Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

#4,101
a91what said:
Darn I already ordered the por15... maybe i can find just the tool..
Click to expand...
+1 on the eastwood internal frame coating.. Por-15 will peel if it's not on rust or clean metal that's treated with there metal ready. I've used a chit ton of the frame coating in mine after fixing my frame rail/strut tower area... and I did all the rest all the way back... plus I plan on just re-coating it every couple years just for peace of mind... I'm hopping it really works, since there is really no way to get instead the rails other wise.

Plus when I put my MM SFC's on next month, I plan on spraying that inside them once there welding on... according to the instructions there are a couple tiny holes already they tell you to weld up ( or now that I'm thinking, maybe I would just put some RTV to seal them, so I can re-spary again in a few years just to make sure no rusting inside)... so I will enlarge if I have to, to get the hose in... and then weld the hole closed, then paint the outside of them.
 
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#4,102
Well after 3 days of flooding the frame rails with water and washing them out, I was not conviced they were clean enough. So this morning I decided that I would try a different approach, I used compressed air at 100psi and a small torch. :chin whats the torch for?? well its to help heat the metal up and dry the sand and debris, it work wonderfully. I was able to blow another lb of debris out of the frame, its crazy just how much sand and junk was in the frame rails. Everytime you wash one of these cars junk gets carried into the frame through the holes ect in the engine compartment.

Once I was satisfied with my progress cleaning them I proceeded to empty an entire can of the Eastwood frame coating into the front rails. I have to say the flexible spray nozzle is genius, I was able to get it up and into every corner. Tomorrow I will empty a second can into the rails and call this part done.

I also have the por15, I used it to coat the areas of the floor where the metal joins up before I finish the killmat installation. I also plan to coat all the welds ect under the car with it.
 
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#4,103
Well it's not as impressive as dropping an engine in or as exciting as a dyno pull but I did manage to get that second can of Eastwood fraim coating sprayed into every cavity I could. I even hit the rear rails where I had room to do so.
Once this thing stops dripping, and I am done with a remote tune... I will start painting the underside of the car with por15 I dont plan to do the whole thing like some of you have but I will get the areas that got welded and any spots that metal joins.
I think I may need to keep a wire brush handy to knock and debris loose that I missed the first time, oh and a rag with some denatured alcohol to ensure the stuff sticks.
 
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#4,104
I need to do the same thing to my car. My 84 had ziebart sprayed in the rockers and rails. They drilled holes and popped in little grommets. That car was solid...except one spot in the left rear frame rail where the exhaust rubbed at some point.
 
#4,105
I successfully got all the fenders rolled on the car, they turned out very good with minimal paint damage. Without the fenders rolled I was able to get a 275 tire under the car with no rubbing, I am going to see if a 285 is possible now.
 
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#4,107
I can get some tomorrow, just got done working over a tune.. this poor guy is plagued with issues we cant seem to get worked out, I have a feeling its wiring related.
The idle was mint, then he wanted the cam to talk more.. so you want me too unfix the tune?? lolz gotta love it
 
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#4,110
a91what said:
Well it's not as impressive as dropping an engine in or as exciting as a dyno pull but I did manage to get that second can of Eastwood fraim coating sprayed into every cavity I could. I even hit the rear rails where I had room to do so.
Once this thing stops dripping, and I am done with a remote tune... I will start painting the underside of the car with por15 I dont plan to do the whole thing like some of you have but I will get the areas that got welded and any spots that metal joins.
I think I may need to keep a wire brush handy to knock and debris loose that I missed the first time, oh and a rag with some denatured alcohol to ensure the stuff sticks.
Click to expand...
I finally figured out how I can return all of your good selfless help. From now on, I’ll refrain from pointing out that there is no such word as fraim in the English language, much less in some other context.
Scouts honor.

Right after I point it out this time. :banana:
 
#4,111
CarMichael Angelo said:
I finally figured out how I can return all of your good selfless help. From now on, I’ll refrain from pointing out that there is no such word as fraim in the English language, much less in some other context.
Scouts honor.

Right after I point it out this time. :banana:
Click to expand...
Your welcome Mike, tell my autocorrect that it's not a word. Or it used to be
 
#4,113
Ok so before this thing comes down off the jackstands I decided to go ahead and do a 5 lug swap. I need some help figuring out what I need to get.

-94-95 or 96-04 spindles? I know the only real difference is in the outer tie rod arm height I am using a bumpsteer kit to correct this downward already as the car is lowered with offset rack bushings.
-I have a set of the ATS brembo calipers with offset inserts that will be going on the car, I believe these will use a 13" rotor?
- I plan to run a 31 spline axle in the rear, do I need anything fancy to run disk brakes? if so what do I need? I believe we have a sn rear axle we plan to cut down for another project, will the brackets ect from that bolt onto the fox axle?
- MC selection, what's the properly sized one for this project?
-proportioning valve? what do you suggest?

I will read through some of the brake upgrade threads when I have time [its hard to find time these days]

@Mustang5L5 @General karthief @hoopty5.0
any of you guys have parts lying around? :D
 
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#4,114
I'll order some of what you need and ship it to you...do you want the hard line bypass or just the plug for the prop valve. I owe you anyways. Let's start at a 200 limit....I'll order and give you the order and tracking numbers. Text me your address buddy.

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#4,116
a91what said:
Ok so before this thing comes down off the jackstands I decided to go ahead and do a 5 lug swap. I need some help figuring out what I need to get.

-94-95 or 96-04 spindles? I know the only real difference is in the outer tie rod arm height I am using a bumpsteer kit to correct this downward already as the car is lowered with offset rack bushings.
-I have a set of the ATS brembo calipers with offset inserts that will be going on the car, I believe these will use a 13" rotor?
- I plan to run a 31 spline axle in the rear, do I need anything fancy to run disk brakes? if so what do I need? I believe we have a sn rear axle we plan to cut down for another project, will the brackets ect from that bolt onto the fox axle?
- MC selection, what's the properly sized one for this project?
-proportioning valve? what do you suggest?

I will read through some of the brake upgrade threads when I have time [its hard to find time these days]

@Mustang5L5 @General karthief @hoopty5.0
any of you guys have parts lying around? :D
Click to expand...
I got a set of 96 spindles if you decide to go that route
 
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#4,118
I've been using 98 spindles with 89 ball joints for 11 years. I have the 94s but these have been working fine. I have a bump steer kit. The reason I want to try the 94 is because of some info I came across here a few years ago. The 98 tie rod points are higher than the 94 by about 3/4 of an inch or so. To set my bump steer I had to use just about all the spacers in the kit. That also puts more leverage on the pin because its spaced further away from the knuckle. No issues yet. I'm also lowered 1.5 up front.

The MM k member changes the pickup point of the control arms so they recommend newer spindles for correct geometry.

I really wish one of our experts would chime in. My brain can only hold so much.
 
#4,119
A basic list of what you need. All 3 of my cars are 5 lug, 4 wheel disc with cobra brakes front and rear.

- Moser 31 Spline Axles Fox Length will work fine with hub for rear discs
- Front and Rear Cobra brake kits from North Race Car - North Racecars Brake Solutions or source the brakes seperate or if you already have then good to go
- '94/95 Spindles
- '93 Cobra Master Cylinder
- '93 Cobra Brake Booster
- WilWood Rear Proportioning Valve
- Plug for stock proportioning valve
- Maximum Motorsports 3 - 2 conversion brake line

Chris
 
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