Ford Racing Z2363 Crate Engine Build

[General karthief]

FYI, a lot of the sensors and such that LMR sells is parts-store brand sensors that LMR marks up. You might be able to save 50% by just going to your local autozone or bulk-ordering it from Rockauto.

Of course, in the grand scheme of things, it will save you 0.001% of what you are spending

I've said it before, I don't understand why buy common parts, sensors, senders, gaskets and such, from LRS or any 'speed/restoration ' place, if you're spending that kind of money you should spend some time researching price of parts, save a few dollars here, a few dollars there, it will add up.
Senders/sensors
LRS $60+
Rockauto $40 + shipping
there are discount codes with rockauto that most times cover the shipping,
you are spending a lot of money, shop smart.
Just an opinion from a grumpy old man

 

[Habu135]

I've said it before, I don't understand why buy common parts, sensors, senders, gaskets and such, from LRS or any 'speed/restoration ' place, if you're spending that kind of money you should spend some time researching price of parts, save a few dollars here, a few dollars there, it will add up.
Senders/sensors
LRS $60+
Rockauto $40 + shipping
there are discount codes with rockauto that most times cover the shipping,
you are spending a lot of money, shop smart.
Just an opinion from a grumpy old man

I completely agree. I'll go into this build with confidence now though that I have the right parts AND all the required parts.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Look at national parts depot as well for parts. They have a TON of original parts for these cars.

 

[Habu135]

How about you guys chop it up regarding the 2.66 versus 2.97 first gear T-56?

 

[General karthief]

That can get pretty deep.
Rear gear ratio, tire height.
Above my pay grade but I would think in a street car, driving to the local shake shop it won't matter.

 

[Habu135]

Hum-bug. The first three gears vary between the two trans.

3.73 rear gear. 255/40/17 tires. Can't recall the official ride hight.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Will your engine favor low end torque, or high end HP? Street driving, or track duty? Sticky tires, or street tires.


That question deserves a thread of its own.

 

[Habu135]

Will your engine favor low end torque, or high end HP? Street driving, or track duty? Sticky tires, or street tires.


That question deserves a thread of its own.

We're talking about this application. 95% street driven with some spirited excursions in the surrounding mountains.

 

[mikestang63]

I've said it before, I don't understand why buy common parts, sensors, senders, gaskets and sucharket , from LRS or any 'speed/restoration ' place, if you're spending that kind of money you should spend some time researching price of parts, save a few dollars here, a few dollars there, it will add up.
Senders/sensors
LRS $60+
Rockauto $40 + shipping
there are discount codes with rockauto that most times cover the shipping,
you are spending a lot of money, shop smart.
Just an opinion from a grumpy old man

this may dound crazy but i would rather install used FORD OEM working sensors than most new store brand ones. When I go to the JY i make sure to pull the IAT, ECT, TPS, starter solenoids and other do dads. IMO they work better and last longer and are dirt cheap. Same for water pump bolts, pulleys, brackets, window motors, door poppers, interior switches. distributors, TFI;s harnesses etc. these cars are 30 + years old and you will need to have backup/replacement parts around as they ain't cheap anymore.

 

[Mustang5L5]

2.66 would be my vote then with 3.73s out back. More manageable for street driving and I think you will have the power for it, as well as being in a lighter car.

 

[Habu135]

2.66 would be my vote then with 3.73s out back. More manageable for street driving and I think you will have the power for it, as well as being in a lighter car.

I'm leaning that way as well. First gear roll out is fairly short as is.

 

[96pushrod]

3.73. Nitto 555R for now. I'll see how bad it is.

I would like some input on the 2.66 versus 2.97 T-56. The transmissions differ throughout the first three gears.

I was more wondering about the actual size of the tire, because a 2.9X first gear feels a whole lot different whether it’s a 26in or a 28in rear tire, with decently low rear gear.

I’d probably just recommend the 2.66 first gear trans. If you look at modern driveline they also have the wide and close ratio transmissions, but you can choose different overdrive ratios which is nice.

 

[Habu135]

I was more wondering about the actual size of the tire, because a 2.9X first gear feels a whole lot different whether it’s a 26in or a 28in rear tire, with decently low rear gear.

I’d probably just recommend the 2.66 first gear trans. If you look at modern driveline they also have the wide and close ratio transmissions, but you can choose different overdrive ratios which is nice.

Just measured it. 24" height

Remember, it's a 255/40/17

 

[96pushrod]

Just measured it. 24" height

Remember, it's a 255/40/17

That’s a 25in tire on paper, which will be better with the taller first gear.

Not like it really matters as neither one would hook with those tires very well

 

[Habu135]

LMR raised the price of the Z2363 Crate Engine from $10,499 to $11,699. Yeesh

 

[ThinBlue502]

Just playing devils advocate…

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

I'm just not seeing the value in this engine. 12k for a longblock for a street car? You can get a dart based 331 shortblock from CNC Motorsport for $5200ish. Set of AFR 185s for $1800. Throw in another 1k for misc and you're well under the price of the 363. Just looking from a different view.

 

[mikestang63]

i bet Woody can build a motor for less that performs better with better parts

 

[96pushrod]

An

i bet Woody can build a motor for less that performs better with better parts

Absolutely true, but the only drawback with him right now is the wait time.

 

[Habu135]

I met with my mechanic last week and we spoke tentatively about a mid April car drop off which means I would have to start buying parts fairly soon due to logistic (supply chain) challenges.

I appreciate the push toward a Coyote (modular) based engine. Honestly, it would be easier in the long run due to CARB compliance and room for growth, but I feel the draw to keep the car pushrod based and want a build it and drive it car. The coyote swap is a whole thing with adapting a modern engine to a mid 1970s design, and I don't have the patience anymore after two years to resolve long standing bugs.

Checking LMR, it appears that a Gen 3 Coyote w/engine module and 6 speed trans is approx $1k more than the Z2363 + T-56. It's close, very close as I'm not including the required k member for the Coyote or the different exhaust.