Progress Thread Floor pan repair/build thread

sav22rem22

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I used the 80mil Killmat and then 2 layers of the noico heat barrier. the car is very quite and it stopped the heat off the floorboard.
Hmm I’m going to definitely look into this. Once I get all of this done and put back together I’m going to combine all of this with some quality tint and hopefully it’ll make a noticeable difference
 
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sav22rem22

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I can say the Dynomat I put in the valdez did the job, it was very hot under my feet and down the trans tunnel before, the heat under this car is enough it melts the rubber seal at the shifter hole.
now it's barley warm.
That’s wild that it was enough to melt the rubber shift boot. I’m actually about to finally put in the shift boot and it’ll be the first time the cars had one since it was swapped to manual who knows how long ago. Having some trouble getting the tunnel hump from lmr to fit correctly
 

sav22rem22

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Small update: all parts have been in for a while but I’ve been on vacation and haven’t had time to mess with the car. It will be going to the guy who’s going to fix it around Monday or Tuesday. I’ve decided to go with Kilmat 80 for sound deadening and am considering noico heat barrier. Car will be getting the square area of the pan where the back of the seat sits replaced on both sides and up by the firewall will be patched as well. Will have my guy pull the fenders and see if the base of the windshield/cowl is rotted which would explain the rust in the floor.
 

sav22rem22

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You can find it easily on Amazon.
https://amzn.to/2WbtoWE I’m assuming this is it. I’m glad you mentioned this because the southern heat is absolutely brutal and this will come in handy on top of the kilmat that will be going in. Maybe now I won’t be cooked alive when I get in the car after a hot day and when combined with the tint I’ll be throwing on should be a good combo
 

a91what

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https://amzn.to/2WbtoWE I’m assuming this is it. I’m glad you mentioned this because the southern heat is absolutely brutal and this will come in handy on top of the kilmat that will be going in. Maybe now I won’t be cooked alive when I get in the car after a hot day and when combined with the tint I’ll be throwing on should be a good combo
yup thats the stuff
 

sav22rem22

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Well a bit of an update. The car is still under the knife and has been for over a month now. If anyone hasn’t already seen I recently bought a 2017 Mustang Gt and will most likely have to slow down a little bit on the fox. I have tomorrow off and I may swing by to the guy who’s fixing it and see how it’s doing.
 
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JasonRP

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Congrats @sav22rem22 !! My daughter just got a S550 ecoboost, and it is a beautiful car. I know that same gorgeous car, with V8 noise coming out of it, would be AMAZING!

I know when I had my floorpans welded in (I long ago made a decision- I will do all my own work, except for welding) the shop did a great job, but took months. I think these guys would make more money overall if they could schedule work such that jobs get done and out. I only say this because, if other customers are like me, I get fired up about my car- and will do a lot of work if I can strike while the iron is hot. If I get delayed months, next thing you know, I'm excited about something else for a while, less likely to spend $$$ on my car project for a bit, until I get excited about it again..

I don't know- first world rant on my part I guess. I know those guys are busy and have their reasons too- I'm not hating on them! But I can't help but wonder- if your car was fixed sooner, would you have bought the '17 GT? Maybe you'd be back in their shop paying for more stuff?
 
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sav22rem22

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Congrats @sav22rem22 !! My daughter just got a S550 ecoboost, and it is a beautiful car. I know that same gorgeous car, with V8 noise coming out of it, would be AMAZING!

I know when I had my floorpans welded in (I long ago made a decision- I will do all my own work, except for welding) the shop did a great job, but took months. I think these guys would make more money overall if they could schedule work such that jobs get done and out. I only say this because, if other customers are like me, I get fired up about my car- and will do a lot of work if I can strike while the iron is hot. If I get delayed months, next thing you know, I'm excited about something else for a while, less likely to spend $$$ on my car project for a bit, until I get excited about it again..

