Explorer Motor Swap Questions

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by BKM48198, Feb 19, 2014.

  1. 1989-1995 Mustang (E8ZE-6250-CA / F1ZE-6250-AA)
    276 / 266
    214 / 210
    0.444 / 0.444

    1993-1995 Cobra (F3ZE-6250-CA)
    270 / 270
    212 / 212
    0.451 / 0.451

    1996-2001 Explorer (F4TE-6250-BA)
    256 / 266
    186 / 197
    0.422 / 0.448

    The HO cam has about 20 more degrees of duration at .050 on the intake and 10 more on the exhaust- which is a noticeable difference in performance. Looking at the specs on the exploder cam, again it's designed to peter out at about 4500 rpm, a low rpm torque cam.
    #21 mikestang63, Feb 21, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2014
  2. Either way I go Mustang or Explorer it sounds like the springs should be replaced, I have heard good and bad about the b303 cam so I'm wondering if it would be much better than the stock cam from the HO motor, the springs are Ford Racing springs, the guy selling them and the cam has a large amount of Ford Racing parts he is selling on craigslist, i don't know a part number for them.
    #22 BKM48198, Feb 21, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2014
  3. The letter cams may be old school, but for a non max effort motor where you just want a fun toy, it'd be fine.

    If you're pulling junkyard motors, the explorer is probably the best start value wise unless you can find a 93-95 cobra motor for the same price. That way all you need is a cam swap and you have a better than cobra motor, and they're a dime a dozen.
    BKM48198 likes this.
  4. The Explorer motor deal fell thru due to a cracked block but I found a complete 87 5.0 HO motor from a Mustang at a good price, now I need to find a set of gt40 heads before I worry about a cam change.
  5. Well, after I got the alert that someone liked this post again, I went and forgot said tools at work. SOB
  6. alright, just cause i said i would, i measured the cams i have (stock 89 HO, 2001 explorer, tfs1). my numbers seem to confirm what mikestang63 posted (within .001-.002, production tolerances):

    .437 base circle
    .716 overall intake lobe .448 lift with 1.6 rocker
    .716 overall exhaust lobe .448 lift with 1.6 rocker

    .437 base circle
    .701 overall intake lobe .422 with 1.6 rocker
    .718 overall exhaust lobe .4496 (.450) with 1.6 rocker
    /\ i thought this was a bit odd as the stock HO and afaik all the letter cams are single-pattern, i.e. same intake and exhaust lobes.

    TFS1 (as a check to make sure that my method checks out, advertised as .499/.510)
    .382 intake base circle
    .692 overall intake lobe .496 with 1.6 rocker
    .368 exhaust base circle
    .685 overall exhaust lobe .507 with 1.6 rocker
    /\ within .003/.004 of advertised, and this is the cam i crashed, so looks like my method is on the right track. fwiw i degreed my new tfs cam when i put it in my explorer motor and iirc it was off .001-.002 as well but on a way rougher casting
    BKM48198 likes this.
  7. I finally found a GOOD motor, it's from a 96 Explorer. So I plan on swapping in my HO cam, new valve springs/seals/kit, and an oil pump. The next question is what is the best gasket set to go with, I want to replace all the gaskets while it is apart and I don't want to have any leaks once it is in the car, anyone have good or bad luck with any certain brand of gaskets?
  8. Felpro. Get the one piece rubber steel reinforced pan gasket, VC gaskets. for the intake, get the ones with the rubber end gaskets. While the engine is out, replace the rear main seal with a Felpro and a teflon liner.
    7991LXnSHO likes this.
  9. Those are what I used when I put the motor that is in the car now, the 1 piece pan gasket seemed much easier to install than the old style 4 piece, the the rubber intake set was nice also with the pins that fit in the block to keep them in place, the gaskets I am not sure of is which head gaskets are the best, which are the closest to the same as the OE gaskets so there won't be much difference for the push-rods. The only gaskets I didn't replace when I put the motor in 2 years ago were head gaskets and the rear main, but the motor I am about to put in will get all new gaskets. I have never pulled a rear main seal, is it OK to just use a small thin flat screwdriver to pull it or does it take a special tool? Also when installing the new seal I have heard to install dry and to lube first with a thin oil or white grease, any special tools required for installing or or is it just tap in evenly with a soft block of wood like other seals? Since I'm in my 50's I would prefer not to have to pull the trans again if I can get things done right the first time. I have done everything to my cars myself but this will be the first cam change and RMS change, I know I can do them just looking for pointers so I don't make any stupid mistakes.