ford 347 stroker with oil burning problem?

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Markus, Apr 17, 2004.

  1. I would like to insert a ford 347 stroker (#M6009B347). Ford use a 5.4 rod.
    Does Ford have a oil burning problem or is a street fighter from CHP with 5.315 rod the better solution?

  2. If the car isn't a daily driver, I don't think burning oil will be a big problem.

    I'm not sure how much of a problem it is any way. I know that you can avoid it with a 331, and there are other reasons to choose a 331, but a 347 crate motor straight from ford at a good price is a good reason for a 347.

    I think you could bolt that engine right in, just like a stock replacement short block and not even think about it besides checking the oil level a bit more often than normal.

    You might want to keep your rpm under 6,000 or so. The extra stroke and power has been known to break things at high rpm, but I think that crate engine has the sportsman block, so it's probably pretty durable.

    I think it's a good choice. It's probably a lot less money than a similar CHP block, and I think it might have a waranty, while I think the CHP's have none.
  3. @ 331cobra

    the car is not a daily driver. I drive nevertheless much. How much oil does the ford stroker need? I do not have a feeling about oil consumption.

  4. U should contact summit, who sells the ford 347, and ask them about it. 1-800-230-3030. TOLL FREE. The oil burning becomes a problem because the wrist pin intersects the lower oil control piston ring. Most companies now a days have fixed this problem, but I wouldnt know 100% about the Ford motor.
  5. Hey Markus, I see you're from Germany. I'll try to answer your questions as best I can, but only Ich spreche ein bisschen Deutsch. Oil burning is a problem that early 347's had (approximately 10 years ago) because the original "347 stroker" used a ground down 351 Cleveland crank and standard overbore pistons. For the past say 5 years or so, pistons have been designed with different wrist pin locations, oil support grooves, and other features to prevent oil consumption. My 347 stroker burns NO oil whatsoever. I am using the Eagle rotating assembly available from CHP or DSS are also good alternatives if you want a fully assembled short block. A 347 stroker will function with all of your stock parts, but to make good use of the extra cubic inches you're going to want bigger heads, more aggressive camshaft, an intake designed for higher RPMs, and other supporting hardware. As far as keeping the RPM's under 6000, feel free to rev that **** as high as you want. As long as it's built properly and balanced right you have nothing to fear. Oil consumption isn't something that occurs at high RPM's, it happens all the time with old or poorly made pistons. Ask whatever you want, I just got done with the whole 347 experience.
  6. Hi 67stang390,
    I drive approximately 7000 – 8000 miles per year. I don´t rev the engine over 6000 rpm. I look for a good stroker short block because the balancing is here in germany very expensive. The engine should be strong and the durability is very important.

    My other mods are AFR185 heads, GT40 intake, C&L 70mm MAF, 65 mm TB, Comp pro magnum 1.6 RR, E303, hooker comp long tubes, offroad h-pipe 2.5 inch, tremec TKO and 2.73 : 1 rearend

  7. Every 347 even made today burns oil unless you get the pistons that dont have the lower ring intersecting the wrist pin. Do a 5.315 rod and you wont burn oil. Also, dont get the Ford stroker engine because its crap. Its overpriced and I dont even think the pistons are forged, and there is no customizing it to your needs. If you call CHP or DSS they can get you whatever you want in your block for less than a Ford engine. Lastly, the Ford stroker I believe is like 10.3:1 comp. which means youll need the best gas at all times which can get pricey especially over in Europe.
  8. 347 rod and piston lenght

    so i have a 347 stroker and its a twin turbo setup, i had it setup and running and the ****ty keith black pistons that the guy had in there 4 broke so my question is, i have to change to a turbo piston and my rod size is 5.4 rod size so if i get new rods that are 3.315 in lenght what size piston do i get to make up the differance in rod lenght or could u explaine to me how this works ( sorry new to this engine building) thanks john
  9. if you are getting an engine that $12/hr day laborers assembled, then you might have an oil burning issue with a 1.1-1.09" C/H and 5.4" rod combo. however, if you have someone competent doing the machine work and assembly you will make more power with a 5.4 rod and good piston/ring package than you will with a 5.315 and 1.175/1.165 piston or a 331 for a given rpm range.

    if billy bob is building the engine, just get a 331, or better yet a 306 because they almost assemble themselves.