Everyone says my B303 is junk, opinions on best Daily driver street cams?

[dderek]

id like to have a decent idle, and alot of power. everyone here has convinced me to stick with my trickflow heads and just get them ported and polished, and milled.. and cleaned up.

ive been planning on a new intake set. and probably get those machined too. not sure on which one yet.

i already ordered a 70mm throttle body. my parts guy got two in for me, a edelbrock one. and a polished 70mm one thats $30 cheaper, from some other brand? i forget which... ill take a look at them and pick one.

ok back to my real question.
whats a good cam, i can drive to/from work with everyday. in normal traffic, and whatnot. rainy days etc. just normal daily stuff. without getting frustrated at heavy loping etc.

and how much power do you think id actually pick up from swapping this B303 to something else?

thanks
derek

 

[88stangmangt]

one word for ya "custom" cam ed curtis can burn you what ever you want and it will sure as hell have more power over a stone age cam like the ford motorsports cams.

 

[dderek]

one word for ya "custom" cam ed curtis can burn you what ever you want and it will sure as hell have more power over a stone age cam like the ford motorsports cams.

hmm really?
how much would that cost me?
and where can i get more info on this? website? number? etc?

 

[Grn92LX]

www.flowtechinduction.com $325 for cam and $120 for upgraded springs to handle the new cam.

 

[90mustangGT]

It seems that custom is your best value. Most OTS cams cost about the same but your kind of throwing a part at it, while custom will be made for your application.

I have the B cam on 1.7's, advanced 2*, not a bad cam, but sucks on cold starts and low vaccume.

 

[F8Lstang]

are you having prblems with the b?

 

[Legendary]

I have the B cam on 1.7's, advanced 2*, not a bad cam, but sucks on cold starts and low vaccume.

I have the samething (minus the 2* advanced) and same problem.

 

[dderek]

no im not really having problems with the b cam, but i did have ****ty cold starts..
but right now im about to replace head gaskets, and get alot of head work done on my twisted wedge heads.. and i was told this b cam wont get as much as i should from the heads.

i figure, theyre going to be off, might as well have them machined.
if im going to do that i might as well get a custom cam, and if i do that.. i might as well get a better intake setup too.

 

[Hawaiian5.0]

Friend of mines 85 is on the B-cam. Lotta people say they don't like FMS alphabet cams but I'm sold by them! His B-cam, performer heads, and 3.55's runs 12.0's @ 114. Just by the mile an hour it's a 11sec car with traction. The B-cam is a decent sounding cam too. I'd recomend 3.55's if you go with the "B" as they are made for each other. Just my .02

 

[Sir Hacksalot]

If you are looking at something that is a daily driver, and you want a better idle quality than the Bcam, then go custom.

You can get them ground for you by Ed Curtis at FTI, or Buddy Rawls, or you can call Comp Cams and discuss your combo, and what your goals are, and they will help you select a cam shaft to fit your needs.

Do a search on Ed Curtis and Buddy Rawls, and you will find plenty of info.

BTW...nice move on keeping your TW heads and having some port work done instead of scrapping them for AFR 165's

Hax

 

[90mustangGT]

The idle "quality" of the B cam is something I like about it. But then again mine isn't a daily driver. The funny part, my gas milege stayed the same if not improved when I swaped the stocker with the B cam, it doesn't make sense, but it did.

 

[jasonlee0704]

The idle "quality" of the B cam is something I like about it. But then again mine isn't a daily driver. The funny part, my gas milege stayed the same if not improved when I swaped the stocker with the B cam, it doesn't make sense, but it did.

Your gas mileage is more of a function of how you drive your Mustang than it is what cam you have in the engine.

If you drive with the A/C on all day, constantly accelerating at high RPMs, your gas mileage is going to suck. If you drive with the RPMs consistently at or below 2000, with little A/C or idling, you're going to get pretty good mileage. If you swap your bumpstick and drive the Mustang about the same, your mileage will be about the same.

Extreme case in point: 2004 Mustang 6-banger: EPA 20 city/29 highway mpg. 2004 Mustang Mach 1: EPA 17 city/26 highway mpg. That 3 miles per gallon difference will be unnoticeable to the average driver.

 

[lx2539]

my b cam has been good to me!

 

[Legendary]

If you drive with the RPMs consistently at or below 2000 you're going to get pretty good mileage.

HA! Is that even possible?!?!!

 

[QDRHRSE]

The B Cam is a good old school cam. Back in the day that was the cam of choice! Still a good pick today. As good or better than a lot of other popular cams people are using now-a-days. The B cam has been around for at least 15 years. If it was as much of a piece of junk as some people say Ford would not still sell it. With 1.7 rockers its an excellent set up.

 

[blown93feature]

just to add a little more insight on the so called alphabit cams,I run an "E" with an automatic and I have to tell ya that cold starts, idleing, performance is second to none so I wouldn't worry about the alphabit failing you.I too run the tfs products from ported intake to track heat heads,and 1.73 tfs rr's and this car will have no issue making 11 sec passes.I had the stock aod in it and the monster 12" converter that has a 1200 stall if that and I still had no issues with stalling or pulling the motor down or idleing for the most part those problems are a tune issue not the cams fault.I do know that some of these guys were having probs with alpha bit cams in the sn year so if ya have a 95' you probably want to custom grind to save the hassle.

 

[25thmustang]

I personally would either go Ed Curtis, or keep the stocker. I like the stock cam as it adds to the sleeper affect and on an NA bolt on or mild motor will spin up to 5500-6000 and with a power adder will make power up to 7000, believe it or not!

 

[Ranchero5.0]

Blown, be careful with what you say. I've bult a few E cam cars and some run amazingly stock with stock heads, etc, but run larger ports / intake combos and the velocity goes to snot just like the idle and low speed performance. '90, with a stock GT40 intake you are wasting your time porting the TW's and if you get a bigger intake expect the velocity and low speed performance to suffer in spite of whatever cam you chose. I have the AFR 185's and they are big for a 302, even a blown one. Ported my GT40 lower a few times and found that after the last go around making the lower the same port size as the 185's that I lost a lot of under 2k runnability and it bummed me out. Cam is a Crane old school 2030 1500 - 5500rpm.

For cam decisions, research it as best you can and then get the cam two sizes smaller than what you think you need. Especially if you want idle quality and low speed performance. Do a mild port job on your GT40 and you'll be surprised how it responds. Work hardest on ports one and five, and clean up the rest.

Jamie