Progress Thread finishing touches on my stroker build

doobismaximus

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Jul 18, 2014
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I haven't been on here in awhile. Mostly due t working and saving for more parts of course. Anyway im at a point where i will need some technical help with some ideas i have, and getting your feedback on what to do and what not to do. So i will give a brief rundown and we can go from there.
So as far as the exterior i have put on a new top. I have fr550 rims with nitt0 556 tires. 10s in the back and 9s up front. Also have slotted and grooved rotors with the best pads American muscle had. came as a set. Caliper covers do their job well as the red is a nice touch. I have flowmaster mufflers with 3 inch tips. Back cats are removed and pipe welded in place. front cats are physically there but i poked out all the insides. this car is non egr as you can tell now. H pipe is fine, not worth my time to change. got bbk shorty headers. I also put in a walboro 190 lph fuel pump and changed the gears to 355
Interior is still as much a process as the engine bay although not nearly as expensive :O_o: Im waiting to put in the new carpet i have while putting together a battery relocation kit as the ones ive seen are crap and wires are under sized from the comments. Choosing seats is just a click away,but that will be one of the last things i buy. Interested o see what aftermarket seats any of you guys have for the sn95 era stangs
Ok the main course... I broke down the engine to the bare block and took to an engine shop here in columbia SC. i had seen their work and didnt care the price. The rotating assembly is an eagle kit. Everything is forged in there that can be. Flywheel is 0 degree , so is the harmonic balancer which no longer balances:DClutch is a stage 2 Ram i think. Put in an adjustable cluth quadrant too. Clutch and flywheel came from american muscle as well as alot of these parts. or LMR. So far i have only reused the water pump, the starter and both were cleaned and painted a gray as well was the engine bay 2 coats color one coat clear. Heads are aluminum 190cc intake runner, 2.02 intake valve, 1.600 exhaust valve. got a comp cam with .580 lift. Roller rockers are also comp and 1.6 Got some nice tall valve covers on summit that say stroker and are a matte black finish. from the picture you can see thats about where i am.
I am currently porting an intake i got from pullapart off an old for explorer. Halfway done with porting then i will clean and paint the same gray.
So this is where i am going to ask some questions and suggestions from you stroker owners and all gear heads are welcome to chime in. i appreciate insight. i really do. Just dnt be a dick to one another and start going back and forth fighting over whos cock is smaller:p
Goals for the car are just a nice rebuilt sports car. I have had the car awhile and enjoy the cruising. I will probably one day make it to the track just to see what it does. Its not even gonna be a weeky driver. as i have a camry and a turbo diesel truck.
That outta the way lets get to some of the parts i was thinking about.
Getting a MSD distributor, i have some 9mm wires and plugs that i bought just before putting on jack stands 3 yrs ago:oops: yep this has been going awhile... :leghump:ing kids man...
bbk 70 mm throttle body should slap right up to that intake. I have the elbow as well for it. Any fitment issues i should be aware of?
got a SR preformance cold air intake that i will put back on. As far as the mass air meter i am going to calibrate for 44lb injectors. i may put a nitrous setup eventually, no more than 150-200 shot in the future well after its broken in proper.
I am going to purchase the Infinity AEM 708 stand alone computer. Its expensive, but so was the motor work. My buddy has a gtr, and a tuner in charolette so we are good there. Any of you guys have this computer?
Aeromotive fuel pressure gauge, already have it. Do you guys think i can use my old fuel rails or should i purchase high flow ones?
Debating on puttin back in the radiator as its in good shape and the sn had a better one than the previous years. thoughts?
Subframe connectors? probably will do that also.
All new vacuum lines
Under drive pullies???
AEM wideband
new wiring harness as the old on is pretty crusty.
I have taken off all the smog stuff. also the A/C. Why? Cause its a convertible and will only be driven on sunny days and never in dead summer or winter. It will be in this garage in the photos. Im debating just putting on a smaller belt instead of those bypass pullies.
Im sure there is some other stuff im missing as far as getting it to turn over and some of the stuff on here is not needed for that but i pulled enough from my 401k to finish it. There is not enough for a supercharger:mad:, but its not really setup for that.
Ok so i do know there is a threshold for hp on these motors. I know a good bit about my particular era mustang. Like i said this is a car i will drive to work maybe twice a month, to the beach and tool around in. Hopefully the transmission holds up:shrug:
I appreciate whoever has taken the time to read my post.
 

