Even the all metal Typhoon Intake manifold will crack on you

Oct 17, 2020
2
1
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26
Los Angeles
New to the Forum. Thanks for having me

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2000 gt built somewhere in between a drag car and a track car. Procharger pushing 430 at the wheels right now with 9 psi. (conservative tune for street).
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Had a temp flare today so I pop the hood and what do you know.... the damn crossover section of the all aluminum typhoon intake manifold cracked at the base of the alternator bracket tower. Pretty sure the cracks on BOTH are due to the force of the pulley pulling downward therefore torquing the mounting points. I will be fabricating a K bar hybrid upper sway bar shock tower brace that also reinforces the alternator bracket to relieve pressure. In the mean time.... Attempting to JB Weld the cracks because I dont want to swap it out without at least trying the cheap option first.
 
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7991LXnSHO

10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
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Kearney, NE
If you have poly or rubber motor mounts, the engine is going to move a little. If I picture what you are looking to fabricate, that’s a lot of torque applied to an accessory bracket.
If you have solid motor mounts, chassis flex could still be a problem.
I not familiar enough with the intake to draw a better idea, but I suggest a reinforcement bracket that is tied to a solid part of the engine should be what you look into making or purchasing.
 
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Oct 17, 2020
2
1
13
26
Los Angeles
If you have poly or rubber motor mounts, the engine is going to move a little. If I picture what you are looking to fabricate, that’s a lot of torque applied to an accessory bracket.
If you have solid motor mounts, chassis flex could still be a problem.
I not familiar enough with the intake to draw a better idea, but I suggest a reinforcement bracket that is tied to a solid part of the engine should be what you look into making or purchasing.
I plan on using flexible mounts to counteract this the bar is going to go near the alternator not directly through its mounting points. flexible aluminum mounts should allow for some stress relief while still allowing engine flex to naturally occur
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,878
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Houston Texas
Pretty sure the cracks on BOTH are due to the force of the pulley pulling downward therefore torquing the mounting points
The alternator should be supported by the lower mounting points of the alternator. The two bolts connect to the block webbing in the engine valley. Should be a very sturdy mount point. I just don't see it unless those lower mounting bolts are loose.

My vote is to look at the forces placed upon the heater hose as the motor moves in the K-member. In my experience the Mustang is very hard on motor mounts. A dead give away is IF the motor is setting much lower in the K-member.