I HAVE A STOCK 40K 302 IN A 89 MUSTANG. LOOKING TO DO A CAM AND ROCKER UPGRADE. I AM LOOKING TO DO A E303 AND CRANE 1.7 PEDESTAL ROCKERS..WILL I HAVE VALVE CLEARENCE ISSUES? ALSO WILL I SEE A GAIN IN A 70MM THROTTLE BODY? IM LOOKING TO DO A COMBINATION ALL AT ONCE. DOES ANYONE KNOW A GOOD COMBO THAT ACTUALLY MAKES GOOD POWER?? ID LIKE TO USE STOCK HEADS AND I HAVE A COBRA INTAKE. IM NOT LOOKING FOR A 12SEC. CAR BUT JUST MAKE EXTRA POWER. ANY INFO IS APPRECIATED..THANKSFORD RACING E303 AND CRANE 1.7 ROCKERS
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I HAVE A STOCK 40K 302 IN A 89 MUSTANG. LOOKING TO DO A CAM AND ROCKER UPGRADE. I AM LOOKING TO DO A E303 AND CRANE 1.7 PEDESTAL ROCKERS..WILL I HAVE VALVE CLEARENCE ISSUES? ALSO WILL I SEE A GAIN IN A 70MM THROTTLE BODY? IM LOOKING TO DO A COMBINATION ALL AT ONCE. DOES ANYONE KNOW A GOOD COMBO THAT ACTUALLY MAKES GOOD POWER?? ID LIKE TO USE STOCK HEADS AND I HAVE A COBRA INTAKE. IM NOT LOOKING FOR A 12SEC. CAR BUT JUST MAKE EXTRA POWER. ANY INFO IS APPRECIATED..THANKS-
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StangItMan
Member
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Did same with stock rockers and stock manifold - enjoyed the sound and performance uprade / headers, of course.
Soon after Cobra Intake and 1.7's - again a positive outcome, which worked out even better with 24# injectors.
Daily driver, 5 speed car --- Have at it!
Did same with stock rockers and stock manifold - enjoyed the sound and performance uprade / headers, of course.
Soon after Cobra Intake and 1.7's - again a positive outcome, which worked out even better with 24# injectors.
Daily driver, 5 speed car --- Have at it!
88mouse
New Member
The cam is not worth the effort.
I ran a similar setup for a while. The cam Did little to nothing for power.
Besides stock valve springs either may not put up with the cam and rocker combo for long, or maybe even not at all.
I'd use the intake, tb, and rockers. But not waste my energy or gaskets on the cam.
And without heads, 24lb injectors will be too much.
Stock injectors will supply at least 275rwhp, and the combo you plan will be around 50rwhp short of that.
Save the cam for when you do heads. Only thing it will do for now is make the car sound mean at idle.
BTW, i'd also consider not using all capital letters, it's hard to read and eventually someone will come in here and say something nasty.
on the internet capitals=yelling
I ran a similar setup for a while. The cam Did little to nothing for power.
Besides stock valve springs either may not put up with the cam and rocker combo for long, or maybe even not at all.
I'd use the intake, tb, and rockers. But not waste my energy or gaskets on the cam.
And without heads, 24lb injectors will be too much.
Stock injectors will supply at least 275rwhp, and the combo you plan will be around 50rwhp short of that.
Save the cam for when you do heads. Only thing it will do for now is make the car sound mean at idle.
BTW, i'd also consider not using all capital letters, it's hard to read and eventually someone will come in here and say something nasty.
on the internet capitals=yelling
88mouse
New Member
The stock computer will be fine. Like 2000xp8 said you will need to change valve springs to. You can do it with the heads on the car. You can also do the cam swap with out having to pull the intake. I just done it all on my car.
