Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT
- Thread starter DudeStang
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
I filled the tank a couple of nights ago...not sure about the vent line but I can take a look when I can get the wheel off next.
You think it makes sense to drop the tank and try to identify the source of the leaks, maybe see if any seals or lock rings need to be replaced, before buying a whole new replacement tank?
If you can afford the downtime, drop tank and assess. Could be something as simple as a leaking evap purge grommet.
Thinking about it more, General is probably right, and it’s probably been going on for a while.
One leak (if you just knocked the vent loose the other day) would not have the rubber pads degrading like that.
Theres probably a slight leak that finally showed its face the last time you filled up, and has been wearing that rubber down for a while.
I just did a refurb on my tank, rather than replacing. Other than my bone head move of not fully tightening a lock ring at first, everything has been good! New fuel pump, new sender, new vent, and all seals and rings.
One leak (if you just knocked the vent loose the other day) would not have the rubber pads degrading like that.
Theres probably a slight leak that finally showed its face the last time you filled up, and has been wearing that rubber down for a while.
I just did a refurb on my tank, rather than replacing. Other than my bone head move of not fully tightening a lock ring at first, everything has been good! New fuel pump, new sender, new vent, and all seals and rings.
I think there is a thread about keeping a fire extinguisher in your car around here someplace.
Filler neck seal - vent and grommet - sender, seal, and ring - fuel pump, seal and ring. Also redid the seal at fuel fill and new gas cap.
Sanded the tank and straps down, and repainted all. The pads up top were in decent shape so I kept them. I just masked them off when I painted.
I also had all my fuel lines out at the same time, while I was welding in my subframes, and replaced all the flexible nylon portions of the lines. The steel lines I just sanded down with scotchbrite to clean them up.
All the parts are available. How crazy you go in your refurb all depends on you level of anal-retentiveness. 
When I did mine, I had to replace the tank due to a busted baffle. Since I got a new tank, it snowballed into getting most of the other components brand new, along with lots of paint, and elbow grease.
[/URL]
Also a few coats of SEM trim black on the tank cover make a huge difference
New tank, new tank padding, new fuel lines, new tank filler grommet, new fuel pump, new fuel pump hanger, painted everything, redid the wiring harness. Probably stangnets most detailed gas tank ever to grace the pages of the Forum
At a minimum, expect that you'll need a new tank filler grommet. These things tend to dry out and fall apart and tear when you drop the tank. Ford part number F4zz-9072-DA.
There may be other parts to replace once you get in there. You may want to consider changing the fuel pump while you are there to a Walbro 110LPH if it's original. I would recommend taking a peek inside the tank to look for corrosion or a busted baffle.
Should go without saying to start to draw down the level of gas in the tank, or siphon it off.
When I did mine, I had to replace the tank due to a busted baffle. Since I got a new tank, it snowballed into getting most of the other components brand new, along with lots of paint, and elbow grease.
Also a few coats of SEM trim black on the tank cover make a huge difference
New tank, new tank padding, new fuel lines, new tank filler grommet, new fuel pump, new fuel pump hanger, painted everything, redid the wiring harness. Probably stangnets most detailed gas tank ever to grace the pages of the Forum
At a minimum, expect that you'll need a new tank filler grommet. These things tend to dry out and fall apart and tear when you drop the tank. Ford part number F4zz-9072-DA.
There may be other parts to replace once you get in there. You may want to consider changing the fuel pump while you are there to a Walbro 110LPH if it's original. I would recommend taking a peek inside the tank to look for corrosion or a busted baffle.
Should go without saying to start to draw down the level of gas in the tank, or siphon it off.
I think I'm going to need to pick one up soon...
Just realized you already partially answered this before I asked the question...since apparently I can't read. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing details with pics. Did you know the baffle was broken before you dropped the gas tank? I read that there's a lot of noise when the baffle breaks and is moving around.All the parts are available. How crazy you go in your refurb all depends on you level of anal-retentiveness.
When I did mine, I had to replace the tank due to a busted baffle. Since I got a new tank, it snowballed into getting most of the other components brand new, along with lots of paint, and elbow grease.
[/URL]
Also a few coats of SEM trim black on the tank cover make a huge difference
New tank, new tank padding, new fuel lines, new tank filler grommet, new fuel pump, new fuel pump hanger, painted everything, redid the wiring harness. Probably stangnets most detailed gas tank ever to grace the pages of the Forum
At a minimum, expect that you'll need a new tank filler grommet. These things tend to dry out and fall apart and tear when you drop the tank. Ford part number F4zz-9072-DA.
There may be other parts to replace once you get in there. You may want to consider changing the fuel pump while you are there to a Walbro 110LPH if it's original. I would recommend taking a peek inside the tank to look for corrosion or a busted baffle.
Should go without saying to start to draw down the level of gas in the tank, or siphon it off.
