I installed my new (and revised for 2004) PMS unit yesterday and have posted my thoughts about it. Let me also add, that for us 94-95 owners with mods, I have gotten an almost stock type idle out of it in less than an hour. Something that was never obtainable with the custom burned Fordchip I removed. Very user friendly, and no laptop required (unless you want to datalog)
1.) As I suspected, the new harness is a PITA as far as hook-up to the PCM and car harness are concerned. I really wasn't too happy twisting the fragile looking wiring around on my brand new PMS harness, but that's the way it is. Both PMS "harness plugs" face the same direction, so when you plug it into the PCM, the other plug has to be twisted around so the car harness can be plugged in. There was no way to "cleanly" install this part IMO. My kick panel sticks out now because the wiring that used to be tucked down in below the PCM is now unable to...Not a biggie, but be aware.
2.) The "Anchor Point Mode" is a savior to our thumbs, LOL. Basically when you start making a change, all the numbers in the "cells" near it, in every direction, also change in the same direction. With roughly 12 changes, I had all PT parameters set....That was sweet! Thumbs Up!
3.) I didn't have to use the "Idle Control" in my previous car, that had the older PMS in it, so I was a little perplexed, but only until I figured that I needed to "tweak" the factory IAC adjustment and close the throttle body butterfly to where it was supposed to be. That was the longest "problem" that I had...Now the car idles at 950, and if you rev it up, it comes down in two steps, just like a stocker...The car idles great, and I think I can tweak it to idle even better in time...
Overall, I'm very happy and also impressed with the new unit. I had an older version on my old blower car that Spence and I tuned from a low 11 second car, to a low 10 second car, with several PMS keystrokes. Quite a few times I got screwed up on the unmarked buttons, which was annoying...I'm sure with some more usage, it'll be no big deal, but IMO it'd be a lot nicer with some sort of labeling for the buttons. Changes are easier to make than with the previous unit IMO, and the only real gripe I have is that I wish it was able to turn the cooling fan on at a more desired setting.
I set my Stand Alone to come on at 2,000 rpm's, but at 70% TPS voltage, that way I'm mashing the gas pedal to the floor, which is the only time I'd prefer to be in Stand Alone anyway. I felt absolutely no hiccup, or flat spot when it went into Stand Alone, and already the car "feels" better than it ever did with a "custom burned" chip....
Any specific questions, feel free to post them and I'll try to answer...
Here's two pics of the display:
(Notice on the close-up, that the rpm and O2 readings are a little blurred due to them fluttering around like they should)
RPM = obviously Engine RPM
Fuel = Injector duty cycle on the left, pulsewidth on the right
Timing = Actual ignition timing
TPS = throttle position
Load = PMS mass air meter load on left, meter voltage on right
O2 L/R = O2 sensor voltage left & right (wideband would show on left if used)
Temp W/A = water temp on left/intake air temp on right
Mn Press = Manifold pressure
Here is a link to the user manual. I don't have a scanner, so I had to take pics and post them, LOL...
http://home.comcast.net/~truecolorscollisionunlimited/wsb/html/view.cgi-photos.html-.html
1.) As I suspected, the new harness is a PITA as far as hook-up to the PCM and car harness are concerned. I really wasn't too happy twisting the fragile looking wiring around on my brand new PMS harness, but that's the way it is. Both PMS "harness plugs" face the same direction, so when you plug it into the PCM, the other plug has to be twisted around so the car harness can be plugged in. There was no way to "cleanly" install this part IMO. My kick panel sticks out now because the wiring that used to be tucked down in below the PCM is now unable to...Not a biggie, but be aware.
2.) The "Anchor Point Mode" is a savior to our thumbs, LOL. Basically when you start making a change, all the numbers in the "cells" near it, in every direction, also change in the same direction. With roughly 12 changes, I had all PT parameters set....That was sweet! Thumbs Up!
3.) I didn't have to use the "Idle Control" in my previous car, that had the older PMS in it, so I was a little perplexed, but only until I figured that I needed to "tweak" the factory IAC adjustment and close the throttle body butterfly to where it was supposed to be. That was the longest "problem" that I had...Now the car idles at 950, and if you rev it up, it comes down in two steps, just like a stocker...The car idles great, and I think I can tweak it to idle even better in time...
Overall, I'm very happy and also impressed with the new unit. I had an older version on my old blower car that Spence and I tuned from a low 11 second car, to a low 10 second car, with several PMS keystrokes. Quite a few times I got screwed up on the unmarked buttons, which was annoying...I'm sure with some more usage, it'll be no big deal, but IMO it'd be a lot nicer with some sort of labeling for the buttons. Changes are easier to make than with the previous unit IMO, and the only real gripe I have is that I wish it was able to turn the cooling fan on at a more desired setting.
I set my Stand Alone to come on at 2,000 rpm's, but at 70% TPS voltage, that way I'm mashing the gas pedal to the floor, which is the only time I'd prefer to be in Stand Alone anyway. I felt absolutely no hiccup, or flat spot when it went into Stand Alone, and already the car "feels" better than it ever did with a "custom burned" chip....
Any specific questions, feel free to post them and I'll try to answer...
Here's two pics of the display:
(Notice on the close-up, that the rpm and O2 readings are a little blurred due to them fluttering around like they should)
RPM = obviously Engine RPM
Fuel = Injector duty cycle on the left, pulsewidth on the right
Timing = Actual ignition timing
TPS = throttle position
Load = PMS mass air meter load on left, meter voltage on right
O2 L/R = O2 sensor voltage left & right (wideband would show on left if used)
Temp W/A = water temp on left/intake air temp on right
Mn Press = Manifold pressure
Here is a link to the user manual. I don't have a scanner, so I had to take pics and post them, LOL...
http://home.comcast.net/~truecolorscollisionunlimited/wsb/html/view.cgi-photos.html-.html