Build Thread Frankenstang- Eaton M112 5.0 - Ice cold AC and 11PSI

a91what

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#1
Welcome to my laboratory from this point forward is the m90 portion of the experiment. To jump ahead to my M112 install use this link.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...-install-installing-the-blower.884767/page-66

Enjoy






Hi all I have been away for a while working on family stuff. Well I am now bringing an old build idea back from the dead, M90 5.0.... I have already mounted the charger and am working on the inlet and outlet adapters. This will be side mounted on the driver side, battery relocated and coil/solenoid as well. My plan calls for a large fmi. Right now my biggest issue is the maf sensor. The car is setup for a 90mm lmaf.. I'm not sure whether to draw thru blow thru or just megasquirt the car and do away with it.... keep in mind my budget for this build is 1k. The charger was 250. Fmi kit was 200. So I have 550 to play with.
Comments concerns ideas. Thanks.
 

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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#2
Back from the dead it is.... I'd use a blow through slot style maf. I bought a lightening m112 to install on an older project. Guy stopped making intake (disappeared) ... So I've got this rebuilt supercharger and no way to put on the car.
 

a91what

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#3
Alex has a great thread on all the do and don't for an m112 setup
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#4
Yup...joey was the name....figured one day I'd get around to making a kit with an air to water intercooler. I'm also familiar with Alex's thread. Very cool stuff. I liked the idea of it sitting on top of the motor better.... That way I could keep my a/c.
 

a91what

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#5
My ac was deleted anyway so there it went. I got the inlet fabbed up today, took and hacked the original to pieces and rearranged the parts mated to 3" pipe. Looks pretty good and ported out nicely. I am more of a grinder than a welder, I only have mig for aluminum so all the extra metal has to come off. A skim coat of jb weld will ensure no pinholes as this won't be seeing any boost. Pics tomorrow
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#6
JB Weld works miracles. Lol. My motor now puts out about 425 on a Mexican block... When I build my 393 I'll get back into trying to make the Eaton work. The motor I have was built for a power adder but I guess I out did myself. Should've bought an aftermarket block....you live and learn. smh.
 

a91what

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I am hoping for 325ish to the tires. And loads of torque.. it's a convertible so the extra grunt will be nice. If nothing else it will be unique. I don't think that number Is to far out of reach the motor is built already.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#8
I had to put my Vert to rest....I went to fix some rust in the strut towers and found stress cracks all over the passenger side. She was too sick to save.smh I had a 10 point cage and full length subframe connectors but I guess it wasn't enough for what I was doing. Was just about to order spider braces from stifflers.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#9
8e030f712e1b1bbea3af514ac2e531d3.jpg
 

a91what

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OK so progress has been rather stagnent, work is crazy 14 hr days are a norm when mosaic wants there plant back up and running. They loose something around 1 million an hour when it's down, anyhooo here is a small update. I removed some more clutter in the engine bay and am trying to decide whether my El cheapo oil catch can will stay or not. Also any ideas on how to route the pipe for the cold side would be appreciated I'm trying to keep the tower brace. There is just not enough room behind the engine, I have about 4.5 inches of room between the hood and the intake.
1433456030029-1663891136.jpg
 

a91what

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#12
Oh and here is the adapter for the cold side of the charger. (I have about an hour of practice with aluminum mig, it lays down a lot of material before you get good penetration.)
14334565107741508418983.jpg
1433456562526528961122.jpg
 

a91what

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OK so today I started building the hat for the charger. It's coming along well enough it may change a few times before it's done. This one is steel so I was able to try out my cheapo tig welder, I cut the pipe in half so it's not just a box with a pipe.
 

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a91what

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OK so the hat is done!:nice: it took one try too (I know amazing considering my newb skills with the tig) I don't have a foot pedal so sometimes the heat was a little high, I warped the flange ever so slightly nothing a little time on a belt sander won't fix:rolleyes:.
20150607_153922.jpg
20150607_153947.jpg
 

a91what

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So now that inlet and hat are complete I just need some ideas on how to route the piping... this is my first forced induction build so any comments are welcome! thanks
 

a91what

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OK so big question will the throttle body be OK in the stock position??? I was planning on running it this way but now that I have a feel for welding to aluminum should I consider moving the tb before the charger?
Also, the inlet plenum for the charger is pieced together from the old parts. The flange is sort of "bull nosed" on the inside of the plenum there is not enough material on the flange to get a decent radius. Should I leave it as is OR epoxy the inside to build up a smooth flow path??? Any issues with epoxy inside the plenum?
 

a91what

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Epoxy in the plenum?... and does anyone know if there is a larger crank pulley I can get for this cheap? I need to overdrive the charger a little more to get into the optimum boost range for its map. I already have a over drive pulley on the charger. Thanks
 

a91what

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#19
Thanks! I just got some parts in last night once I do some fitment I will post more pics for aesthetic review. :nice: