First Build

[Mario88]

Hey all! I'm doing my first build and have a ton of questions as I'm a noob!
I'm building a 88 gt and so far have the following:
Trick flow twisted wedge fast as cast, bbk cold air, 97 explorer upper and lower, trick flow roller rockers, 24lb injectors, ford racing plug wires... All this is waiting for a throttle body, exhaust including headers and a a Megasquirt with o2 sensors as for I have speed density set up. I was told a speed density can make more hp and less headache than a mass air conversion, opinions or experiences on a density vs mass air? Also was told the made in Mexico factory blocks have a 700hp rating, truths? If so do you know of ways to ID what I have? Do you think a 65mm tbody will be a good size? I'm targeting 375-400hp. I'm new and inexperienced so I'm asking in efforts to learn and hope you guys will go easy!
Thanks stangers!
Mario

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Mexico blocks, if the urban myth were true, would not be roller cam because of their vintage. Your parts should not overtax a stock block that is built to specs. If you are going with an aftermarket TB, a 70mm unit with minimal intake match porting would be good. If you are doing a JY swap, 65mm will be ok.
A stock style mass air conversion will compensate for your changes better than a stock speed density computer will. But if you do not have to pass emissions, the Megasquirt system is powerful. Are you ready to program it yourself?

 

[A5literMan]

The Mexican block is slightly denser. So in theory they are a little stronger. They aren't strong enough to take significantly more power than a roller block. Like stated above they are NOT a roller cam motor. To run a roller cam in a Mexican block you'll need link bar roller lifters. Do you have an extra block sitting around that you believe is one? If it's in reference to your "original" 88 motor then no it's not one. Your present mods do not necessitate a block upgrade. As far as TB sizing goes I recommend a 70mm Accufab. The cheaper TB(BBK for example) have a tendency to have a few issues like whistling and sticking at WOT. If you can do the necessary work yourself I do recommend going straight to a standalone ecu like Megasquirt or equivalent. Skip the conversion.

 

[90lxwhite]

Hey all! I'm doing my first build and have a ton of questions as I'm a noob!
I'm building a 88 gt and so far have the following:
Trick flow twisted wedge fast as cast, bbk cold air, 97 explorer upper and lower, trick flow roller rockers, 24lb injectors, ford racing plug wires... All this is waiting for a throttle body, exhaust including headers and a a Megasquirt with o2 sensors as for I have speed density set up. I was told a speed density can make more hp and less headache than a mass air conversion, opinions or experiences on a density vs mass air? Also was told the made in Mexico factory blocks have a 700hp rating, truths? If so do you know of ways to ID what I have? Do you think a 65mm tbody will be a good size? I'm targeting 375-400hp. I'm new and inexperienced so I'm asking in efforts to learn and hope you guys will go easy!
Thanks stangers!
Mario

What size trick flow's, the 170's? Are you talking 375-400 hp at the tires or motor?

 

[Mario88]

What size trick flow's, the 170's? Are you talking 375-400 hp at the tires or motor?[/QUOT

 

[Mario88]

LXN I don't have emissions here but I do not know how to tune a Megasquirt.
A5- I have an 87-88 gts, 87 is standard 88 is auto. Guess I was hoping to get lucky... as far as mass air or CPU I have been talkin to the guys at Megasquirt and wanna go that way, how hard is it to learn the tune?
90lx they are the 170s and I wanna max the block safely if that makes any sense

 

[A5literMan]

Here are some things you need to know. A factory roller cam 5.0 block is good to arguably 500rwhp(550-600 flywheel). They tend to crack in high pressure(blower/turbo etc) or high rpm(6500+rpm). Your above stated plans will net around 285-300rwhp and a max rpm under 6000rpms. So the factory block is fine. Also if this is the extent of your plans just run a MAF conversion. It's straight forward and relatively easy. A 70mm MAF(calibrated for 24# inj I prefer PRO-M)and proper computer will run your project more than adequately. A Megasquirt type build isn't as easy and there is a learning curve. If you are able to read wiring/circuit boards etc and understand computers well and understand fuel/timing tables for tuning then go that way. Its not just a wire it in and turn the key type of deal and you can damage the motor. Fwiw it's only really necessary if you plan on modifying the motor further and/or you just want to. There isn't a great difference in power potential or a drivability upgrade with your mods.

 

[Mario88]

Here are some things you need to know. A factory roller cam 5.0 block is good to arguably 500rwhp(550-600 flywheel). They tend to crack in high pressure(blower/turbo etc) or high rpm(6500+rpm). Your above stated plans will net around 285-300rwhp and a max rpm under 6000rpms. So the factory block is fine. Also if this is the extent of your plans just run a MAF conversion. It's straight forward and relatively easy. A 70mm MAF(calibrated for 24# inj I prefer PRO-M)and proper computer will run your project more than adequately. A Megasquirt type build isn't as easy and there is a learning curve. If you are able to read wiring/circuit boards etc and understand computers well and understand fuel/timing tables for tuning then go that way. Its not just a wire it in and turn the key type of deal and you can damage the motor. Fwiw it's only really necessary if you plan on modifying the motor further and/or you just want to. There isn't a great difference in power potential or a drivability upgrade with your mods.

