Engine Still Cranks With No Start After Swap

[wmburns]

The last picture with the two black wires with a white stripe is your SMOKING GUN!! Once this one single connector is connected, your symptoms will change totally. Do not do any other work until this one connector is connected. The mating connector can be seen in the picture just above it. You can see that it even has the same color wires.

Also today I realized that when I crank the motor the rpm needle doesnt move at all. Does this signify a bad crank position sensor?

Yes it COULD indicate a bad CKP sensor. But one should confirm that the PCM is getting power first.

I also see the main battery fusible link not connected. The fusible link are the two short white wires that appear to be sliced into the wire. Terminated in a large round eye connector. I suspect this should go to the battery junction box there in the engine bay. Expect to have alternator and battery charging issues if not connected. Look for a sizable stud style terminal on the side of the BJB. Suggest resolving this connection as well as the smoking gun ground connector.

I suspect the connector in your hand is the cam sensor connector. The cam sensor is located on the front left side of the motor (driver's side) behind the power steering reservoir.

Also I was checking out the fuel cutoff switch since my fuel pump isn't priming, and the red button is stuck in the pushed down position. Is this normal?

Yes. Once all the connectors are in place have a helper turn the key on but do not crank. You should hear a "click" from the front right of the engine bay (CCRM) as well as hear the fuel pump run. If not, STOP and find out why.

Are you ready to celebrate?

 

[chapters707]

This is great news that the last remaining connection is a smoking gun! I figured out the cam sensor yesterday on my own but still am not seeing the mating wire you mentioned. Where in the first photo is it? As for the fish eye connector, I assumed that was a ground and had it bolted to the chassis haha. I will find the stud on the fuse box next time I'm out there.

If I remember correctly I believe I have a red wire with a similar fish eye connector running to the fuse box already, does this sound correct? I will check for the click and fuel pump like you said once I figure out where the mating wire is for that last connector. Very happy to have a game plan again and thank you for your continued assistance!!

 

[wmburns]

but still am not seeing the mating wire you mentioned. Where in the first photo is it?

In the first photo it's to the right of the white wire with a red/pink stripe. You can see it just touching (in the same picture depth of field view) the washer fluid reservoir.

Regarding the battery junction box. There should be at least two large wires. One from the BJB to the battery itself. The other from the alternator to the BJB. The fusible links are there to protect the alternator. Hence why the batter would not charge unless connected.

Not to mention the real possibility of sparks/fire if that Alternator B+ wire were grounded.

Note, the fusible links are difficult/impossible to replace. Most people simply get a whole new cable IF the fusible links are ever blown.

The suspense is killing me. Will you start this motor already?

 

[chapters707]

Wait are you sure those two mate together? If I remember correctly from when I was looking at them the one that's bolted to the chassis and that one you mentioned are different shapes. I believe that one next to the power steering reservoir had a rectangular shape while the other one is more of a circle. I'm not positive though, man I wish I had my own garage so I could go check without making it a whole trip...Trust me the anticipation is killing me as well haha!

 

[wmburns]

Wait are you sure those two mate together? !

IF they don't mate together then there's a missing part of the ground harness. I suspect that the outside of the connector is square whereas the inside is round.

Regardless. I'm positive that the round connector with two black wires with a white stripe is the PCM and CCRM ground. With a disconnected PCM/CCRM ground the your reported symptoms should be EXPECTED.

If still unable to locate the connector you could try grounding the wires yourself with a jumper wire. The aim here is with the key in run to see if grounding on of the wires will make the CCRM "click" thus proving the theory. I don't recommend trying to start the motor unless both wires are properly grounded. These are HIGH current grounds.

 

[chapters707]

Okay that makes sense. I will investigate when I can. Unfortunately I am entertaining company from out of town this week so I dunno if Ill be going out there. Maybe I can talk my friend into helping me work on the car will update once I do get out there.

 

[chapters707]

Okay so I got out to the garage again today. We found the ground wire for the pcm, it was sitting on the floor of course. So we plugged that into the connector but I wanted to double check how to connect it. It has a fisheye connector that I believe to be a ground. Then it has a medium black wire with the copper coming out the end and I believe this goes to the negative battery terminal? And finally I have another fisheye connector which I think you said goes to the stud on the fuse box. I will attach photos below. So close!

 

[chapters707]

The two in my hand are coming from the pcm connector.

 

[chapters707]

this is the one I believe connects to the fuse box but I'm not sure.

