Ford Racing Z2363 Crate Engine Build

[2000xp8]

Checking LMR, it appears that a Gen 3 Coyote w/engine module and 6 speed trans is approx $1k more than the Z2363 + T-56. It's close, very close as I'm not including the required k member for the Coyote or the different exhaust.

I think that estimate is way short on the parts list. Accessories, Brackets, AC setup, power steering, cooling, hydroboost. I also don't think any swap goes perfectly to plan. Let's not forget that you are paying labor in this case. A shop would surely stick it to you financially for a swap as compared to doing and R&R on a pushrod engine.

A coyote swap at home with a used engine, i can see it. But paying for it with all new parts? I can't imagine that bill.

Personally, i like the route you are going. Look forward to seeing the results.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I kinda agree. Brand spanking new Yote on shop
Labor is a bill I don’t even want to think about.

I’ve done a basic budget on a used Gen 2 F150 yote and me doing the labor and even that is still $10-15k of parts.

 

[TOOLOW91]

Yup there is way more to swapping the yote .

If I was building another street sbf I’d hit up Zach at ZSR racing engines

 

[ThinBlue502]

When I put my opinion out there, I thought we were talking about a coyote swap done at home and purchasing a used motor. Transmission cost was mute because he said he’s purchasing a new one regardless of motor choice. So $10K to 15K….

 

[Mustang5L5]

Also gotta keep in mind there’s different levels of doing a yote swap.

There’s your basic junkyard f150 swap with manual steering, brakes, no wiper motor, no AC and half the dash guages don’t work. Everytime I hear of someone doing a yote swap for under $10k, this is usually what you have.

Then there’s you gen 2/3 mustang build with ac, PBH power steering, hydroboost, digital dash, all wiring and accessories working, with a tune and maybe a power adder on top of that. Even without the power adder that’s probably $15k in parts. The power steering kit alone is probably $1k and it cost me almost $1k to convert my car to Hydroboost. Add another $1k fot the AC kit. It’s not cheap and adds up fast.

 

[Habu135]

Also gotta keep in mind there’s different levels of doing a yote swap.

There’s your basic junkyard f150 swap with manual steering, brakes, no wiper motor, no AC and half the dash guages don’t work. Everytime I hear of someone doing a yote swap for under $10k, this is usually what you have.

Then there’s you gen 2/3 mustang build with ac, power steering, hydroboost with PBH kit, digital dash, all wiring and accessories working, with a tune and maybe a power adder on top of that. Even without the power adder that’s probably $15k in parts. The power steering kit alone is probably $1k and it cost me almost $1k to convert my car to Hydroboost. Add another $1k fot the AC kit. It’s not cheap and adds up fast.

I'm sure there's a few unlucky souls out there who thought they were buying a Gen 2 and learned after installation that they actually got a Gen 1.

I'll be fine with a Z2363. 440'ish horsepower. I'm even keeping my live axle. If I wanted insanity I'd hunt down a '20 Kona Blue GT350 with no stripes and just admire it.

 

[Habu135]

Looks like my lower Trick Flow "Street Burner" intake is the same as the lower R-Series which should cut my intake price in half as well as eliminate the need to buy new sensors since I'll just reuse it. So simple swap out of injectors and bolt on the upper.

Coordinated with BBK yesterday. And it begins.

 

[96pushrod]

Looks like my lower Trick Flow "Street Burner" intake is the same as the lower R-Series which should cut my intake price in half as well as eliminate the need to buy new sensors since I'll just reuse it. So simple swap out of injectors and bolt on the upper.

Coordinated with BBK yesterday. And it begins.

They are not the same lower.

 

[TOOLOW91]

Looks like my lower Trick Flow "Street Burner" intake is the same as the lower R-Series which should cut my intake price in half as well as eliminate the need to buy new sensors since I'll just reuse it. So simple swap out of injectors and bolt on the upper.

Coordinated with BBK yesterday. And it begins.

They are not the same , the port size is definitely larger . The r and box r share the same lower

 

[Habu135]

Finally getting back into this project by purchasing the PA Performance mini-PMGR starter (#1806). My daily driver with 182k miles decided to die and my priorities changed. Adapt, overcome and all that.

 

[ThinBlue502]

I hope t

Finally getting back into this project by purchasing the PA Performance mini-PMGR starter (#1806). My daily driver with 182k miles decided to die and my priorities changed. Adapt, overcome and all that.

I hope you evaluated, first.

 

[Habu135]

I hope t

I hope you evaluated, first.

It's a line from Heartbreak Ridge.

