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Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by PreRolled_Exotics, Aug 3, 2014.
That'll do perfectly
I'd try snugging up those valve cover bolts first. They tend to come loose over time with all the vibration the engine creates.
The flames are too Furious.
Too Furious because it looks like he's going too Fast
Mine is up at bout 1100rpm on cold start then after it warms up it idles from 680 to 900. This is something new so i checked the codes with a test light and got 63 and 31 (i think) one was a tps reference other was egr. So im going to chang that tps and hopefully that will even out my idle.
I've never seen a car with flames painted on it and thought "wow that's really cool". Not even ghost flames. They're lame in my opinion however it's your car and you can paint pink polka dots on it for all I care.
The only flames I've ever liked were gold leafed onto a chopper motorcycle.
The flames are not my taste, but I've seen worse. For a kid's first car, I say they are bad ass. They add 20hp by the way.
Ah I see, so if flames are +20hp then I'm going to say scallops are -20hp
Flames are for old guys!
But stickers are known to add 10hp each.
Checked bolts. They were finger loose! Haha crazy man thanks for that tip! My question now is do I need to remove everything to get to them all? Might as well replace the gasket while I'm in there right? And is my TPS bad without that plastic cover on it? Yeah I'm thinking the flames are going to be removed after engine trans and suspension get some attention. But until then it's "FLAME ON JOHNNY!"
If the gaskets are cork, Id replace them. If rubber, then party on Garth. (assuming they're newer.)
You need to remove the upper intake manifold to access the bolts for the valve covers. Make sure to note what goes where for vacuum lines when removing. Take pictures, lots of them because they're better than our memory most of the time.
All you need to do it remove the bolts holding the upper intake on- you will need to remove the intake plate on top that are heldon with torx screws to get to the bolts on top. Remove the intake tube from the throttle body. Then pop off the throttle cable from the throttle body- if yours is an AOD remove the TV cable carefully from the same bracket, unplug the TPS, EGR connections, undo the EGR and vacuum hoses and lift the intake off. Cover the lower intake openening with a rag or some tape as things tend to fall in there and then you are screwed.
Once that is off, you can remove both sides of the valve covers. I would highly recommend you spend the extra money and get the Felpro blue rubber gaskets that have steel inserts, You can reuse them over and over and they do not crush. They go on dry. Snug up the bolts and do not overtighten- may 5lb torque but I just snug them up.
Bolt everything back together- you may want to use a new upper to lower intake gasket as the one you have on is probably 20+ years old.
TPS are cheap.. Just replace it and be done with it..
please get a new rear bumper cover too. A GT with cutouts in the rear bumper is
Yeah I was thinking that was pretty lame as well haha. My poor car had a confused previous owner lmao. Will the LX bumper allow the pipes to clear??
Got the spout connector today. I'll be ordering a new TPS sensor and gaskets next week. Along with a code reader. Any one have a good recommendation?? I've seen links to a couple but can't find them now
once again thank you too everyone for the help so far. Just a couple responses and I've made great progress getting things back up to shape! Another quick question.. Got a couple deals in my area for gt40 heads and intake. Are they worth the up grades or should I focus on saving for a 351 swap
You shouldn't need the code reader if you have the test light.
As far as the 351 swap goes - If that's the route you want to go, buy a good set of aluminum heads you can carry over to the 351 once you buy it. Buying gt40 heads and using them on a 351 won't net you good results. 302 parts make 302 power.