How hard is the mass air conversion? I was told its complex and expensive. I've had about 50-50 response when I talk to people about mass air vs SD, makes it tough for a noob. I know jack shinola when it comes to tuning, spark, fuel,air,and timing... If I went mega, the plan would be to take it to a guy outta Albuquerque to tune and hope he'd share some knowledge and insight into the tune concept.

 

[Mario88]

Also other plans are cam, exhaust including headers, pushrods,ignition... Piecing it together as I can afford, that said I'm open to working used parts

 

[A5literMan]

The mass air conversion is less involved than going to Megasquirt! You won't be able to JUST add Megasquirt after parts installation and even start the car! It won't run! The aftermarket SD vs MAF argument is geared towards people who are looking for that few extra HP. The MAF conversion is straight forward. You have to splice some wires with a new MAF and swap out the computer. Depending on which Megasquirt system you use,you have to build circuit boards and jumpers PLUS wiring and installation of ecu PLUS hooking up a laptop to the ecu and PROGRAMMING. It's NOT a simple thing. You do not fit the profile for a Standalone ecu buyer. Not saying you couldn't learn how to(don't know you or your abilities) but I don't recommend you going that direction. There are a lot of write ups on the MAF conversion on here and other websites.

 

[Mario88]

They do a Megasquirt that's a direct replacement and call it the plug n play complete with USB ports yadda yadda they also pre load for a start up... However I totally feel what you're saying about being outta my element, why I'm here. I read a lot about the mass air swap and thought it SOUNDED easy, then I talked to some reccomended local experts and they said its a sonovabitch to do all the vacs and sensors and locations. Not arguing in favor of a squirt, just relaying info I've bee given.

 

[A5literMan]

Yup I've done the conversion(I have an 86 w/conv) and have looked into the PnP. I've also looked into the PiMP microsquirt,Holley systems,etc. The PnP is more complicated than a conversion. Just sayn'. You probably can DIY. Only one way to find out. Having a PnP is waaaay better for fine tuning. You could also do a MAF conv with a dyno tune. Costs are similar. Results would be similar.

 

[TOOLOW91]

They do a Megasquirt that's a direct replacement and call it the plug n play complete with USB ports yadda yadda they also pre load for a start up... However I totally feel what you're saying about being outta my element, why I'm here. I read a lot about the mass air swap and thought it SOUNDED easy, then I talked to some reccomended local experts and they said its a sonova**** to do all the vacs and sensors and locations. Not arguing in favor of a squirt, just relaying info I've bee given.

I wouldn't call them "experts" if they are telling you its a son of a bitch. Its a bit involved but its literallay a days work and splicing and moving some wires around. Adding the mass air sensor and the computer and i am sure capping off a vac line.

 

[TOOLOW91]

What you are looking to do power wise is fine. I didn't see a cam mentioned - any plans for that ? a nice tfs 1 would work well and has great manners with a nice idle. Also if you have the extra cash buy an accufab 70 TB and sell your manifold for a better one . Even if you have to wait some extra time it will be worth it then youll make around 300-320 at the wheels .

On the block stuff i ran 435 rwhp at 8 lbs of boost through one but i would not take it past 500 as mentioned.

 

[Mario88]

Yea I mentioned cam, headers, and exhaust a bit ago... That trick flow stage 1 or the E303 opinions!? Second guy that mentioned accufab so I guess that settles the TB question. Pushrods are also coming also. Opinions on headers and exhaust?

 

[TOOLOW91]

Yea I mentioned cam, headers, and exhaust a bit ago... That trick flow stage 1 or the E303 opinions!? Second guy that mentioned accufab so I guess that settles the TB question. Pushrods are also coming also. Opinions on headers and exhaust?

TFS 1 over e cam i hate letter cams . yes they will work but there is much newer cam technology out there the tfs was great to m while i had it . The push rod size that would come in the kit if you ordered from tfs would be 6.700 in hardened ones . They should work but measuring push rod length is always good to do. Headers- BBK works fine . I have had shortys forver and just ordered long tubes today because i am getting to the point of making some power. IF you are in the market for good used shortys let me no i can work something out with you fairly cheap for them .

 

[hoopty5.0]

Your heads flow a little better than your intake. the lower intake is the choke and can be ported to match the flow of the heads relatively cheaply. Look into Tmoss porting if you have the extra change to spend.

 

[Mario88]

Sounds like the trick flow cam is preferred, guess I'll go that route. I did want to port that lower hoopty, never heard Tmoss, will check into it. What's a port job cost these days and is it too hard for a noob do it yourselfer?

 

[TOOLOW91]

Sounds like the trick flow cam is preferred, guess I'll go that route. I did want to port that lower hoopty, never heard Tmoss, will check into it. What's a port job cost these days and is it too hard for a noob do it yourselfer?

Tmoss -Tom moss is the man when it comes to porting I don't no if he's on here much

 

[Mario88]

I'm also very interested in those headers, can you message me?