I don't know- first world rant on my part I guess. I know those guys are busy and have their reasons too- I'm not hating on them! But I can't help but wonder- if your car was fixed sooner, would you have bought the '17 GT? Maybe you'd be back in their shop paying for more stuff?
Yeah I think this definitely played a big part in it. I didn’t expect it to take this long since he’s usually very quick but I guess I did hand him a pretty big list of things to do and he’s only one person. Before I found the S550 I had big plans for the fox and I was going to make it into something special but now that’s all going on the back burner for a while. My girlfriend had to go to the dealership for a recall on her car and when she was there she saw the mustang and sent me a picture of it and within 4 days the car was sitting in my driveway. I’ve wanted a coyote mustang for a while and since my former daily driver is basically done for I pulled the trigger on this one
 

sav22rem22

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So I finally got the car back. Not too happy with how things went. We decided not to replace the area where the seats sit and ended up just patching them and coating them nicely to prevent rust. All new brake and fuel lines. The area by the pedals on both sides where it was rusted through was cut out of a donor car and patched in and coated and sealed nicely as well. However that’s about where the good news ends. The subframe connectors were installed properly however he didn’t weld the little flat pieces of metal that are supposed to be welded onto the bend of the MM connectors.

I also haven’t gotten my floor pans back yet as our schedules have been so different. I plan on selling them since I didn’t use them. The day I picked the car up I noticed I had almost no brakes. I limped the car back home and brought it back to him the next day and he bled them again which brought some pedal feel back but it still feels like garbage. I know fox body brakes aren’t great to begin with but they weren’t this bad before. My clutch pedal also feels absolutely horrible now. I’m not sure if it had something to do with metal being cut near the pedal assembly and debris getting into it or what but it’s just so overly stiff now and does not feel linear and almost feels gritty.

On the way home from getting the car the second time I was a little more confident driving and it was raining so I had a little fun in the rain. However I noticed super irritating rattling noises coming from where the seats bolt into the subframe connectors or at least that’s where the general noise was. I also heard some indescribable noise that would come from somewhere behind me in the drivers rear wheel well that seemed to pop up when I ran through a puddle. It was a super loud whirring or almost like interference from a radio speaker but I don’t even have my radio hooked up at the moment. I also figured out that my windshield is leaking pretty bad at the base of it. I pulled the speaker grille off of the dash to check because water was starting to pool up again in the floor by the pedals. Sure enough where there’s this black butyl looking stuff on the inside of the windshield, there’s water seeping through. I have absolutely no idea what to do about that.

To top all of this off I wanted to take the car to work today to celebrate finally getting it back despite the fact that it’s still completely stripped on the inside including seat belts lol. However once I backed up into my turn around spot and went to pull forward and to the right I heard a super loud pop in the rear right side wheel area and the car stopped in its place and almost stalled. I got out to check and found nothing so I inched forward and now there’s a clicking noise coming from the rear right wheel. Could be coming from the drum brake. They were messed with quite a lot when the new lines were put on. It’s a rapid clicking that seems to speed up the faster I move. I have absolutely no idea what to do now and I did not expect the car to return with more issues than when I dropped it off.
 

JasonRP

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Don't lose steam man, you'll get it fixed up!
I suspect a lot of brake feel comes from the rear brakes and adjustment of them. If they were in there messin around with the e-brake cables and brake lines, this could be why? Sounds like you gotta take the drum off anyways- maybe a spring popped off or that little adjuster cable or something is all it is.

Also- are you still running the original equipment ratcheting clutch quadrant? If so, try pulling the clutch pedal all the way up, and then try the clutch again, see if that helps the clutch feel.. (if I'm not mistaken, that should adjust/reset the clutch quadrant pawl against the quadrant)

I had a car that leaked water from the windshield when it rained- I bet some guys have sealed theirs up with some caulking, but, for peace of mind, I had a windshield installer come out and install a new windshield. For the car I had this done on (a 2000 VW beetle that was my daughters) it cost 250 bucks. I hear they can remove the windshield, and if it doesn't break/crack when they take it out, they can clean it up, and re-seal/re-install it, and obviously it will cost you less as there's no windshield to buy.

I used the MM subframe connectors too- and the seats bolt through them, and through the floor and your seats, so, maybe they just left a seat bolt loose?
 
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90sickfox

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I hate reading stories like that. It makes me glad that I can do stuff myself.

Sounds drive your back brakes weren't installed right or the e brake cables are rubbing the tire.

The windshield will need to come out to get resealed correctly. Patching floors is ok as long as the surrounding metal is solid and the repair isn't sloppy.

Keep keeping on with the plan man. These road blocks don't last forever
 
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sav22rem22

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Don't lose steam man, you'll get it fixed up!
I suspect a lot of brake feel comes from the rear brakes and adjustment of them. If they were in there messin around with the e-brake cables and brake lines, this could be why? Sounds like you gotta take the drum off anyways- maybe a spring popped off or that little adjuster cable or something is all it is.

