Export brace options...

I thought TCP was Tango Uniform until Alston started selling their stuff. ?

I saw a niiiiiiice combo EB/MC bar on the Dallas Mustang Terlingua turnkey car in April. If they would sell that as a separate part, they would make a killing.

Also, Kanter Performance (www.kanter.com IIRC) has a removable MC bar for ~50, IIRC
 
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I have the "original" style one piece export ($40.00) and it had a noticeable improvement over the two individual stock arms. I agree, there are basically two types of cross braces: gee wiz and functional. The only brace that will strengthen the shock towers is one that connects to the towers, not the sheet metal inner fenders. Most DRIVEN cars that have the bars mounted this way end up with stress cracks in the sheetmetal, especially if the inner fenders are thin repros. I say this all the time but, check the boss chassis book for ideas that worked on the original track cars.
 
My personal opinion is if you have some special reason for getting the TCP stuff, MPG stuff, or Maier Stuff (referred above as MP), then it looks great.

The original stuff (previously on my car) is very functional and is inexpensive to boot. I'm not sure exactly why these other companys are using pivot arms in these areas since I'm not a structural engineer, but I like the rigidity of the stock set-up! I can actually feel the difference and I currently have the TCP stuff. The Maier one pictured here is set-up for EFI's...

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Something to remember is that the MC bar was designed to keep the shock towers from flwxing inwards during cornering. So moving the MC bar forward takes that advantage away. Also the MC bar should be a set length. You can always get the correct length and then have a machine shop make a bar for your particular application.

If you jack the front of the car up and support by only the front cross member, eventually the shock towers will "sag" back to the original position and you can fit a stock sized bar in there (with an assist from a rubber mallet). It took my car about a week to sag enough. I also had to drill some new holes to get everything to lineup.

I can post a picture later if you would like.
 
Here is my deal, I jacked the car last night by the crossmember, as of this morning, there was no noticable change. In the meantime, while the towers are settling (hopefully) I will get the rest of the nose off. Initial observation seems to show about a 1/2" difference between the towers and am looking at approx a 1/4" off between the towers and firewall. Once I get the brace on the two towers, if need be, I will jack the car under the firewall (on the frame of course) and hopefully she'll settle into place so I can continue my sheet metal work. If the towers do not spread enough, I have a porta power I can put in between and spread tham as I need to.
 
Psy - The canister is a Tefba coolant filter. The cap unscrews and there is a mesh screen inside that is removeable to clean. Very similar to the Gano filter, but you can clean the screen of the Tefba filter without dumping coolant everywhere. Here's a link that describes it better.