 15 minutes and then change the oil. Doing that would get rid of lifter tick for a good 10 - 12 months. I have never done it to one of my cars but I also do very regular if not too much preventative maintenance.(not saying you don't) If you have been adding stop leak and such I would say try it I would do that well before putting stop leak in a motor.
  5. Yeah, I was the guy that responded to your original post. I've never used sea-foam, but have heard good things about it cleaning out gummed up carbs, etc. Can't comment on any of the other products.

    I don't think you're going to get a unanimous vote on any single product here, so go with your gut. I'm glad to see one other guy has had good luck with the MM oil cleaning gummy lifters.
  6. I'd probably opt not to use any of the additives and agree with DucatiRdr on this one. Change your oil and don't add any of the Restore or stop leak stuff. Pretty much every oil on the market has some detergent properties to it to prevent sludge, but adding things containing solids (both the Restore and stop leak stuff) will plug up oil passages in your lifters in no time.
  7. man **** that stuff, i put it in and 5mins later I had a worthless shortblock, just switch out the lifters, if you put this in it thins the oil and loosens everything up, and if you have a lifter tick or something, it will get worse.
  8. wow now im really confused...

    what about the cheap engine flush, were you change your oil, drive for 100-200 miles then change again?

    what about the pan plug washers?
  9. Magnetic drain plugs are great, but keep in mind that they will not pick up particles from the bearings. If the bores are wearing, that material will stick to the magnet.
    The bearings are non-ferrous though.

    All of the following is my opinion...

    Why in the hell would you add a solvent to your engine oil?
    That crap thins out your oil.
    Oil is ENGINEERED to have viscosity, and a very specific viscosity at that.
    If you feel the need to 'clean' out your oil passages, then just change you oil filter, add a quart of ATF, and let the car idle for a good ten minutes or so.
    HOWEVER, the only time you should NEED to do this is if the engine used to run on leaded fuel, back in the 60's.
    Today's oils and fuels do not need additives and do not need any products to 'clean' the crankcase.

    Just because the oil 'looks' dirty does not mean that it is unable to perform its duties as a lubricant.

  10. Don't EVER drive your car with solvent in the crankcase!!!!
  11. I've heard of people using Lucas oil stabilizer. They claim to se it in NHRA and NASCAR. I've heard of people using that on brand new motors with under 100 miles and with over 100,000 miles. Dont know how well it works never tried it.
  12. Engine flushes can have good results to reduce sludge and varnishes. However they can also break up sludge and clogg the pickup screen. Many of these solvents are basically ether and something else, I forgot what, but basically a fuel. Yes it works, but has side effects and do not drive or put any real load on the engine when that stuff is in.

    Marvell mystery oil is good, because it is still an oil, but a cleaner as well. You can put it in, as a quart of oil, but I suggest changing the oil early. Maby run slightly thicker oil than regular.

    Lucas just turns your oil much thicker than before.

    I would run an engine flush on the old oil (considering it still has some life to it) then change the oil and run a quart of Marvell with the oil change, then change the oil early, say 1500-2000 miles and then use regular oil. It should be damn clean then.

    I do not belive that any of this kind of thing is any good for an engine with a problem. Kind of like doing a trans flush on a slipping trans.... it might make it worse.
  13. Regarding oil additives, (so-called) stabilizers, etc.:

    Someone once asked Andy Granatelli what "STP" actually does. He replied, "It makes me rich."
  14. at my old work we used Pyroil engine flush, it's pretty gnarly so i'd definately reccomend doing at least that. on top of it though, i'd actually throw some marvell in there too with your new oil.

    also, if your too poor to afford an engine flush, just throw a quart of ATF in your motor along with your old oil and let it idle for 5 minutes then drain it. pretty much does the same thing.
  15. i would fix the problem and not rely on flushes and additives.
  16. Same here, i put in seafoam and i had blowby on 8th cylinder shortly after:notnice:
  17. idk but that seafoam **** fowled like all of the plugs in my ranger... ( i tried the ole in the manifold thing)