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How did you keep the lifters from falling into the oil pan? magnets? Just curious because I had thought about doing a cam swap again this year but didn't want to strip it down to the long block again
How did you keep the lifters from falling into the oil pan? magnets? Just curious because I had thought about doing a cam swap again this year but didn't want to strip it down to the long block again
How did you keep the lifters from falling into the oil pan? magnets? Just curious because I had thought about doing a cam swap again this year but didn't want to strip it down to the long block again
You pull the lifters out BEFORE you pull the cam....
the pony boy
Founding Member
i think anderson sells a kit to change out cams with out removing the headsor intake. heres the link i found.
http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/
http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/
88mouse
New Member
How did you keep the lifters from falling into the oil pan? magnets? Just curious because I had thought about doing a cam swap again this year but didn't want to strip it down to the long block again
Yea AFM sell tappet tools to hold them up. You just have to pull the valve cover, rockers and push rods. Then use the tappet tools.
Here is another thread talking about them from a few weeks ago.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=7328104#post7328104
I agree with this. I ran the E-cam with stock heads and also with my Roush 180 heads, and in both cases I find the stock cam to be a better choice. If you want a little more, use 1.7's on the stock cam, that's what I'm doing.
Heck I just REMOVED my E303 and 1.6 rollers and put in a STOCK HO cam into my 98 Explorer Motor (in my Mustang) with a set of Crane 1.7's. The care idles SO much better and power.... well, I don't think I lost a freaking bit.
Heck even according to some Desktop Dyno software the HO made slightly more HP but less torque. I put in all the GT40P head flow data also and the software reports about what the car makes on the dyno, minus the drivetrain losses. So if it is telling the truth loosing a touch of torque on the low end can help with traction and picked up a few extra ponies in the process.
Now the GT40P heads run a smaller exhaust valve than usual but they have great port velocity and attributes that the E303 probably wasn't designed to take advantage of where pure luck puts the HO cam back in the game.
Why didnt I put the HO cam in to begin with? I just got the motor and pulled the Explorer cam and installed the E303. Never thought about the HO cam until I heard others doing it.
Honestly I don't go for all that rickty rick loping idle which seems to be more show than go anyway for a street car I drive 100 miles to work every day round trip. The cars that actually make power that demand that classic noisy idle don't get the 24-26 MPG I typically get and driving them 30K miles a year isn't practical for me.
Heck even according to some Desktop Dyno software the HO made slightly more HP but less torque. I put in all the GT40P head flow data also and the software reports about what the car makes on the dyno, minus the drivetrain losses. So if it is telling the truth loosing a touch of torque on the low end can help with traction and picked up a few extra ponies in the process.
Now the GT40P heads run a smaller exhaust valve than usual but they have great port velocity and attributes that the E303 probably wasn't designed to take advantage of where pure luck puts the HO cam back in the game.
Why didnt I put the HO cam in to begin with? I just got the motor and pulled the Explorer cam and installed the E303. Never thought about the HO cam until I heard others doing it.
Honestly I don't go for all that rickty rick loping idle which seems to be more show than go anyway for a street car I drive 100 miles to work every day round trip. The cars that actually make power that demand that classic noisy idle don't get the 24-26 MPG I typically get and driving them 30K miles a year isn't practical for me.
Read this link below. It will help you see some interesting things about the GT40P heads as well when compared to the others. Pay attention to A.U.C (area under the curve). I can get complete running Explorer GT40P engines from my local yards for $450! I own three of them. Oh and I always liked a good Centerforce clutch. Easy pedal operation and handles good power.
http://www.stangpro.com/HTML/ARTICLES/GT40P_FILES/GT40P1.HTM
NKau
Founding Member
the headers will fit, but you will be unable to put a wrench on the spark plugs. if you go with p heads you will need P-head specific headers.
The heads are part of a combo. If you are missing any piece of the combination the car won't be up to potential.
This is why i tell people, do it all at once, saves you time and gaskets.
Even if you have to save up a few more months it's worth it to do it one time only.
If you can find gt40x's cheap, they are good, but at full price of a grand, i would throw the extra 100 bucks in and get twisted wedges.
This is why i tell people, do it all at once, saves you time and gaskets.
Even if you have to save up a few more months it's worth it to do it one time only.
If you can find gt40x's cheap, they are good, but at full price of a grand, i would throw the extra 100 bucks in and get twisted wedges.
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