Engine teardown....

diablostang

New Member
Sep 21, 2004
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Raleigh, NC
Ok, I'm to the point where I have the engine on stand, heads off, oilpan off... What next? Go ahead and unbolt pistons, crankshaft and just keep pulling it apart?

I need to take it and have a machineshop check the block, does it need to be completely dissassembled?

Any tips/things I need to know on dissasembly?

Sorry for all the questions, this is my first time. :p

Enginewoutoilpan.jpg

engineonstand.jpg
 

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If your taking to the machine shop, you will need to completely disassemble it, unless you pay them to do it. From your pics, I would say you next need to get a harmonic balancer puller and pull the balancer and timing cover. Then the timing chain, lifters, and cam. Oil pump and pickup need to go to. Then you can unbolt the rods one by one and pop the pistons out the top of the block. Be careful not to nick or damage any crank journels. Also, make a point to keep everything organized and note which pistons come out of which cylinder. (they should be numbered) , the rod caps need to go on the same way they came off, along with the main caps. Finally you can unbolt the crank and pull it out.

BTW, what happened to the motor? Looks like it's got some nice parts in it, H-beam rods, main studs, etc..
 
Yikes, that doesn't look good. The journals are the polished surfaces on the crank that the bearings ride on. A scratched or nicked journal can wipe out a bearing in no time. Are you running a power adder? Piston failure is usually cause by detonation of some sort. Not enough fuel, too much timing, etc.
 
Yeah, it wasn't good.

No power adders, not sure what happened.. It was chipped and custom dynotuned. I know the car was driven HARD though, not sure how many miles on the engine, it traded hands a couple times before it came to me.
 
When you get it back together and broken in, it would be a good idea to get it dyno'd to make sure your air / fuel ration is safe, even if it is naturally aspirated. What are running for your fuel system, as in injectors, mass air, fuel pump, lines, regulator, etc
 
first of all, where in nc are you? first off...if youre taking the block to a machine shop (which is a must at this point) you have to get everything out of there. take the balancer off, take the timing cover off, take the timing chain off and than start unbolting the rods from the crank. unbolt the crank and pull it out and set it on its end somewhere that it will not fall over and pull the cam out and than take it to the machine shop. if you dont know any machine shops around here let me know because i know of a really good and respectable guy in little washington that can do anything you want to that block for a very good price. and if you want any help pulling that thing apart and youre in raleigh or the surrounding area let me know, im more than willing to come help a fellow stanger. good luck man
 
Dragnazz:

I'm in Wake Forest, about 30 min north of Downtown Raleigh.

Thanks for the reply, I may have to take you up on that offer! We'll see how dissassembly goes.

Btw, what machine shop do you use? There's a little Hole in the wall shop in WF, behind Hollingsworth Auto sales. All I've had done there previously was a flywheel resurface.

Thanks again for the help, It's very appreciated.
 
this place is run by one guy, willy, in little washington about an hour and a half from here. ive never had anything done by anyone around here but i know quite a few people that have used him and they say that he is the best. he can get you great prices on engine parts also.

he just did a set of heads for a guy that im rebuilding a car for. its a 66 mustang with a 289, and he redid the stock heads with bigger stainless steel valves, new valve guides, new springs/retainers, new freeze plugs, milled them and cleaned them for 450. hes a great guy and really knows what hes doing.

ps. im in cary but most people dont know where it is so i just say raleigh...but i know where wake forest is. just let me know if you want any help or need an extra hand for any time.
 
Get rid of the ring ridge b4 u take the pistons out but urs barely has one anyways. and take ur time, keep eveything clean and keep everything organized. Nice motor though they look like Manley Forged H-beam rods, but Manley didnt make rods for the 5.0L, i guess they make stroker rods for a 331 though