Build Thread Frankenstang- Eaton M112 5.0 - Ice cold AC and 11PSI

What bearing do you think failed?

  • Rod Bearings

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Cam Bearings

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Just the Thrust Bearing

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    4

a91what

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I noticed the same thing actually. The speedometer is calibrated but it does not keep up with the car... I am breaking before it starts to register correctly. 3.08 gears make the pulls long.

I realized today at work that I have no idea if the timing is correct.... I never verified it.
 
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a91what

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Lets talk AC conversion kits for a few minutes.. LMR used to have a complete kit with the sanden style pump, I do not see it on the website anymore. After looking around on the net i see a few places i can get the pump with lines accumulator ECT.. only thing they are missing are the evap and condensor. I actually have a brand new EVAP core in a box on the shelf... So I guess what i am looking for are recommendations on brands.
 

krazedstang

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Pffft....

The ONLY reason you think Anne Arbor Mi. Is nice is because it's August........

Go back there in February.

Any point north of Kansas City ( to include Kansas City) is frozen hell on Earth for 8 months out of the year.

The only places I would ever consider living in where they have a Winter all have mountains, and they're all west of the Mississippi.

Call me crazy but I enjoy the winter months here up near Chicago.
 

RaggedGT

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Lets talk AC conversion kits for a few minutes.. LMR used to have a complete kit with the sanden style pump, I do not see it on the website anymore. After looking around on the net i see a few places i can get the pump with lines accumulator ECT.. only thing they are missing are the evap and condensor. I actually have a brand new EVAP core in a box on the shelf... So I guess what i am looking for are recommendations on brands.
GPD-Denso-Delco are all good manufacturers
 

a91what

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I have finally made a decision!! I will be buying all the parts needed to install AC on my car, which will make it usable during these summer months. Should have the parts within the next week or so, this will require the pulling of the dash to do the install as well.... then a small re-tune on some idle settings when the AC is on.

I am excited.

The money i am saving on the AC system parts by buying them local [discount code] will be used to purchase a modular pulley system for the blower....

:rock:oh yeah

i wonder what 15 psi is going to pull like.
 

a91what

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I went with the 2.8" pulley so i dont have to machine the blower snout. that should net me a total of around 13psi with the 6.625 crank pulley i will be adding.

pulley cost =$99

the look on my face as i lay into 13psi = priceless
 

CarMichael Angelo

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I went with the 2.8" pulley so i dont have to machine the blower snout. that should net me a total of around 13psi with the 6.625 crank pulley i will be adding.

pulley cost =$99

the look on my face as i lay into 13psi = priceless
Cmon now Steve......

Aren't you forgetting something?.......Something essential when calculating potential power from a ford 5.0?

Like.....math and physics?

Let me refresh your memory...


Too much of this.....


megan-racing-version-2-boost-gauge-MR-MG-TURBO-night-500x500.jpg

Equals one big one of these:
c7be20dae70bbefbda5df6afd654156d.jpg

Only without the pretty pyrotechnics...
 

a91what

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Well Mike i am basing my boost math off of a online calculator that seems to be fairly accurate, I will be pulling gobs of timing while under this very high boost level. Then i will hit the dyno and do some pulls to get my very achievable goal of 400/400 at the tire. The nice thing about these modular pulleys is i can swap the pulley size in minutes with no pressing the hub on and off.
I will have a few different boost combinations.... if i purchase a 3.1" pulley as well as the 2.8..
Crank pulley size / Blower pulley size = drive ratio = boost level
6/3.2= 1.8 = 6psi
6/2.8= 2.14= 9.5psi
6.625/ 3.2= 2.07= 8.5 psi
6.625/2.8= 2.366= 13psi
 

a91what

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Well I'm stuck on I4 waiting for a tow truck.... managed to break the clutch cable, or the outer jacket collapsed is what actually happened.
I was wondering why I had to keep adjusting the clutch....
 

95BlueStallion

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Stock cable for the win. I broke an adjustable cable once. Went back to my 100k mile atock cable with a FWA and never had a problem from then until I sold the car a couple years later.
 

90sickfox

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You don't need a clutch to drive a mustang. I drove from Georgia to maryland without one because of an aftermarket cable and stock quadrant.
 

stanglx2002

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I have broken 3 adjustable clutch cables... Time to go with the stock style cable from MM
 

stangboy

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Just like everybody else said, stock clutch cable w/ a FWA and pretty much any aftermarket quadrant is all you need. Also, I have broken a couple cables in my day and it never stopped me from driving home. Just start the car in first gear and when you're ready to shift just put pressure on the shifter and let off the gas. At a certain point in the rpms it'll come out of that gear and go into the next around that same rpm. You just can't downshift of course.
 

jrichker

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Well I'm stuck on I4 waiting for a tow truck.... managed to break the clutch cable, or the outer jacket collapsed is what actually happened.
I was wondering why I had to keep adjusting the clutch....
Been there and done the exact same thing....


Clutch cable failure
About every 3-4 days I had to adjust the clutch cable. It seemed to lose adjustment and the transmission wouldn't go into gear. Since it was an adjustable cable, I thought that it might be stretched so I bought a replacement. Good idea, but not because the cable was stretched...





?temp_hash=15df5a6761cc9ef46ef52a40408d68c4%20.jpg


I have never seen a cable fail in this manner. It was a Ford Racing part, so I wasn't expecting to see this.

While I was at it, I fixed the problem of the firewall adjuster being difficult to turn. I added a roller thrust bearing to the adjuster. Now it is easy to turn and since the adjuster has click stops built into it, there is no worry about it moving without me turning it. It cost about $8 plus the shipping.



Use some wheel bearing grease on the meal races where they face the bearing. Then apply some to the nylon sleeve where it fits into the adjuster. This keeps everything lubed up and moving freely when you turn the adjuster. The wheel bearing grease won't melt or wash out due to the heat and moisture in the engine compartment.
www.mscdirect.com was the source for the parts
03380920 1 each 0.750X1.250X0.078 THRUST CAGE-NEEDLE ASSEMB
03381092 2 each 0.750X1.250X0.032 THRUST WASHER-NEEDLE-FLAT
 

a91what

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I will be picking my new clutch cable up at 10am tomorrow..... after i climb on the roof for about an hour and finish up the last row of screws that need replacing... I have to remember to grab a new belt for the lawnmower while im in town.

I will then go ahead and do the first oil change i think.... Then put the big crank pulley on the car..... then go do 9-10 psi pulls and see how those feel.
 

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