Also- are you still running the original equipment ratcheting clutch quadrant? If so, try pulling the clutch pedal all the way up, and then try the clutch again, see if that helps the clutch feel.. (if I'm not mistaken, that should adjust/reset the clutch quadrant pawl against the quadrant)

I had a car that leaked water from the windshield when it rained- I bet some guys have sealed theirs up with some caulking, but, for peace of mind, I had a windshield installer come out and install a new windshield. For the car I had this done on (a 2000 VW beetle that was my daughters) it cost 250 bucks. I hear they can remove the windshield, and if it doesn't break/crack when they take it out, they can clean it up, and re-seal/re-install it, and obviously it will cost you less as there's no windshield to buy.

I used the MM subframe connectors too- and the seats bolt through them, and through the floor and your seats, so, maybe they just left a seat bolt loose?
Yeah I definitely feel that has something to do with it. I’ll be taking the car over to a buddy’s on Sunday so I can take the rear drums apart and maybe bleed them all in the appropriate order once more to get the rest of my pedal feel back. I’m honestly not sure which quadrant is in the cad because the pedal rack assembly seems to be out of a 4 cylinder since the car was swapped to a manual. I do know however the car has a firewall adjuster. Given that I can fix the above issues I’ll be investing in a V8 pedal rack so that my feet aren’t smacking the clutch and brake at the same time and I’ll go ahead and swap out the quadrant and cable assembly as well.

As for the windshield I’m going to make sure no metal is rotted out around it before I go and get it all sealed up. I’d like to do it as professionally as possible. There’s also a leak in the floor pan that only happens when it’s raining and the car is moving and it’s where someone shoved a nail in between two seams. So I’m really hoping to get all the leaks sealed up. And I’m really hoping you’re right about just a seat bolt being loose. It looks like he may have used different hardware for the back seat bolts.

I appreciate the encouraging words. It definitely helps in a time like this
 

sav22rem22

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I hate reading stories like that. It makes me glad that I can do stuff myself.

Sounds drive your back brakes weren't installed right or the e brake cables are rubbing the tire.

The windshield will need to come out to get resealed correctly. Patching floors is ok as long as the surrounding metal is solid and the repair isn't sloppy.

Keep keeping on with the plan man. These road blocks don't last forever
I wish I had a nice little shop or even a concrete pad to work on my car. We have a gravel driveway that’s at an angle so I have to send my car off for anything that requires jackstands and it’s frustrating because of things like this.

I’m definitely going through the rear drums this Sunday and figuring out those weird noises.

I wonder exactly who I could get to remove and reseal the windshield? I’m not very familiar with the process and definitely wouldn’t want to attempt it myself

Yeah you’re right. I’ll get through this just like I’ve fought through other issues that I thought would be the end of the car. I’m just glad it’s running better than ever after the new fuel lines and it feels solid after the connectors. If I could just figure out the rest of the annoyances that were needlessly added onto my endless list of things to do lol
 

90sickfox

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There are tons of windshield installers in NC. The big names like safelite are usually more expensive. I think a windshield from them was around 280. Pulling one is almost impossible not to crack. Google installers in your area and pay attention to their reviews.

When I take one thing I expect to find 2 or 3 more things that need to be done. It's the only way I keep my sanity.

The sloped gravel driveway is a big problem when it comes to putting a car on Jack stands, I feel your pain.
 

sav22rem22

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Well I figured out what was causing the sound. The parking brake bar has been reduced to a twisted piece of metal and while it was rattling around it caused the pin and retainer clip holding on the right side shoe to bend and come off leaving the shoe able to flop around. Also the self adjuster fell out when I took the drum off and undid the top spring on the already loose shoe. I have absolutely no idea how something like this happens or how to avoid it happening again. I’m assuming it was negligence on the guy that was putting it back togethers part. I also had the wheel cylinder boot pop off because I had someone push on the brakes before I knew exactly what was going. I got it all back together but I’ll probably have to get another wheel cylinder. And another big brake bleed is in order after getting the parts in tomorrow. How fun. This is on the passenger side and most of the videos I watch show the drivers side being done. I’m honestly not sure what to do
 
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General karthief

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The bar was likely not placed correctly, it's Easley done if you don't check your work. Just replace anything that looks damaged along with the retainer springs that hold the shoes on, they don't take much abuse.
pull the opposite drum to make sure everything is correct on both sides.