Foxbody Suspension

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Jeremy45714, Sep 2, 2013.

  1. I've got a 1992 mustang gt coupe. Looking to upgrade all of what I can as it is all OE. I got $1300-2000 to spend I was thinking strange or ebaich struts and shocks possibly tokico. Bbk upper/lower control arms. Eibach sway bars and springs as well. I'm not in the mood to do coil overs I also suspect ill buy the bilstein quads due to there stiffness. What do u all think will that give me something to work with??? Or other combos of parts that will set it up better for the mobey? I seen to ilia 16-way adjust but were pretty pricey and didn't have any feed back... Any help is appreciated I don't want to cut and weld unless I have to was hoping to not have to weld to have decent gear under there.,but I will if I have to and if someone lists parts+prices for coilovers?? And what tools will be needed to do coilovers.... So many options but anything would be an upgrade with what I got currently. Thanks in advace
    #1 Jeremy45714, Sep 2, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2013
  2. If your replacing the factory rear uppers and lowers there is probably no need to install new quad shocks. You can just loose them.
  3. What is your goal and purpose for the car? Street, Strip, autocross? what tires/rims..

    First thing to do is weld up your torque boxes and fortify them with battle boxes, and install a set of MM full length subframe connectors.
  4. Will be street, I have 255/ 50/ r16 on the back and 245/50/r16 on the front and the 4-lug pony rims, yes "brake conversion" is in the future, but that will be 3 semesters from now, I am building this car, while taking an auto technician associate degree course, I want this car done in two years, and i figured suspension was the first place to start.
    #5 Jeremy45714, Sep 2, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2013
  5. well if its mostly going to be street only I would do full length SF connectors, upper control arms, weight jacker lower control arms, front coil over conversion, shocks/ struts all round and a bumpsteer kit.

    Sf- 145 urp
    adjust uppers- 210 steeda
    adjust lowers- 380 urp
    coil over kit- 375 urp
    shocks/struts- 310 urp
    bumpsteer- 150 urp

    total- 1570 plus shipping
  6. A
    Are subframe connectors bolt on or need welded as I do not currently have a welder? And as I also mentioned I read that doing "coilover" was going to involve other work such as camber plates and possible spindle issues? That I did not want to get into.

    I'm looking for the best possible combo with leaving the initial setup stock. I don't wanna weld but am happy to replace the OE stuff with top of the line components. Don't really wanna screw with kmember or sf connectors until maybe next year. I will be buying a welder "currently working on my associates for automotive tech" but right now wanting u/g without welding. Any more help appreciated
  7. Subframe connectors should be your first thing to add on, no the last. Bolt on subs are pointless. Any flex will rip them out. You want to bring them to someone that knows how to do the job right, or they can weld them in improperly and screw the way your car sits and handles. The car needs to be loaded on the weight of the tires and square.

    Go to the MM site and read up on coilovers. If you have the money, I'd recommend doing that route and be done with it. If you are going to be lowering your car, CC are necessary regardless. You do not need to correct the K member or spindles.

    Like I said earlier, the first thing to do is stiffen the existing chassis by welding up the torque boxes, adding subs, and then go from there with a quality set of rear lower control arms and poly rear upper control arm and front/rear/sway bar bushings. If you want the stock quality ride but lowered, just cut 1/2 a coil from the stock springs. Aftermarket springs will produce a harsher ride. For shocks, if you want a good quality set that are budget friendly, Tokico blues.
  8. sf connectors are extremely important to the fox chases due to excessive flex which can cause all sorts of issues.
  9. you can literally spend 10k on suspension and not be done.
  10. There is so much truth in this. When I got the SFC's installed on my 91, I could tell immediately as I was pulling away from the shop that the car was different. It felt a lot better, despite the stock 150K mile suspension.
  11. I would do sub frames, jacking rails, interconnecting web frame members (e.g. Stifflers FIT), K member brace, and strut tower brace before I did any other suspension modifications. Next would be stiffer bushings everywhere in the suspension (it's easier to buy new control arms with bushings installed). You'll be amazed at the difference.
  12. ^^^ What he said.

    Investing in expensive dampeners (i.e. Bilstein shocks/ struts) would be wasted money w/ absolutely no gain until you make the necessary modifications to the chassis/suspension mount points.
    Understand that in order to have a truly rigid unibody, have to tie front and rear subframes together,..and bolting them together is not the ideal solution. If you have a garage,..I'd take part of that money,..and buy a 110 mig. (299-349) and learn to use it. It'll be with you for about a bazillion years, and after you learn how to peel a bannana, you can move on to welding decently w/ one.
    Be advised, might wanna ride in a friends car that has similar modifications to what you aspire to doing. (for a few hours at least) Make sure he finds the crappiest roads to drive over,..and turns into the most driveways where they involve going up a hill. You'll learn real quick what type of ride harshness to expect as a result of those mods.

    Then get back in your stocker,..and compare the two.

    If you think you can live w/ it everyday,..then go for your chassis/suspension mods as planned. (after you do the requisite chassis stiffening that everybody else is recommending)
    krazedstang likes this.
  13. Luckily I can weld already, worked 4 years building coal trailers in the hills of west virginia. I have put together a list of components, "please feel free to correct me" cost vs handling etc, if you see errors where i could make up the difference with a better component and not go over my limit of $2,000.
    MM full length subframe connector on MM website--$153
    Wild ride battle box kit for torque boxes on ebay--$90
    Lincoln 120v mig on amazon--------------------$348
    Upr control arms upper/lower set on ebay--------$260
    tokico D spec adjustable on American muscle--$560
    ------Grand TOTAL---------------------------------$1,411 shipping on all prices incl.
    My budget is $2,000 anything i could do better here? For street remember, don't care about drag stuff. I plan on having around 400hp after next semester in school. But taking care of suspension first. So where can i put this other $600 remaining to get the best handling versus cost? Anything is up in the air when it comes to everything except the welder, sfc, and torque box upgrade, because i feel those are pretty much gonna do the job efficiently, and at a damn good price compared to other options.

    Read over MM sfc and i can see it would be a better buy "corrected thanks mikestang63" it was only $7 more than the upr sfc and says its stronger so ill go with it.
    #15 Jeremy45714, Sep 4, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2013
  14. For $20 more get the MM subs. They are thicker and install with no problems. Same for the lower control arms.. The MM are more expensive but well worth it. For the uppers, you can stick with the stock units and replace the bushings with poly, For the shocks and struts, the Tokico's are a great piece, but I bet for a few dollars more you can get a nice set coil over setup that you will find much better if you shop around.

    I would give Jarrod at LMRS a call and ask him about prices, Remember, you get a 5% discount as a stangnet member. Also, be sure to check the boards and CL for deals on parts. Many people including myself are often able to buy parts at significant discounts to new. Case in point, I just bought a new set of Tokico front blues for $150 on CL and a new Champion alum radiator for $100. In this economy there are deals out there.
  15. I just had the front struts done with Tokico blues. Good middle of the road one :nice: Took a couple weeks for them to settle back down.
  16. which mm lower control arm the adjustable ones? are they that much of a difference they are $380 just for the 2??
  17. You are going to want some poly bushings up front, to get rid of play.
  18. best place to find bushings?