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Monkeybutt2000

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Well,you didn't say what stroker,so 331 or 347? I've never had the need to replace the stock distributor,they work very well. I wouldn't use any other TB than Accufab. They are so much nicer than anything else on the market. Not familiar with the AEM unit. Is there a reason you don't want to go Megasquirt or any of the other units? We've got a hell'uva tuner here that is a PRO on Megasquirt. Why such a big injector? Without a doubt get MM full length subframes,or something comparable. Fuel rails will be fine.
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
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Engine bay looks nice! If you haven't already got the BBK throttle body, I have to agree about the accufab throttle body. I have those on 2 of my 3 mustangs. The other mustang is stock so that's why 2 out of 3. They are superior to the BBK in my opinion, but if you already have the BBK it should be fine. I am a megasquirt owner/user and I highly reccomend it. Once you start straying from a stock setup the things it can do are pretty endless.

Chris
 
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96pushrod

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I’ve never personally used the aem controller, from what I understand they look like nice units though. I don’t know if I’d choose one over some of the other, cheaper 5.0 ford options. I’m eager to see how you like it though.

Everyone here is pretty dead set on accufab throttle bodies huh? They’re nice, but I wouldn’t sell a working unit from another brand just to get one, unless you’re looking to go bigger. Honestly my car ran the same with the no name 75mm as it does with the accufab 90mm. Shoot I would’ve kept the 75 if I hadn’t changed over from a sn95 Tb to a fox style.
 

revhead347

Just rub Vaseline all over
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I’ve never personally used the aem controller, from what I understand they look like nice units though. I don’t know if I’d choose one over some of the other, cheaper 5.0 ford options. I’m eager to see how you like it though.

Everyone here is pretty dead set on accufab throttle bodies huh? They’re nice, but I wouldn’t sell a working unit from another brand just to get one, unless you’re looking to go bigger. Honestly my car ran the same with the no name 75mm as it does with the accufab 90mm. Shoot I would’ve kept the 75 if I hadn’t changed over from a sn95 Tb to a fox style.

Does Accufab even make a TB for an SN? If they do, that's something new that I missed. I've been using the same BBK/Edelbrock for 20 years problem free.

Kurt
 

96pushrod

Mustang Master
May 15, 2018
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Does Accufab even make a TB for an SN? If they do, that's something new that I missed. I've been using the same BBK/Edelbrock for 20 years problem free.

Kurt
They do not. I actually emailed them about this years ago. They made a run of like 10 of them but never made them a permanent thing.

I’ve used bbk as well as one of the no-name tb’s from American muscle. Both worked good.
 

doobismaximus

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Jul 18, 2014
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Well,you didn't say what stroker,so 331 or 347? I've never had the need to replace the stock distributor,they work very well. I wouldn't use any other TB than Accufab. They are so much nicer than anything else on the market. Not familiar with the AEM unit. Is there a reason you don't want to go Megasquirt or any of the other units? We've got a hell'uva tuner here that is a PRO on Megasquirt. Why such a big injector? Without a doubt get MM full length subframes,or something comparable. Fuel rails will be fine.
Its a 347 stroker. The AEM 708 is good for like 30 yrs of mustangs as far as interchangeability goes. Plus it makes a million calculations a second. My buddy has one in his gtr. Its over kill. But between these new parts and the motor work i want the extra insurance of not detonating my engine. The injector size is also overkill, so when i do add some nitrous, i wont go over 80% duty cycle. I appreciate the insight on the throttle body and will look into that.
 

doobismaximus

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Jul 18, 2014
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sumter sc
So today was mounting lower intake that i ported. Everything was going perfect. Then i dropped a washer down an intake runner...
im 99% positive it went down a runner where there is a gap with the valve. I tried to use my magnet but no luck. Im thinking my only option is pulling the head.
What a nightmare this project is.
 

doobismaximus

Member
Jul 18, 2014
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sumter sc
I can see the valve has roughly a 1/4 gap.
I will try, but im thinking maybe take off the exhaust header and maybe its sitting right there???
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Aug 25, 2016
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Steel washer or aluminum?
if you dropped it down the intake runner and didn't turn the motor over it would be hopefully on top of the intake valve.
 