 

[ThinBlue502]

Whoops, wrong thread sorry.

 

[ThinBlue502]

It's a line from Heartbreak Ridge.

It’s a line from the United States Marine Corps my man. Depending on who you ask they may have said Improvise.

 

[bluestang347]

Have you received your engine? I just ordered a z2363 and a performance automatic 4R70W street smart kit to back it up.

 

[Habu135]

Have you received your engine? I just ordered a z2363 and a performance automatic 4R70W street smart kit to back it up.

I haven't ordered it yet. I'm going through the miscellaneous small items and have an estimated arrival date of May for the intake and exhaust. My 180k mile daily drive also decided to die, so I've been throwing everything at that to quickly pay it off.

Summit Racing does price matching and free shipping.

Why did you go with the auto?

 

[bluestang347]

I haven't ordered it yet. I'm going through the miscellaneous small items and have an estimated arrival date of May for the intake and exhaust. My 180k mile daily drive also decided to die, so I've been throwing everything at that to quickly pay it off.

Summit Racing does price matching and free shipping.

Why did you go with the auto?

The first foxbody I owned was a manual drag car I started building at 15 with my father. I sold that car while I was in college. Fast forward 20 years and I am now building this car as something to do with him and go to car shows. He was in a motorcycle wreck about 12 years ago and has nerve damage in his lower back and legs. I want him to be able to drive the car and enjoy it so I am going auto. I ordered a lokar bump shifter to go with it. I have actually been considering changing my order to their super comp trans with manual valve body and transbrake.

Did you figure out your long tubes? I saw an article on the car Our Dream Auto built with the frpp z2363 and they used hooker long tubes. Im glad I found this thread and the research yall have already done.

I am actually hoping to get my car up to our dream auto to work on the body and paint for me. So far I havent gotten a response but everyone is booked out like a year plus. I am really striking out trying to find a good shop to fix the frame rail and strut tower rust I have on the drivers side.

Frpp Z2363
Performance automatic 4r70w street smart pass45206
Lokar sport smart shifter
Maximum motorsports k member and control arms

 

[Habu135]

The first foxbody I owned was a manual drag car I started building at 15 with my father. I sold that car while I was in college. Fast forward 20 years and I am now building this car as something to do with him and go to car shows. He was in a motorcycle wreck about 12 years ago and has nerve damage in his lower back and legs. I want him to be able to drive the car and enjoy it so I am going auto. I ordered a lokar bump shifter to go with it. I have actually been considering changing my order to their super comp trans with manual valve body and transbrake.

Did you figure out your long tubes? I saw an article on the car Our Dream Auto built with the frpp z2363 and they used hooker long tubes. Im glad I found this thread and the research yall have already done.

I am actually hoping to get my car up to our dream auto to work on the body and paint for me. So far I havent gotten a response but everyone is booked out like a year plus. I am really striking out trying to find a good shop to fix the frame rail and strut tower rust I have on the drivers side.

Frpp Z2363
Performance automatic 4r70w street smart pass45206
Lokar sport smart shifter
Maximum motorsports k member and control arms

Awesome. Family definitely matters.

Hooker Headers no longer exist. I also emailed Dream Auto to ask about their build, but didn't receive a response.

My research led me to find that the Z2363 heads are standard Ford 302 dimensions. Meaning any traditional exhaust manifold for the Fox Body 302 will work. If you review the Ford Racing Z2363 description it references this at the bottom of the page. Additionally, I spoke with BBK and they confirmed that they're familiar with this engine. I elected to go with the BBK 17/8", but they too are on back order.

I'll continue to update my build list if things change, but as of now it is current and accurate regarding compatability with the engine and overall build goal.

 

[bluestang347]

Awesome. Family definitely matters.

Hooker Headers no longer exist. I also emailed Dream Auto to ask about their build, but didn't receive a response.

My research led me to find that the Z2363 heads are standard Ford 302 dimensions. Meaning any traditional exhaust manifold for the Fox Body 302 will work. If you review the Ford Racing Z2363 description it references this at the bottom of the page. Additionally, I spoke with BBK and they confirmed that they're familiar with this engine. I elected to go with the BBK 17/8", but they too are on back order.

I'll continue to update my build list if things change, but as of now it is current and accurate regarding compatability with the engine and overall build goal.

Awesome info. I appreciate you sharing what you have learned and I will try to do the same.

 

[bluestang347]

My engine is supposed to ship this Tuesday but I'm about to fix the frame rail so it will be a couple weeks before it is in. I'll post some photos when it arrives.