Ever have header bolts just seize? I did!

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by SableSal, Mar 3, 2013.

  1. Well Harvey and I were swapping H Pipes to give em a winning chance at the state emission test, and I started to remove the bolts at the header flange.. and yeah. They wouldn't budge, we finally got them to move a little, but when we felt they were going to break... They wouldn't tighten! It's the oddest thing, I just decided to break em off... Here's what they look like.
  2. I use heat to remove any exhaust parts
  3. Looks like I'll be investing in some anti-seize on the next studs. lol

    95 Vert, we used heat... Nope. Didn't work.
  4. If you torch them and then hose them down with penetrating oil and they still won't budge, it wasn't meant to be. Then it's time to snap them.

    I always use stainless bolts in between the H-pipe and the cat-back, and if I don't use heavy amounts of WD40 before attempting to loosen the nuts the threads instantly gall and it's all over. That’s when it’s time to get out two breaker bars and snap them. Once they’re snapped my arms are pretty much done for the day, I’m ready to sell the car, and I go inside for a beer. ;)
    SableSal likes this.
  5. Generally you dont want to heat the bolt itself but rather the area the bolt goes into. then i would grab the bolt with vise grips (Real vise grips) and clamp as tight as possible twisting the bolt/stud back and forth while spraying the area with PB blaster.
  6. Yes, we heated the nut itself, and not the stud.
    No room up there on the header/h pipe flange for a vise grip.

    I honestly think his car is cursed,as far as exhaust goes.
    Many issues with headers, studs and cat backs.
    Damn thing!

    Seriously though, thanks a lot sal.
    My h pipe just squeaked by the emissions test last time.
  7. Hey no problem Harvey, for as many times as you're helped me giving me a hand with things... it's the least I can do.

    Now come over and help me take these damn headers off!! lol
  8. Those don't look like header bolts... ????
    When you put it back together, use real header bolts and high temp anti-seize.
    If you are feeling froggy, get some Stage8 header bolts, so you don't need to tighten the pizz out of them to begin with.
  9. +1 to ratio411. Stage 8 is the way to go. In the big picture it's a very small price to pay. There's nothing like the feeling of snapping a manifold or header bolt off with a 1/4" nub sticking out of the head.
  10. Well they are the studs that came with the BBK setup. I just bought some replacement ones from BBK. I'll be using Anti-seize on these replacement studs.
  11. ...and the header studs are seized too!
  12. Most SBF headers can't use studs. The pipes sweep too much next to the flange.
    Those headers you show in the pics are the only ones I have ever seen that keep the pipe straight off the head for such a long distance.
    That's kind of nice compared to any other Mustang SBF header, but I would still use small headed (3/8) header bolts with those just to have the extra room. Maybe use a socket on headers for a change, instead of an open end wrench, 1/20th of a turn at a stroke...

    For the collector, I like to run a bolt down from the top to make a stud. That way if it breaks, you have a bolt head to draw it out, even if it breaks flush. The only problem is the bolt turning when you are snugging it. If you have mild steel headers, you can put a spot weld on there to hold it, then grind the spot off if you have to replace the bolt. With the stainless headers on our 94, I had my son hold the bolts from the top with a 24" long extension on a ratchet. It's a straight shot, but if you don't have 2 people, it would be a pain.
  13. When one of the header bolts on my car backed out and was lost, I ordered a set of the ARP stainless 3/8" bolts. I can actually get a socket on most of them even with (too big, I know) 1¾" primaries.

    Next time I do header bolts I'm going to use anti-sieze and secure them with safety wire.
    ratio411 likes this.
  14. What headers do you run with 1.75" primaries?
  15. Hooker Super Comp. They're actually fox headers. I'm not sure why I went with them anymore. They're way too much header for my car. Not to mention the ceramic coating has come off in some places and has given way to rust and pitting. I want to replace them with a set of 1 5/8" BBKs.
  16. UPDATE: I bought some NOS FRPP Headers. They look of better quality! I'll be adding LOTS of Anti-Seize!
    02 281 GT and davis3 like this.
  17. Yeah, Hooker's coating is known to be substandard. :(
    There is a company called Jet-Hot in Arizona, one of the first coating companies, that deals Hooker headers, as well as others.
    They stock the headers, or you can buy new and have the headers drop shipped to them, and they will coat them.
    They have a really high quality coating, and they coat inside and out, unlike header manufacturers.
    The best part is that usually the cost of their headers with their coating is same or less than coated headers from Hooker.
    Just a heads up for anyone interested.
    02 281 GT likes this.
  18. It probably would have been cheaper to have them coated by Jet-Hot in the first place. The coated hooker headers are $230 more than the painted ones.

    The BBKs are $130 more if they're coated.

    Anyway, sorry about hijacking the thread. :oops:
    SableSal likes this.
  19. No worries. I'll update the thread with pics of the exhaust when it all comes in. My SLP Loudmouths will be here tomorrow and my FRPP headers will be in Friday. I can't wait to get her back on the road! I figure maybe it's time I change out the engine oil, reseal a seeping diff cover, and grease the ujoints. Might as well ;)

  20. I had a set of Kooks headers for my Cougar that were coated using "Jet Hot". Had the car 6-years and the headers looked as good the day I sold it, as the day I put them on.

    I've got the ceramic coated BBK 1 5/8 Long Tubes set to go on the Mustang now. I hope they hold up as well?