doobismaximus

Member
Jul 18, 2014
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i bought an arp pack of 12. i would say aluminum.I took the exhaust off driver side. no luck inn any of the ports. Not even sure it would have slid threw like that. im more of a carpenter building this thing
I will say this, 6/8 valves are seated looking at it from the lower intake manifold side. i tried my magnet in all of them and no luck. The 2 valves that are open, one is a 1/4 the other 1/8. Both are opposite each other.
This leads me to believe that if i pull one side and dont see it, its in the other obviously. Thing is, i paid an enigine builder to do this work. If i take these heads off im probably gonna have to either get him to come to my house to put them back on or take the motor back out to bring it to him.
I watched a video on installing heads, and i know its way out of my league. Im not really concerned with the $. I sold my soul to the devil a long time ago...
This just pisses me off cause its back tracking like 15 hours of my time. which is more scarce then $
Thanks for your input General, the shop vac didnt work either. I even duct taped a small tube to flex in there...
Its probably sitting on top of a piston. What do yall think?
 

doobismaximus

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Jul 18, 2014
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sumter sc
I guess maybe to me its the possibility of :leghump:ing something up, like i already just have. its gonna be real hard for me to take off a head that was put on by a guy who does it for a living and get the same results. Im gonna try a thinner magnet and a telescopic camera on monday. a buddy is gonna bring them to work so ill have more details to give.
I have a torque wrench, just not the confidence in myself to not :leghump: it up even more. Im like 12k into total restoration so far.
I did all the removal and cleanup. Even did the convertible top did the fuel pump. also the gears. But im shying away from pulling the heads myself.
If you know of some good info for me in case i get the brass to do it please feel free to send me a link that you know of. It hard out here for us kindergartners
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Convertible top? Fuel pump? Gears?
And you need some brass to pull a head?
check out the technical/how to forums for some brass.
 

doobismaximus

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Jul 18, 2014
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sumter sc
Alright so i have finally found the washer. It it not laying flat which is why i had trouble seeing it. Was able to slip a bore scope in past the valve and sure as :poo: there it is leaning up on the side of the cylinder wall. I have a buddy bringing me a flexible magnet about the width of a NO. 2 pencil that flexes really well. So if he brings it to work tomorrow, ill fish that thing out of there and no harm no foul. Then i can prime the oil pump an set this lower manifold and the spacer. I have ordered some vacuum lines to put fresh lines on te ones i need and some caps on the ones im not using. Got my brackets all degreased and painted so can mount the accessories. I have an AC delete and a smog delete to mount. New 200 amp alternator and am gonna clean up and paint my power steering pump. Im trying to reuse some things that were just fine, but making the whole engine bay appear new is a goal.
I was wondering about everyone opinion on 3 core radiators. Ive compared both from LMR and AM. The SVE looks like the winner to me. Let me know what you guys are running and how they are working out.
I have a 195 degree thermostat, do you guys think i should roll with this or go a little cooler?
I also have started to remove the positive wire harness to clean up and reassemble to lead from the trunk. Bought a moroso battery relocation kit. Just need to get some new cable for the lead and the corrugated tubing for protection.
Thats all for now. Ill post some new photos after i do a few of these items.
Thanks for your input guys, whether i took it or not.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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So what you’re saying is that the washer has made it past the valve, and is now in the cylinder? I’m almost positive that you are going to have to pull that head. Firstly, that valve is gonna attract that magnet. Secondly, if you do manage to get it past the valve, the cylinder will do the same. lastly, if you get it past the valve, and it doesn’t stick to the cylinder, and actually gets the washer, trying to drag that thing out past the valve will probably prove futile.

A cylinder head r&r is caveman simple. If you have managed to change rear end gears, and get them properly set up, something that 90% of the guys on this forum, myself included cannot do, Then you can certainly remove the 10 bolts that are holding the head on. Everybody here has had a OMG moment when they dropped something they didn’t dare drop,..But prolonging the fix trying to drag a washer out of a cylinder with a magnet is gonna drive you crazy.

But I still think you should try.