 

[mogs01gt]

Top appears to be a ground but the bottom picture looks like a white cable. I'll check mine tonight when I get home but I do have a 01 so it may be different.

 

[wmburns]

Black wire with white stripe suspect that the round eye goes to the radiator core support. There should be other ground wires there as well.

The bare wire to battery negative. But it would be best if pictures of the radiator core support near the battery were posted.

Note, there should also be a cable going from battery negative to the radiator core support. This is to ground the radiator core support.

Did you double check the motor grounding strap from the left hand motor mount to the frame rail. Should be visible near the oil filter.

The red wire with the white fusible links that is terminated with a round eye connector goes to the BJB main terminal. I can even see the bare stud on the side of the BJB. The other end of the same cable should go to the main alternator B+ stud.

 

[chapters707]

Okay so the black open ended wire goes to the negative terminal and the small black wire with a fisheye end is a ground that's bolted to the radiator core support.

The only one I'm still questioning is the larger black and orange wire that has two white wires coming out of it which ends in the round eye. I already have a red B+ wire that runs from the battery to the BJB on the stud you mentioned. I also remember already hooking up a wire with a similar round eye onto the alternator. So unless maybe I removed that one and forgot to put it back those should both be accounted for.

Is there anywhere else you can think of that orange/black round eye wire might go? If not I will go back and confirm that both the BJB and alternator are connected already.

I'll check mine tonight when I get home but I do have a 01 so it may be different.

I would appreciate that! I'm not sure if that connection would be different on an 01 but if you could find it and describe where it ends or take a photo that'd be awesome! I'm thinking it may be the alternator wire but I could have sworn I bolted that down already...

 

[chapters707]

UPDATE: My car officially runs! It started up today after sputtering a few times (probably building up fuel pressure) but idled smoothly and revved up strong! Thanks everyone for the help I couldn't have done this without you guys.

On a side note, I am about to buy a set of new wheels and tires off americanmuscle and was wondering if there is a discount code they offer to members of this forum?

 

[wmburns]

I'm assuming that you got the battery and alternator wires figured out as well as the grounds. Were you able to hear the fuel pump run at initial key on as expected? Assuming that PATS also "proved out" once the CCRM/PCM ground was connected.

Were there any surprises? Tell us what you were thinking when you heard all the new clicks and sounds.

Congratulations on your achievement! You have done something that many talk about doing but somehow never actually do. Give yourself a pat on the back!

 

[chapters707]

I did get them figured out. The ground went to the radiator core support and the black wire with copper tip went to the battery negative. Also you were correct about the alternator round eye connector going to the BJB as well as a b+ cable.

The fuel pump primed and pcm clicked like you had mentioned so I tried starting her up. The car sputtered and started for half a second before shutting off the first couple times. That was music to my ears though I got so excited the first time it really turned over. It had been sitting for months so I figured it might take a few tries.

I let it rest a bit and then it started right up and has been running incredibly smooth. At first I got really scared because I I saw a lot of smoke coming out of the I engine bay. Then I realized that my exhaust wasn't hooked up and the manifolds spit it out right there haha. This motor seems to idle smoother than my old 5.0 that I no longer own. I have some new chrome replica bullitt wheels and a borla catback as well as new carpet en route, can't wait to get this thing off the jack stands and on the road!

Once again thank you for all the help. This motor swap was just the beginning. I'm sure that I'll be back on here before long asking stupid questions about my next mods!

 

[chapters707]

I did get them figured out. The ground went to the radiator core support and the black wire with copper tip went to the battery negative. Also you were correct about the alternator round eye connector going to the BJB as well as a b+ cable.

The fuel pump primed and pcm clicked like you had mentioned so I tried starting her up. The car sputtered and started for half a second before shutting off the first couple times. That was music to my ears though I got so excited the first time it really turned over. It had been sitting for months so I figured it might take a few tries.

I let it rest a bit and then it started right up and has been running incredibly smooth. At first I got really scared because I I saw a lot of smoke coming out of the I engine bay. Then I realized that my exhaust wasn't hooked up and the manifolds spit it out right there haha. This motor seems to idle smoother than my old 5.0 that I no longer own. I have some new chrome replica bullitt wheels and a borla catback as well as new carpet en route, can't wait to get this thing off the jack stands and on the road!

Once again thank you for all the help. This motor swap was just the beginning. I'm sure that I'll be back on here before long asking stupid questions about my next mods!