I just looked at the fuel filler and it looks like where the neck attaches to the gas cap area definitely needs to be replaced, and there looks to be more spillage/residue on the end that goes into the fuel tank itself so I am thinking I will just order the whole fuel filler neck kit and replace all those parts.
Regarding reducing the amount of gas in the tank...when you say "draw down", did you have something in mind besides driving the car? Lol...I assume siphoning the gas into an appropriate container is a better idea but considering I just added a full tank a couple of days ago, that seems like it will take a few containers. Maybe once I get my fire extinguisher, I'll drive it a bit until I lower the amount in the tank...and hope that nothing crazy happens.
It looks like you upgraded the fuel tank straps along with everything else. Where did you get those? I looked at some on LMR but noticed a few comments saying there were fitment issues.
Edit: also meant to ask - I saw on the CJ Pony Parts video, they used what looked like a transmission jack. Any suggestions on what to use to drop the tank? I don't have a transmission jack yet but could be convinced to buy one or an adapter for my regular jack.
Last edited:
There are a couple ways to deal with the fuel in the tank, drive it around, and around and around some more or grab three 5gallon gas cans and hook a fuel line to the connector under the hood with a hose clamp of course, and jump the test connector by the master cylinder.
Oh, get the fire extinguisher first.
Oh, get the fire extinguisher first.
Is a 155LPH or 190LPH overkill for a mostly stock car? Asking because I'm not seeing the 110 on LMR....just on some other sites I don't recognize.
I put a 155lph on my stock motor, and so far there are no ill effects!
Not knocking LMR but there are other places to by parts, we get a discount with LMR but shop around, 155 lpr is fine for stock to mild mods.
I have ordered parts from LMR, American Muscle (didn’t have issues with them for a few years but things have apparently gotten worse there in the recent past), Steeda, CJ Pony Parts, National Parts Depot, and Car ID, maybe a couple of others I can’t think of right now. I mentioned LMR in this instance because I was already ordering the fuel filter neck kit and tank pads from them.
By far my best experiences in terms of shipping time, customer service, and parts being of advertised quality have been with LMR and Steeda so I try to stick with those when I can.
I took a couple more pics of the filler neck area and also picked up a fire extinguisher. Don’t mind the spider webs, lol.
Last edited:
Steel1
Mustang Master
Filler neck to tank gasket definitely looks like it's leaking but you'll be replacing all the gasket so that will be taken care of.
I have really good luck with Rock Auto when ordering stock replacement parts, good pricing, quick shipping etc.
My extinguisher is on the way..lol
I have really good luck with Rock Auto when ordering stock replacement parts, good pricing, quick shipping etc.
My extinguisher is on the way..lol
Thanks for sharing details with pics. Did you know the baffle was broken before you dropped the gas tank? I read that there's a lot of noise when the baffle breaks and is moving around.
I just looked at the fuel filler and it looks like where the neck attaches to the gas cap area definitely needs to be replaced, and there looks to be more spillage/residue on the end that goes into the fuel tank itself so I am thinking I will just order the whole fuel filler neck kit and replace all those parts.
Regarding reducing the amount of gas in the tank...when you say "draw down", did you have something in mind besides driving the car? Lol...I assume siphoning the gas into an appropriate container is a better idea but considering I just added a full tank a couple of days ago, that seems like it will take a few containers. Maybe once I get my fire extinguisher, I'll drive it a bit until I lower the amount in the tank...and hope that nothing crazy happens.
It looks like you upgraded the fuel tank straps along with everything else. Where did you get those? I looked at some on LMR but noticed a few comments saying there were fitment issues.
Edit: also meant to ask - I saw on the CJ Pony Parts video, they used what looked like a transmission jack. Any suggestions on what to use to drop the tank? I don't have a transmission jack yet but could be convinced to buy one or an adapter for my regular jack.
I knew the baffle was busted when I dropped the tank. If you rock the car side to side with a semi-full tank of gas, you can hear it knocking on the tank clear as day.
You can siphon off the gas, or it if looks like this leak is a slight oozing and has been there for a while, you are probably safe to drive. These leaks tend to occur when the tank is near full, so as you use up gas, it will likely leak less and less. Obviously though, leaking gas near hot exhaust is a concern, so if you feel unconfortable, just siphon the gas off, toss it in your daily driver, and prep to drop the tank.
My fuel straps were rusty, so I opted to just replace them. In hindsight I should have just restored my originals. I did have fitup issues, but the solution was to track down longer bolts which helped install. I guess LMR had enough complaints that they came up with a fuel tank strap stud setup to make install easy. You might be fine just wire-wheeling your straps down, and coating them with fresh paint.
I just tend to go overboard when I "restore" something, but what I've found is that if you can save/preserve/restore an original part, you should make the effort. A lot of aftermarket parts....are not good.
There's so much to this statement right here. Everything from replacement fenders not having edges as sharp to electronic components not being as reliable. And it's not all because of China. Part of the problem is in our disposable society, the perception is that new is automatically better because it looks nicer at first.
Similar threads
