Thanks for the info on the side molding channel. I was thinking of just bondoing over it but thought, as sure as I do, someone would say it was the wrong way to do it. The hood scoop was cool before. I think you made a good thing even better. It sucks that you have holes to fill but. It's not like that is something YOU cant handle. How do you plan to patch them? I could use more tips & trick for my project lol.
Build Thread Finally! 89 Notch 2v Swap Progress Thread Project: 89mach1
- Thread starter CarMichael Angelo
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I know what you are saying. Just like I said in a reply to an earlier different thread, I don't let anything anybody says about the car concern me. It is still just a car. I just wasn't going to weld that gap shut, and hassle w/ the heat distortion that would've been right in the middle of the door. Everybody thinks that using a lot of Bondo is such a bad thing, (and in some cases it is) but in this channel it works for me. Watch any other show where they show somebody wipe an entire side of a car (straight already) with Bondo. I know that it'll all be sanded off to get the panel flawless straight, but fact is it's used that way. And I'll bet, Truth be known,....The All Stars on Car warriors use a butt load on some of the "projects" they create, And alot of it remains on the car.
It might not be the proper way to do it, but lets check the Rat's Red-Ass-ometer to see if I care..................
Nope!( You might wanna ck into getting one of these from Harbor Freight)
I will weld up the holes in the hood. I'll use a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum as a backer and fill that hole shut. The Aluminum will not stick to the back side, hole filled, problem solved. Some Grinding w/ a cutoff wheel turned on edge and it'll be smooth enough for it's fair share of bondo.
I tried using an aluminum piece of 1/4 round stock when I was trying to fill the gap in my side scoop. It melted into what looked like a pile of solder & I had to chisel it off with a hammer & a flat tip screw driver. I guess the welder was too hot or I need thicker aluminum for heat distribution. thanks for the tip though. next time i will try a series of tack welds with time to cool instead of running a bead. I'm still learning this stuff and it seems I learn best by making mistakes lol.
Chrome_Rust
Member
If you are still using it as a flux core welder, the unfortunate side effect is that flux core wire is harder to deal with as metal gauge get thinner. Flux core wire will actually weld thicker materials at the highest setting than it would w/ gas, there's just all that spatter and slag to deal with.
Yeah you gotta go easy when aluminum is used as a backer, It will reach it's melting point, and "attach" itself in the most inaccessible places.
When I was welding the grille surround attached to the pot metal headlight bucket, I got too carried away w/ the heat and the top of the headlight bucket blew away into this really hot liquid firework thingy.
Nope, you were amongst a LIST of those that didn't like the garage on my hood.
Now at least, low flying birds are safe again.
smokin joe
Founding Member
I just got my new issue of HOT ROD magazine. They featured home built and shop built cars. I guess I almost wanted to see your car in this rag because I am so impressed with the fabrication skills that you have.
BTW, if you are ever passing through DFW could you stop by and cut the front license plate recess off my 68 caddy and bring it to a point?
BTW, if you are ever passing through DFW could you stop by and cut the front license plate recess off my 68 caddy and bring it to a point?
Damn, just in Houston last month. Sorry, had I known I'd have no prob going the extra 500 miles outta my way
You're the second guy to tell me about that. What's on the front cover? thought I had the current issue.
You're sposed to come by and sand, or prime , or paint or somethin'!!!
No, not since the last posted pics. Working on the trunk, w/ the objective of putting that & the tail in prime tomorrow. If I can get that done, then pics will of course follow.
smokin joe
Founding Member
Damn, just in Houston last month. Sorry, had I known I'd have no prob going the extra 500 miles outta my way
You're the second guy to tell me about that. What's on the front cover? thought I had the current issue.
You're sposed to come by and sand, or prime , or paint or somethin'!!!
July 2011 issue, just got it last night.
I would love to sand, prime or paint something, but when we are on the 3rd coat of primer sanding the guide coat off you would probably kick me out of the garage and tell me to go home.
It's Friday! I must have something to talk about
Well, actually several fridays have went by, but this stuff drags ass!!
I decided to finish the trunk, (top AND bottom) and finish the tail section where I could get it in a few coats of etching primer.
While the rear has been close for several months now, the nit-picky stuff required to even think of primer much less paint, made the rear section a mile off.
So I removed the trunk and stripped the bottom to bare metal filled the weld gap w/ bondo and re-hung it. Filled and sanded the taillight panel where the section weld was, built some trim rings out of .080 x1/2 mild steel to surround the "stealth" exhaust tips, and filled and smoothed the rear bumper so I could say that I'm done w/ the rear end.
Here is Fk up # 237. Fortunately This can be sanded to increase the gap somewhat. I don't know how I got it so close, maybe I can twist the bumper (hell, maybe it twisted) No, actually I just suck. This really pisses me off!
Guess how many times I about cut my head off by sticking my head into the trunk w/ a welding hood on my head and bumping the 3/4" piece of conduit holding it up? (That'd be another one of my stupid stories that I wouldn't be around to tell) You cant see it but the bottom of the trunk edge is actually two pieces of 16 ga steel welded together. The trunk weighs about 30lbs w/ that damn spoiler on it so lets do the math shall we?
30 lbs, traveling a distance of 2.5 feet should have the sufficient speed to hack my head clean off, given the edge thickness of the trunk lip vs my neck.
Well that prompted me to fabricate the trunk lift shocks that you see hanging. They aren't hooked up yet. I haven't welded the bottom mounts in as of this pic. (You can see the damn sun is going down so fast I can barely get these pics taken)
Here is the trim ring that I made. I hated the exhaust tip just hanging out through a hole cut in the 18 ga. valance. So I made these one leg at a time, tacked it, adjusted it to fit, welded it and moved on until I had the rectangle you see here. It's rosette welded from the back side.
So Now, I'll move on to the passenger side and complete the mind numbing task of hand sanding that entire side (yeah!)
Well, actually several fridays have went by, but this stuff drags ass!!
I decided to finish the trunk, (top AND bottom) and finish the tail section where I could get it in a few coats of etching primer.
While the rear has been close for several months now, the nit-picky stuff required to even think of primer much less paint, made the rear section a mile off.
So I removed the trunk and stripped the bottom to bare metal filled the weld gap w/ bondo and re-hung it. Filled and sanded the taillight panel where the section weld was, built some trim rings out of .080 x1/2 mild steel to surround the "stealth" exhaust tips, and filled and smoothed the rear bumper so I could say that I'm done w/ the rear end.
Here is Fk up # 237. Fortunately This can be sanded to increase the gap somewhat. I don't know how I got it so close, maybe I can twist the bumper (hell, maybe it twisted) No, actually I just suck. This really pisses me off!
Guess how many times I about cut my head off by sticking my head into the trunk w/ a welding hood on my head and bumping the 3/4" piece of conduit holding it up? (That'd be another one of my stupid stories that I wouldn't be around to tell) You cant see it but the bottom of the trunk edge is actually two pieces of 16 ga steel welded together. The trunk weighs about 30lbs w/ that damn spoiler on it so lets do the math shall we?
30 lbs, traveling a distance of 2.5 feet should have the sufficient speed to hack my head clean off, given the edge thickness of the trunk lip vs my neck.
Well that prompted me to fabricate the trunk lift shocks that you see hanging. They aren't hooked up yet. I haven't welded the bottom mounts in as of this pic. (You can see the damn sun is going down so fast I can barely get these pics taken)
Here is the trim ring that I made. I hated the exhaust tip just hanging out through a hole cut in the 18 ga. valance. So I made these one leg at a time, tacked it, adjusted it to fit, welded it and moved on until I had the rectangle you see here. It's rosette welded from the back side.
So Now, I'll move on to the passenger side and complete the mind numbing task of hand sanding that entire side (yeah!)
Looks awesome. Good to see more progress is coming along on the build. Im sure you’ll get that mismatch at the bumper fixed up. You don’t suck at this stuff at all. The exhaust looks even better with the rectangles. Aside from the trunk nearly taking your head off, this thing is far from one of those Wyle E. Coyote moments. Keep up the good work!
Thanks. Yeah I know that while I don't suck,I just can't believe that this mismatch got by me. I had that damn bumper on and off 3-4 times for each side. It is clear that the rear valance fits beautifully, but I think I'm screwed as far as the gap goes. I checked, and I don't have that much bondo hanging off the lower rear quarter making up that edge................
Actually, I really am happy w/ the finish of most of it. It is close enough w/ the exception of the bumper/quarter gap to be able to block it smooth.
Actually, I really am happy w/ the finish of most of it. It is close enough w/ the exception of the bumper/quarter gap to be able to block it smooth.
Little to talk about,
All i could do to the gap in front of the passenger side rear bumper is done.
Before,
After.
Fortunately, there was a little extra filler filling in the gap. The problem was I forgot to finish this "detail before I primed the quarter. But....sigh of relief, I can live w/ this now.
Finshed the trunk supports. Not as heavy as I want them to be (only 27 lbs lift force ea.) so the trunk has to be lifted 7/8 of the way before the supports take it away from me. The important part is that they hold the damn guillotine up and off my head/neck/hands.
All i could do to the gap in front of the passenger side rear bumper is done.
Before,
After.
Fortunately, there was a little extra filler filling in the gap. The problem was I forgot to finish this "detail before I primed the quarter. But....sigh of relief, I can live w/ this now.
Finshed the trunk supports. Not as heavy as I want them to be (only 27 lbs lift force ea.) so the trunk has to be lifted 7/8 of the way before the supports take it away from me. The important part is that they hold the damn guillotine up and off my head/neck/hands.
Thanks man. I was prepared to grind the quarter to fix that gap. Fortunately it only took some 80 grit sandpaper.
- Dec 19, 2010
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Lookin good! Impressive as always, Mike!
Hey, bud, maybe it's just an optical conclusion, but the passenger side jackstand under the rear looks like it's workin' it's way off that cinder block!
May check that out!
Keep the pics comin!
Hey, bud, maybe it's just an optical conclusion, but the passenger side jackstand under the rear looks like it's workin' it's way off that cinder block!
May check that out!
Keep the pics comin!
Lookin good! Impressive as always, Mike!
Hey, bud, maybe it's just an optical conclusion, but the passenger side jackstand under the rear looks like it's workin' it's way off that cinder block!
May check that out!
Keep the pics comin!
Hell yeah that jack stand is getting ready to "f" me! Thanks for the eye.
