Engine Is DOA- New build- measuring for zero deck?

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SWEEET!!!
called the local machine shop this morning, guy tells me to clean the block up best i can at home and bring it down to him bare. We are going to knock the one damaged cylinder out .030 over and see if it cleans up. only cost me $30 to have that done..... seems reasonable to me.
If it cannot be cleaned up he says we could sleeve the one cylinder, cost to do that is $150..... I have no idea what something like this would cost or if this is a good price.

For those of you who build these things on the regular..... I have heard you never want to go more than .030 over or the engine can overheat.. and strength issues... is there any merit to this? If i have to take the block to .040 over would it still be ok to run 10:1 comp and 10psi???

Thanks for the input as always.
 
I've got picks of the adapter somewheres.... it was basically a steel box with holes in the bottom that lined up to the gt40 lower. The top edge of the box had a flange that the supercharger bolted to. Fairly simple set up.

He used a longer snout shaft and a support bearing. I was a member in a forum a long time ago when this idea first came about..... he almost got my money too.... but i was a day late and a dolla short.
 
???seeing as mine is a fully working system I'm not sure why I would need to redo any of it.... I don't have no weird support bearing thingy or the need to cut a hole in the hood. I'm done with that part.
Unless of course my current blower is in fact damaged beyond repair......
 
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I didn't post that to change your mind, but I do think that mad max box should go, the double tb makes it complicated, maybe something like an oval elbo to the side like the flowzilla uses, I know you are limited space wise but I think you can simplify the inlet, that blower will pull air, It don't care how it gets it for the most part.
BTW, I like that mad max look, but the more I look at it the more I think it could be more effective if less complicated.
Just the thoughts of a 'shade tree mechanic'
The only reason I can be called that is because I have a shade tree and I have been known to accidentally fix something once in awhile
 
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So the machine shop I dropped the block off at says I need to do the old school method of measuring the 4 corners of the block with the outer 4 pistons installed.... this is to do the zero decking of the block.... is this how it's done normally? I like this shop and the owner is fair how do I do this without screwing it up?
 
So the machine shop I dropped the block off at says I need to do the old school method of measuring the 4 corners of the block with the outer 4 pistons installed.... this is to do the zero decking of the block.... is this how it's done normally? I like this shop and the owner is fair how do I do this without screwing it up?
It’s the way to do it. It’s how I done it ( except I only had two ends to worry about.) For a Ford banger it’s absolutely necessary as the stock piston is over .100 down in the hole. I did mine w/o the rings on the pistons and measured the piston at the point directly above, and along the same line that the pin was below.
 
It’s the way to do it. It’s how I done it ( except I only had two ends to worry about.) For a Ford banger it’s absolutely necessary as the stock piston is over .100 down in the hole. I did mine w/o the rings on the pistons and measured the piston at the point directly above, and along the same line that the pin was below.
Good to know thanks Mike, now should i use a set of feeler gauges or is there a way to do this with a dial indicator?