Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

I forgot to check the jack under the trans last night and managed to get a small dent in the oil pan... figures.

I am going to space the engine first and see what kind of room I have. Then mess with the K-member as a last resort.

The hood deformed where i left it resting on a rag, now there is no turning back.... Saturday it will get the full cut treatment
 
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Doug's headers D6672

New in a box originally shipped in 2015.

Stole them on ebay for 400 to my door.

20191004_201936.jpg 20191004_202148.jpg
 
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Yay longtubes! Er ah :leghump: these damn things.
I got the adapters mounted to the heads, only major concern I have is that I already had to clearance something... go figure.

The adapter plate barely touched the head studs, so I had to trim them.. after laying the adapters against the header flange i will have to cut the bottom bolt flange on the headers as well. No huge deal really just need a touch more clearance than i have right now. I do have to cut the individual tubes loose on the headers and slide the assembly into place, it does not look to be that bad but only time will tell once I start the installation.

Oh I also got the motor mounts spaced accordingly, I now have plenty of space below the oil pan. Tomorrow I plan on getting the engine and headers completed. So I can move on to wiring the car.
 
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Uhh...two things.

What needs the adapter plate....the header or the head? In other words, which has the diagonal bolt pattern?

I gotta say, you guys that have all these problems with long tube headers are simply fighting common sense.

The battle with Long tube Headers is won one of two ways:

#1. They are put into the bay before the engine goes in.
#2. The engine gets jacked up a mile on the side you are trying to install.

Now this is all predicated on the header actually fitting after it gets in there. Which goes to say that that adapter plate is probably creating your headache because of the added thickness.

Also read that you have cut the header into two pieces..to make it easier to install..Am I reading that right?
How do you intend to seal it back up? A slip fit header leaks like a bitch.

It’s just a matter of 20 years.....if you were 20 years older, you’d have to deal with long tubes as your only option...and fighting a header install was just another thing that had to be done.
You’d have all the goofy little modified wrenches to help get to that “one bolt” tight/loose in a special drawer. Have that old big assed screw driver....the special one that lets you pry the tube into place with one hand, while you screw the bolt in with the other. You have various cuts, scrapes, and burns from all the times spent under the car “ uncapping” the headers to give you the extra edge you’ll need to beat your arch rival..( the one that beat your ass last week because you left the headers closed, cause it was too cold)..

If I was there, you’d have the benefit of my vast experience, and there wouldn’t be a passenger side header problem......

there’d be an installed header.
 
Man would that be nice, I actually thought of laying them in beforehand but with all the other issues I have had it was nice to not have them in the way, I plan on pulling the engine all the way to the driver side to fit the passenger into place then i will deal with the driver side.

The adapter plate does what you think it does, it takes the standard ford bolt pattern and makes it diagonal. The only reason why i had to clearance anything is because i am using these ginormous head studs and the flange barely touches the top of the nut.

The fitment will be tight thats for sure. I may have to clearance one header tube but i am waiting to see if that is really needed or not.
 
Man would that be nice, I actually thought of laying them in beforehand but with all the other issues I have had it was nice to not have them in the way, I plan on pulling the engine all the way to the driver side to fit the passenger into place then i will deal with the driver side.

The adapter plate does what you think it does, it takes the standard ford bolt pattern and makes it diagonal. The only reason why i had to clearance anything is because i am using these ginormous head studs and the flange barely touches the top of the nut.

The fitment will be tight thats for sure.
I may have to clearance one header tube
but i am waiting to see if that is really needed or not.

You mean “ Smash” don’t you?
 
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I hate to say this....but....I think a tubular k member is in order my friend. I've got AJE and its been working well for many years. ( well the old one until I went curb surfin' ). Mine came with the spring perches and I use the factory lower control arms. The header clearance issue would be a thing of the past....and you might actually be able to change the starter, if need be, without removing that header again. The engine mounts for the AJE are like this...

Screenshot_20191007-214828_Chrome.jpg


The engine has adjustment left and right that helps with getting a little space by the header tubes.
 
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I hate to say this....but....I think a tubular k member is in order my friend. I've got AJE and its been working well for many years. ( well the old one until I went curb surfin' ). Mine came with the spring perches and I use the factory lower control arms. The header clearance issue would be a thing of the past....and you might actually be able to change the starter, if need be, without removing that header again. The engine mounts for the AJE are like this...

Screenshot_20191007-214828_Chrome.jpg


The engine has adjustment left and right that helps with getting a little space by the header tubes.
At this point I agree with you... so I can reuse the factory a arms? Remember I have 4 lug stuff still....

This swap is getting really expensive.
 
At this point I agree with you... so I can reuse the factory a arms? Remember I have 4 lug stuff still....

This swap is getting really expensive.
Wanna compare notes? I'm at 5k and I still need to adapt the trans, modify the driveshaft, change out the brakes and my fuel system, add an a2w intercooler back in and a pump/reservoir/lines and fittings.
I've gotta blow my AC charge, and re-plumb the lines to the other side of the engine, and that's if I can use that compressor that was on the engine......and....

I could go on..

Put some washers between the pad, and the mount studs to see if you can get away with spacing it, and be done.
 
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I had to make a spacer on my 66 Thunderbird for header clearance on the pass. side. I just used a 1/2" plate. Worked great. Jack up motor till you got clearance and measure what you need. may be a bit more challenging on fox mounts but you're creative.